Jump to content
SAU Community

Getting My Car Tuned

Slowpoke

By Slowpoke,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Slowpoke Proficient

Slowpoke

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

I was thinking, my car is running on a t3 turbo now with an untuned MOTEC.. if i go and tune it now.. and when i get a new t3 which is a direct swap.. does it need a retune again? or can it run on the same settings coz its the same turbo just a new swap?

Cheers

Bernard

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206564-getting-my-car-tuned/
Share on other sites
Slowpoke Proficient

Slowpoke

Posted
  • Author
Posted
T3 doesnt really tell you much. If the new turbo is the exact same specs and flows the same amount of air then you shouldnt have to but if the specs are different then you will need a retune.

sorry i dont really know the exact specs until i go check it out.. i think should be a TRUST T3 turbo.. thats all i know i guess.. im a noobie :banana:

If i get my mechanic to take the turbo out, he would be able to check the specs of the turbo and probably order the exact same one for me so i wont need a retune right?

I heard running a car with an untuned ECU is bad.. real bad.. even if i granny it.. am i right?

Cheers

Bernard

Blitz Grand Master

Blitz

Posted
Posted

Why would you be pulling the turbo out to replace it with the very same thing? Is the current turbo stuffed?

If there is a problem with the current turbo, logically you would wait until you swapped them out before doing any sort of tuning.

Slowpoke Proficient

Slowpoke

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Why would you be pulling the turbo out to replace it with the very same thing? Is the current turbo stuffed?

If there is a problem with the current turbo, logically you would wait until you swapped them out before doing any sort of tuning.

hmm.. thats very true.. but its just that on my current budget i cant do both at the same time.. and i still need the car as a daily.. so i figured tuning it first so i can still granny it and use it as a daily for now..

What about rebuilding turbos? is it worth it? would it be expensive?

cheers

Bernard

Slowpoke Proficient

Slowpoke

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i just gave a call to per4manz and they quoted roughly about 700+ for a rebuild, machining and adding a 360degree (something) to the turbo as im gonna be boosting it at 1.2bar once its tuned.. thats roughly about 15psi am i right? would u guys reckon i rebuild it or get a new one.. coz its already a high mounted and its the seals that are causing the problems..

I heard getting a same new turbo would be almost double the price..

Cheers

Bernard

Bumblebee Experienced

Bumblebee

Posted
Posted

umm no. 1Bar is 14.7psi.. so 1.2 Bar is probably closer to 18psi..

u need to do research before u change anything or boost anything.

read up about what most ppl put on theyre rb20's, and what is a direct bolt on so u dont have to change anything else.

and trust dont make anything with a T3 footprint.. they use theyre own size last time i checked :cheers:

Slowpoke Proficient

Slowpoke

Posted
  • Author
Posted
umm no. 1Bar is 14.7psi.. so 1.2 Bar is probably closer to 18psi..

u need to do research before u change anything or boost anything.

read up about what most ppl put on theyre rb20's, and what is a direct bolt on so u dont have to change anything else.

and trust dont make anything with a T3 footprint.. they use theyre own size last time i checked :)

i just found out its a china turbo.. so not gonna rebuild.. gonna get a ITS GT30 later on and put it in and tune.. guess ill be off the road for quite some time..

moobaque Rising Star

moobaque

Posted
Posted
guess ill be off the road for quite some time..

mate that's really your choice... if you have the money for a tune now chuck it away in a bank account you cant touch till you upgrade turbo.... if you really need your car for a daily then save your money and do it at once....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The old manifold was quite under the GTR strut brace.  The new manifold is quite [unknown] the GTR strut brace. The GTR strut brace was needed to clear the bonnet vents. The Old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. The old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, and the new bonnet without vents. But I am hoping the GTR strut brace clears the new manifold :p
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Bonnet clearance?
    • joshuaho96
      Magnetic Drain Plug Snapped in Half

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
    • GTSBoy
      Finding E-30 & E-85 in Sydney

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This seems like a pointless exercise. There is no E30 availability. Ongoing availability of E85 should not be assumed. Flex-fuel is the only sensible approach, so you can use E85 when and where you can get it, 98 when that's al you can get, and anything in between as you fill it up and drain it down. And if that means replacing the pumps, fitting a flex capable sensor/ECU/whatever has to be done to these Renault shitboxen, then.....so be it?
×
×
  • Create New...