Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I think u need to get over it mafia, just because u dont like the sound doesnt mean it is bad. Or is it just because u failed to get one to run properly on your car when others have no issues?

The sound gets annoying as hell after a while, but its not because I don't like the sound, I actually like some types of sounds, not these fairy ones people try to make.. Also, I tune cars - I can get a ATMO BOV to work, but whats the point? The system that these people are bolting them to aren't designed to have a massive deliberate air leak added to them. They are designed to be sealed. I've also seen a lot of BOVs sucking at idle... Hmmm, like some unfiltered air do they?

Your certainly not some mad engineer just because ur running a stock bov or understand its better to run a recirculating bov on a car with a MAF

Thats exactly right - You don't have to be a mad engineer to understand that if you complain about a ATMO BOV causing stability problems with idle, stalling at lights, etc, you're an idiot. You're also an idiot if you think that it is supposed to work. 95% of the people that do it don't even know how the air measurement system works on these models..

There is plenty of tough cars with atmo bov's its just the the shit cars with crappy sounding bov's far outnumber them

Yeah, but as you probably have no idea, most of these "tough" cars are running a MAP system due to maxing out all available MAF systems.. There is a BIG difference between a MAP and MAF system..

Besides your choice of rims is more of a crime than any atmo bov

Well, I'm not really worried, I like them, 90% of the people that have seen them like them, and you know what else? My car doesn't stall at lights, idle like a pig, or backfire on gear changes. Oh, and it doesn't sound like a donkey having a pen shoved up its ass when you change gears either.

All it does, is fry the tyres, whistle it's ass off when its ramming 20psi of boost into the engine, while delivering 314rwkw and 720nm or torque to the bitumen.

I can honestly tell you that 90% of the people that fit them to standard cars are looking for attention. And last time I checked, these people didn't have women getting wet, and trying to dive into the windows going "Fully sic uleh!" asking the guy to make love to them for 16 hours straight.

The only attention I saw was cops, pulling some fool over and giving him a nice fine for undue noise, or in cop terms, "sounding like a dickhead"..

Edited by The Mafia
I can honestly tell you that 90% of the people that fit them to standard cars are looking for attention. And last time I checked, these people didn't have women getting wet, and trying to dive into the windows going "Fully sic uleh!" asking the guy to make love to them for 16 hours straight.

Hmmm gurls making love to me for 16hrs...Straight, i think that would b nice... but i think i'd be sore n can't piss properly the next day... let alone aim @ the Bowl properly hahha

Some Foreplay would b good to :-)

-SeS

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
    • your right the maps for Australia came out in 2017 but are 2010 maps. i got the updated maps SD card put it in and it was the same. Same maps in my Brothers Nissan Patrol. 2020 i think his car is
    • Yeahhhh, the costs have killed me. Spent more than the cost of an engine rebuild and it most mostly servicing and a tune lol.
×
×
  • Create New...