Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gradenko, did you just damage the little feet that go over the pintle? cos if you did it would probably be ok to just trim them up and put them back in.

I cant see how they could possible do anything but protect the pintle when being inserted into the rail or manifold ( the feet that is). When I put in my sard ones they had no plastic pintle bits at all, just o-rings.

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by B-Man

What affect does broken pintle caps have on the injection system, pattern and flow ? ??

Yeah, its the bit that claws around the bottom of the injecter. A malformed pintle cap may not seal the lower o-ring to the fuel rail and that would let fuel leak into the inlet tract. Doesn't affect flow or spray pattern at all.

Steve, i think your right about the claws, they don't have much of a part to play in sealing the o-ring. A bit late for me to put the old caps back in. Their all gone now :). I didn't like how brittle the old pintle caps were, they could have come apart in the inlet tract at anytime and caused the injectors to leak, so I asked the guy to replace them all.

I had a few broken claws before I removed the injectors. I think combustion temperatures would have made short work of any rogue plastic bits. I remember reading a column in Wheels where the author told us about the time a mouse ran up his workshop mechanics leg, up his back, over his shoulder, down his arm, down a screwdriver and into the open carby he was working on. The engine gave a quick miss and splutter and returned to a solid idle like nothing had happened ;).

Steve, if the Sard injectors didn't come with caps, that could be the reason Inasant and yourself were having trouble with them leaking. Was there an indent after the lower o-ring for a pintle cap to sit on?

No indent. The pintle acutally protruded further than the stock one does. the leaking problem was definately the fault of the undersized o-ring provided. The injectors themselves sat quite firmly in the rail, and had to be pulled down with the injector cap screws.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • https://www.efisolutions.com.au/coolant-temperature-sensor-bosch-180sx-s14-s15-r33?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwzMi_BhACEiwAX4YZUHsCQhbiDT_NC3q5wD9jrzH6Dts9eGSr19NXSDw7x9WVm1sH7G3S4hoCwaUQAvD_BwE this is the one i replaced today
    • I have replaced the larger coolant temp sensor, i do see a smaller one next to it (looks to be just 1 pin) but i assume that is just for the dash? or should i replace that aswell?
    • Check coolant temp sensor ~ symptoms fit the hard hot start/cold start OK scenario --- if sensor goes open circuit, ECU thinks engine is cold and enriches mixture ....works when engine cold, but floods them with rich mixture when hot (Hyundi MAP engines are a bit infamous for this)...
    • OK, starter changed for a spare without much trouble. Neil had kindly left space to get to the top starter motor bolt from above with a long spanner which makes the whole deal much easier, and everything else was neat and easy to get at from underneath. Once the starter was changed everything was good, unplugged the CAS and turned the motor on the starter to make sure everything was free and happy. Onto properly priming the oil and first start. I'd picked up one of these oil prime kit from Boost doc a while back and this was my first time using it.  https://boostdoc.com.au/products/engine-oil-prime-kit?_pos=1&_sid=28c628a65&_ss=r While I'd organised all the fittings to hook it up to my GTR (sump plug to -6 feed and -4 T to tap it in and retain the oil pressure gauge, neither suited on this car as the oil pressure needs to T into 1/8 NPT not -4 and the Aeropro sump has some massive drainplug not that factory whatever it is. So, waiting for a couple of fittings, then I'll prime it and do first start, hopefully next weekend. Other than that going well, there is very little stopping a final alignment, tune then shakedown day
    • Also to mention, i just tested the CAS, seems to be working fine, can hear the pulses inbetween 0 and 180 degrees, another mention aswell, when i let the car sit for about a hour today, i went to start it and it almost fired on first crank, then just completely struggled. Could it possibly be blocked injectors?, maybe allowing a little bit of fuel to seep past allowing it it almost start first crank?
×
×
  • Create New...