Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey its me again !

I've heard a lot of exhaust problems and all

but i've heard people putting on a silencer and increase power...

I would like to know if anyone here who can quote me a price on a silencer

and where to get them?

Overall, any information on silencers (like if its a universal adaptor) would be great

david

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206658-silencer/
Share on other sites

silencer doesn't increase power.

to put it simply, it'll make an overly large diameter exhaust smaller, i.e. 3" and by doing so increases the volumetric vacuum efficiency of said large exhaust.

most exhausts have to be designed with a silencer.

as for quotes, search the regular online performance shops or head down/call your local exhaust shop.

simple.

/thread to be closed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206658-silencer/#findComment-3655215
Share on other sites

any place that sells mufflers should have them

they are just a piece of pipe with a sort of round dish that bolt straight into the tip of your cannon muffler

you could get the same effect by getting a flat bit of metal the same size as your muffler tip and drilling a hole in the middle of it. then stuff that into you exhaust..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206658-silencer/#findComment-3655524
Share on other sites

wouldnt worry about a silencer....

get an Oval style resonator put in....

will make it quieter, and give it a gruntier sound....

i originally had a 4inch canon put on a 2.25inch exhaust...was running crap

put the silencer on, ran better...

took the silencer off and added an oval resonator, runs better

next, reducing cannon size, keeping piping and resonator...run best..... :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206658-silencer/#findComment-3662516
Share on other sites

Cuz you got an N/A car, if you put a 3" exahaust / large cannon muffler, you are loosing back pressure volumetric efficiency. By placing the Silencer in, it narrows the In-pipe of your cannon muffler and reduces the size back down to say 2.5" so your not loosing back pressure volumetric efficiency. = Get you power back up.

Silencers, pretty much a metal cylender, goto any exhaust place and they can make / measure one up for you. Or if you bought an aftermarket exhaust, they usualy come with a silencer.

Edited by Eug
correct terminology
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206658-silencer/#findComment-3669290
Share on other sites

i have made the appropriate edits in the above post...

it's funny seeing people who know about something without even knowing the correct terminology or even how to spell. hardly makes the information provided seem credible and will only confuse others from my personal point of view.

while this isn't a direct attack on (00)SKYLINE(00) i am merely using him/her as an example to inform others of the correct wording for future reference, more accurate search results and to prevent confusion with new forum members.

cheers

eug

p.s. - the thread will remain open, but the ideology that a silencer will increase power is not entirely correct. in the instance of an excessively large exhaust you will regain the response lost by installing a silencer into said excessively large exhaust. however on a well suited exhaust with efficient volumetric vacuum/scavenging characteristics (2.0" ~ 2.5") installing a silencer will more than likely create back pressure, and thus decreasing the efficiency of the exhaust.

just remember, back pressure is bad - you do not want it. increasing the volumetric efficiency of an exhaust will decrease back pressure.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206658-silencer/#findComment-3669388
Share on other sites

Just want to make sure, but if you have a set inlet size (say 2.5") the muffler tip size only affects the noise that comes out of your car and has nothing to do with performance or any other factor, correct?

This is of course assuming the the muffler tip is at least 2.5" too.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206658-silencer/#findComment-3670512
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi guys, i had a silencer on my 6" cannon with a 4" tip

I use it for the longer trips at higher speeds to keen the fiance from getting a headache!!!

Ive stopped using it now though because it left a whole lot of black exhaust crap around the exhaust edge and silencer.

It looks good though, but id only ever use it as a show accesory, not much else.

You can kinda see the silencer in this pic

http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/EMZ...nt=IMG_2706.jpg

And compaired to without

http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/EMZ...nt=IMG_2523.jpg

EMZ

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206658-silencer/#findComment-3694910
Share on other sites

p.s. - the thread will remain open, but the ideology that a silencer will increase power is not entirely correct. in the instance of an excessively large exhaust you will regain the response lost by installing a silencer into said excessively large exhaust. however on a well suited exhaust with efficient volumetric vacuum/scavenging characteristics (2.0" ~ 2.5") installing a silencer will more than likely create back pressure, and thus decreasing the efficiency of the exhaust.

just remember, back pressure is bad - you do not want it. increasing the volumetric efficiency of an exhaust will decrease back pressure.

Damn, as you know I put 2.5" system recently,,,but it wasnt with a oval resonator.........its with a donut resonator, so when i run without a silencer it was sooooo loud, So i put the silencer back in so it runs smooth.........

So if i put a oval resonator instead of a hotdog one, i wont need to put a silnecer and create any back pressure ya?

Just thinking, do I have to get rid of the donut one to replace oval one or can I just add oval one with hotdog one (keep both)?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206658-silencer/#findComment-3703245
Share on other sites

that was way too confusing... oval donut oval donut oval donut.

to be honest, just do what you think feels right. there is no perfect setup, not unless you want to invest the time and money on bench flow tests and buying different exhausts. it's alot of R&D involved.

the 2.25" - 2.50" is a general rule of thumb!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206658-silencer/#findComment-3703570
Share on other sites

that was way too confusing... oval donut oval donut oval donut.

to be honest, just do what you think feels right. there is no perfect setup, not unless you want to invest the time and money on bench flow tests and buying different exhausts. it's alot of R&D involved.

the 2.25" - 2.50" is a general rule of thumb!

hehehe :woot: my bad.......just thought that using a oval resonator will reduce noise better than hotdog resonator, thats all.

Cheers :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206658-silencer/#findComment-3706648
Share on other sites

Got a question regarding this.

I know that if you put a 3" exhaust system on a N/A car it will lose power as it doesn't have enough volumetric efficiency.

I'm getting a cannon put onto my car this Friday, nfi what size it is, I'll post a pic up to help. But anyway, the pipe from the flange back towards the cannon is the same as stock size and the cannon increases in size a fair bit. Will I lose power from this?

DSC01701.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206658-silencer/#findComment-3714684
Share on other sites

I have a silencer in mine. With the silencer out, there is a huge increase in noise, and a slightly noticable gain in power. I keep the silencer in for the road, but take it out for skid pan days etc. Car sounds way more angry and aggressive with the silencer out. :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206658-silencer/#findComment-3724616
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Yes i pulled mine perm out but in the back of the car..... so if i do get pulled over b4 i get a yellow i can knock it back in and bult it in and start it up and the police should be kewl with it.

Even so ur car can go up to nine decibel in sound and with it out i do not think it hits this and just drive like a sane person if u floor it police will grab u on the flooring and will not worry about the sound.

HaPpY Driving people

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206658-silencer/#findComment-3754608
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...