Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I was thinking, my car is running on a t3 turbo now with an untuned MOTEC.. if i go and tune it now.. and when i get a new t3 which is a direct swap.. does it need a retune again? or can it run on the same settings coz its the same turbo just a new swap?

Cheers

Bernard

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206564-getting-my-car-tuned/
Share on other sites

T3 doesnt really tell you much. If the new turbo is the exact same specs and flows the same amount of air then you shouldnt have to but if the specs are different then you will need a retune.

sorry i dont really know the exact specs until i go check it out.. i think should be a TRUST T3 turbo.. thats all i know i guess.. im a noobie :banana:

If i get my mechanic to take the turbo out, he would be able to check the specs of the turbo and probably order the exact same one for me so i wont need a retune right?

I heard running a car with an untuned ECU is bad.. real bad.. even if i granny it.. am i right?

Cheers

Bernard

Why would you be pulling the turbo out to replace it with the very same thing? Is the current turbo stuffed?

If there is a problem with the current turbo, logically you would wait until you swapped them out before doing any sort of tuning.

Why would you be pulling the turbo out to replace it with the very same thing? Is the current turbo stuffed?

If there is a problem with the current turbo, logically you would wait until you swapped them out before doing any sort of tuning.

hmm.. thats very true.. but its just that on my current budget i cant do both at the same time.. and i still need the car as a daily.. so i figured tuning it first so i can still granny it and use it as a daily for now..

What about rebuilding turbos? is it worth it? would it be expensive?

cheers

Bernard

i just gave a call to per4manz and they quoted roughly about 700+ for a rebuild, machining and adding a 360degree (something) to the turbo as im gonna be boosting it at 1.2bar once its tuned.. thats roughly about 15psi am i right? would u guys reckon i rebuild it or get a new one.. coz its already a high mounted and its the seals that are causing the problems..

I heard getting a same new turbo would be almost double the price..

Cheers

Bernard

umm no. 1Bar is 14.7psi.. so 1.2 Bar is probably closer to 18psi..

u need to do research before u change anything or boost anything.

read up about what most ppl put on theyre rb20's, and what is a direct bolt on so u dont have to change anything else.

and trust dont make anything with a T3 footprint.. they use theyre own size last time i checked :cheers:

umm no. 1Bar is 14.7psi.. so 1.2 Bar is probably closer to 18psi..

u need to do research before u change anything or boost anything.

read up about what most ppl put on theyre rb20's, and what is a direct bolt on so u dont have to change anything else.

and trust dont make anything with a T3 footprint.. they use theyre own size last time i checked :)

i just found out its a china turbo.. so not gonna rebuild.. gonna get a ITS GT30 later on and put it in and tune.. guess ill be off the road for quite some time..

guess ill be off the road for quite some time..

mate that's really your choice... if you have the money for a tune now chuck it away in a bank account you cant touch till you upgrade turbo.... if you really need your car for a daily then save your money and do it at once....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To be determined, Luke, to be determined. 馃榿 Definitely the car
    • It might be worth having a good look at the chassis behind the bumper then; most people prefer the series 2 look so it might have been changed to cheaper parts as part of an earlier repair
    • The car itself a series 2. I was just curious about the headlights and just wanted to confirm that they were series 1. Good to know the rest of the front end is series 1. It鈥檒l be easier for me to find parts on the aftermarket side of things lol
    • If you've wired up the coils & injectors properly, & have the neo CAS loom for the trigger, it should all work. The VCT works the same way so just different plugs between s1 & neo. Assuming DBW if no IAC. Don't bother with the stock boost solenoid with g4x.
    • THERE IS NO IAT SENSOR ON ANY SINGLE TURBO RB. And the one on an RB26 is not for "engine control" - it's really too big and too slow and is only used for over-temp alarming (as far as I can tell). Anyway, you don't have one. You want/need one for the Link, then you need to buy one, find a spot for it, and wire it in. You do know that the stock boost solenoid is not capable of "control", right? It is merely on or off, for the low boost (5 psi) and high boost (7psi), which the ECU enforces mostly based on gear. The stock solenoid is not for PWM control and is not plumbed up in a way to provide it. If you want to control boost properly, then you need a proper MAC valve. And yes, you can wire either of them direct to the ECU. Well, I assume you can - I don't know what the boost solenoid pins on the plug and play Link are capable of. They really should be as capable as any normal Link - but seeing as it is plg and play, it might be limited to stock functionality. Read the doco.   You really do just want to plug stuff together without understanding how it works, right? I can't help you there. I don't know the plug types or pinning on half the stuff you're asking about. If I had to do it I would sit down with the wiring diagrams, the car/looms and a multimeter and work out what is what.
  • Create New...