Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey, time has come to put it back up after the Xmas period. the car is solid good for beginner or can be turned into competative drift/circuit car. for anyone keen enough could also be your streeter.

specs:

R32 Gtst

S15 SR20DET conversion (completed in japan)

S14 5 speed

211rwkw on 1.2 bar

Power FC and hand controller

OS geiken twin plate clutch ( recently rebuilt )

TOMEI 256 cams

550cc injectors

HKS GT SS turbo ( less than 1000ks done )

N/A SR20 throtlle body

Big internal fuel pump

xforce manifold

rb25 airflow meter

GTR exhaust

Big TRUST FMIC

GReddy triple core radiator

KAZZ 2 way diff

HKS coil overs

camber adjustable

hicas lock bar

drift pineapples

SPARCO driver's seat

GTR interior

shift knob

turbo timer

sparco steering wheel

boost gauge

Racing pedals

Strut tower brace

Drift style handbrake

body kit is genuine BN Sport kit

evc 4 set to 1.2 bar

WORK miester 3 peice rims.. fronts 18'' by 10'' and rear 18'' by 11'' new tyres on the rims.. front 255/40 rear 275/40

Full wide kit 30mm rear and 25mm front.

have some shitty skid rims and jap quality 30mm spacers for them

the car is not complied but has all the import approval and everything. i was quoted about 6k to comply it if i did no work on it just gave it to them and got it back. the car is seriously sick ive never owned or known anyone who owns anything like it. turbo is pretty much on boost whenever you mash the throttle, makes 5psi at 1500rpm. ive had it dyno'd twice, one at aussie dyno and made 208 with boost spike and massive dodgey bleeder. after i got elec boost it made 211 with the turbo starting to run out of puff.

the only 1 problem is something has f**ked out in the gearbox we think the selector has f**ked up because i only have 1st 2nd 3rd and 4th no 5th or reverse. box feels really good apart from that. im sure its nothing major. my mechanic thinks the same. car lights 1st 2nd and 3rd no dramas but could do with some slightly skinnier tyres on the back for real good fun. i can put anyone who is interested in touch with the guy i bought it off who is also the guy who has done 90% of the work on the car for any more info.

price is 15k not really gonna move much on that. car is well worth it.

pics:

(has the black wheels now)

sr32.jpg

P1090052.jpg

P1090049.jpg

DSC01949.jpg

DSC01972.jpg

also now has straight pipe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206822-sr32/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • If you haven't bought the ECU yet, I would strongly consider buying a modern ECU. Yes it is very easy to setup and tune, however it is lacking many of the features of a modern ECU. The pro plug in is something like 10 or 12 years old now? Can't remember exactly but it is very dated now. In that time the Elite was released and now we have the Nexus platform.  I would strongly consider not buying the ECU that is 3 generations old now (especially as it isn't a cheap ECU!). 
    • Im happy for it as long as it means reanult gets the boot 
    • Sorry I should have been more clear with the previous post.  The block is a sanding block - picture something like this https://motorguard.com/product/motor-guard-bgr161-bgr16-1-rigid-psa-sanding-block-2-5-8-x-16/ The guide coat is the paint It's two separate things I was talking about, there is no "block guide coat". 
    • Maybe more accurately, you aren't just dulling the existing paint, you are giving the new paint something to 'grab on to'. By sanding the existing paint, you're creating a bunch of pores for the new paint to hook on to.  You can lay new paint over existing paint without sanding it, might last a year or two then sad times. The paint will peal/flake off in huge chunks. By sanding it, the new paint is able to hang onto it and won't flake off.  Depends on the primer you are using. When you buy your paint, as the paint supplier what grit of sand paper to use before you lay down the primer.  Use whatever you like as a guide coat. Pick a colour that really stands out in contrast to the paint. So say your sanding/painting a currently white car, using a black guide coat would work well. You very lightly lay the black guide coat down, then as you sand the car with the large block, all the high spots and low spots will stand out as the black paint is sanded off (or isn't sanded off).  When you buy your paint, hit up your supplier for recommendations for what paint to use for a guide coat if you're unsure what would work well with your setup. 
    • Cheers thanks for the help mate I’ll see how we go with that one 
×
×
  • Create New...