Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gts-t 4-wheel Steering Question

stockbutnice
 Share

Recommended Posts

stockbutnice Newbie

stockbutnice

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

Im looking to purchase an R33 GTS-T from a dealer on wednesday. Went and checked it out on the weekend and it was imaculate however, the rear stearing cord was snapped preventing the rear stearing from functioning. The dealer said that he will have it fixed by the time i go and pick it up but i want to be able to check to see if it works first. My mate has told me i can test it out by driving around a few corners and if it feels like its dragging or slightly hopping or if the back half feels like its moving seperate from the front then its not connected. However i was just wonder if there is a stationary way i can test this, like if i have the car turned on and i lock the steering wheel to the left, will the reer wheels move as much as to be obviouse that its connected?

Its quite urgent as i would love to pick it up ASAP but i dont want to be left with a 4-wheel steering car that only uses two wheels to steer. :cheers:

If anyone could help that will be great.

Thanks, and BTW, this site is nuts. It has already shown me things about my car that i needed to know.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206597-r33-gts-t-4-wheel-steering-question/
Share on other sites
QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

hicas wont kick in till after about 70-80kp/h, and it only moves the wheels by like 0.7degrees. you could see it move on the spot if you put the car into hicas diagnostic mode, the wheels should move from side to side. have a look in the TUT/DIY section to see how to do that.

R338OY Veteran

R338OY

Posted
Posted

I feel HICAS kick in as slow as 40km/h. If i change lanes sharply it punches into the corner unnaturally sharp.

It's easiest to tell on a motorway, but really just change directions sharply and you'll feel the rear wheels squirm a little.

HICAS diagnostic is a good idea.

stockbutnice Newbie

stockbutnice

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks guys,il try both methods when i go and check out the car tomorrow. Hopefully the cord wasnt "accidentally" snapped for a reason. i.e. Rear stearing is f*#<>d.

I guess il see tomorrow.

stockbutnice Newbie

stockbutnice

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Non comprende. What are you talking about?

Its the electric cords behind the rear axel. a few cords bunched up (tapped together) and connected with plugs. Im not the most mechanically inteligent person, but im pretty sure the HICAS was disconnected when the cords here snaped. Its all fixed now, i got the dealer to do it before i bought it yesterday. i took it to a mate of mines work shop lastnight, we put it up on the hoist and its all connected. Then we took it for a drive and you can instantly tell its all working just by steering about a metre from side to side at about 70ks.

First turbo car ive owned and i love it. At around 3000 she kicks in nicely. Already looking into an electronic boost controller as she is just the stock 7pound at the moment.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • silviaz
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By silviaz · Posted

      Ah right. Maybe my rb just loves chewing through batteries lol.
    • MBS206
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      On the R34 can't you just unplug the IACV? This is the way I've always done it on the R33. Disconnect IACV, get it idling around 650rpm, and then do a power reset on the ECU to get it to relearn idle (factory ECU).   The big reason no one has touched on as to why you'd want to get the base idle right, is that it means the computer needs to make smaller adjustments to get a good idle at 700-750rpm.   Also, cleaning the IACV won't normally make the car suddenly idle lower or higher. The main issue with the IACV gumming up is that the valve sticks. This means the inputs the ECU gives, aren't translating to changes in air flow. This can cause idle choppy ness as the ECU is now needing to give a lot of input to get movement, but then it moves too far, and then has to do the same in reverse, and it can mean the ECU can't catch stalls quickly either.
    • MBS206
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      12.8 for a great condition, fully charged battery. If the battery will only ever properly charge to about 12.2V, the battery is well worn, and will be dead soon. When I say properly charge, I mean disconnect it from the car, charge it to its max, and then put your multimeter on it, and see what it reads about an hour later. Dieing batteries will hold a higher "surface charge", but the minutest load, even from just a multimeter (which in the scheme of things is considered totally irrelevant, especially at this level) will be enough over an hour to make the surface charge disappear.   I spend wayyy too much time analysing battery voltages for customers when they whinge that our equipment (telematics device) is causing their battery to drain all the time. Nearly every case I can call it within about 2 months of when the battery will be completely dead. Our bigger customers don't even debate it with me any more ha ha ha. A battery at 12.4 to 12.6 I'd still be happy enough with. However, there's a lot of things that can cause a parasitic draw in a car, first of which is alarms and immobilisers. To start checking, put your multimeter into amps, (and then connect it properly) and measure your power draw with everything off. Typical car battery is about 40aH. Realistically, you'll get about half this before the car won't start. So a 100mA power drain will see you pretty much near unstartable in 8 days.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Car should sit at 12.2 or more, maybe 12.6 or 12.7 when fully charged and happy. If there is a decent enough parasitic load then it will certainly go lower than 12.2 with time. You can't beat physics.
    • silviaz
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By silviaz · Posted

      Ok guess I can rule out the battery, probably even the starter and alternator (maybe) as well. I'm gonna clean those leads and see what happens if it's still shit I might take it to an auto electrician. Unless the immobiliser is that f**king heavy, but it shouldn't be.  If I start the car every day, starts up perfectly never an issue. Isn't 12v low, shouldn't it be around 12.5v?
×
×
  • Create New...