Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good price for a rebuilt R33.

who rebuilt it?

and what brand parts were used for pistons, rods, bolts/studs, bearings etc?

any receipts and details of the rebuild?

Was the new stock turbo direct from Nissan?

what did they charge for that?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206539-delete-topic/#findComment-3659344
Share on other sites

yeh gtst i was thinking it was a bit cheap!! how much you rekon i sell it for?? this motor is fresh like i say and got a long life ahead of it.. do u have any intrest gtst??? or just pooching my topic..

dw about what workshop... gtst you have been reading all my posts havnt you and want to no where i got my rebuild done not telling but happy to tell buyer as would be better to keep going there for tuning

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206539-delete-topic/#findComment-3666403
Share on other sites

lol... I was just asking questions.

was I rude in any way?

I don't think I ruined your thread at all.

I don't see why you can't say.

Yes. I have receipts from Nissan Parts department for new pistons, rings, rods, bearings, gaskets, turbo, water pump, oil pump, tensioner, timing belt all totaling $xxxx

and

Yes, I have a receipt from workshop xyz for the assembly of the engine and puting it back in the car all for $xxxx

all this work was done at xxxxxx kms and the car now has yyyyyy kms.

I was simply asking for details of what you had already stated.

why would you not openly state the workshop that did the work if you are recommending that the next owner goes to this shop.

obviously you are happy with them.

If you think that I have said something wrong on this thread, then please PM Blitz. he is a moderator on these forums and will remove my post if he believes that I have broken the rules.

krzysiu - I agree.. I start shit. but show me where I've done that on this thread.

I only asked simple questions like saying "got any pics"

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206539-delete-topic/#findComment-3666984
Share on other sites

Dont mind GTST, he isnt interested in the car. He is like the forum wanker, starts shit regardless on every thread he can.

yeh ino his a goose

Edited by rich flavour
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206539-delete-topic/#findComment-3668144
Share on other sites

I reckon GTST had a fair enough question. Might have been interested myself if rich flavour was willing to be open about where the work was done. :thumbsup:

Oh well, good luck with the sale ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206539-delete-topic/#findComment-3668834
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • She swallowed the spider to catch the fly.
    • Half anticipating the next question then: I have two magnets stuck in my oil pan. What should I do? 
    • If it's magnetic what is stopping you from using a magnet on a thin wire from fishing it out?
    • Those 2 solenoids in that assembly I mention, are the PWM solenoids for torque converter lock-up clutch & EPC (line pressure control) ~ when most folks hear of 'solenoid failure', the tendency is to think electrical failure...but fact of the matter is, especially wrt the EPC solenoid (which is moving/running all the time), you can have an electrically 'good' solenoid, that's absolutely broken/worn out mechanically inside...ie; valve plunger return spring rubbing against spring retainer plate, lowering preload pressure.. ...and the solenoid armature extension limit spring wafer with bad wear/broken off petals... ...and if there's ever been any metal flying about, damage to the valve plunger end itself... ...the stuff one never really sees, unless you go the whole 10yards trying to answer the question "why is my line pressure screwy, but TCU isn't flagging any EPC solenoid fault?"...and carefully dissect the solenoid. Worst (and most probable) scenario is when the plate spring petals break off, they get held by the magnetic flux, get mashed up by the armature into little bits, which end up in the space between the armature & shading core bore, and things get stuck or randomly jam up, and your line pressure goes flat and doesn't change...and the TCU never sees it, as it doesn't actively monitor LP... ..then it gets into insidious land, if you end up with lower than expected line pressure...lets say high clutch..and the lower pressure causes it to slip ~ when I say 'slip', think say 2000rpm on the drive plates, and 1800rpm on the driven plates, because the slip is making them under-rotate by 200rpm ; you get all the usual nasties like heat and band/clutch wear, but even if it's only 20rpm slip the same thing happens...and... you'll hardly ever pick this up driving the thing with the torque converter active as it effectively masks these sorts of slippages that are line pressure related ...(the newer TCUs can detect clutch slip rate)...just  FYI as it were...  
    • There's nothing that some paddle pop sticks and extra cable ties can't fix.
×
×
  • Create New...