Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 4 weeks later...

Hey lad's a couple of tips for you the best angle to use is 14-15 degree's and to get a pulse firing order you do this by matching your firing order to the collector one next to the other around in a circle, and try to get the same lengths on each pipe it's hard but you will be rewarded with more ponie's. If your useing stainless use 321 grade as this is the best grade for withstanding the heat and it weld's up a treat good luck!!

Edited by The BOP

It's to get more pressure if you have a random order they while affect the flow. It's kind of like a whirlpool and accelerates the gases out, hard to explain but that how we build all our collectors on our cars at work unless it's a tri y or cross over system but that another story again!

I ran into a mate last night that was telling me about jacketed pipes too so you can pump water around your pipes to keep temp down know thats some trick shit but dam costly and hard to make he tells me they run it on there race boats but i dont see any reason not to try it on cars. Only down side would be the extra weight but you could drop the pipes wall thickness down to compensate, just a few more things to think about

never heard of making the firing order go round in a circle but sounds quite interesting.... any physics behind this you can explain?

most boats run water around the exhaust to heat the water up for the motor, not to cool the exhaust

you want the heat in the exhaust gas to increase the gas velocity due to maximum expansion of the gas. same theory as HPC style coatings keeping the heat in, and helping spool times.

I'll ask him, these are on race boats so im not sure about keeping water temp up is required, nascar donks make a bit of heat but I'll check it out.

The only area were it was double pipe was the header pipes to the collector, yeah your right hpc coating mantain temp and reduce heat soak

most boats run water around the exhaust to heat the water up for the motor, not to cool the exhaust

you want the heat in the exhaust gas to increase the gas velocity due to maximum expansion of the gas. same theory as HPC style coatings keeping the heat in, and helping spool times.

Edited by The BOP

boats pull in river water which is cold, unless you have a heat exchanger system they use the exhaust gas temps to heat the water so your not running cold water through a hot block - stops them cracking.

boats pull in river water which is cold, unless you have a heat exchanger system they use the exhaust gas temps to heat the water so your not running cold water through a hot block - stops them cracking.

Makes perfect sense, although the boats ive seen them on are factory, and use a heat exchanger !?!

Makes perfect sense, although the boats ive seen them on are factory, and use a heat exchanger !?!

hmmm

do they still make water exit into the exhuast system? might be a newer design as the older boats i've worked on just had water entering the exhaust pipe after going through the motor and the waters shot out the exhaust pipe in the rear of the boat.

  • 3 weeks later...
It's to get more pressure if you have a random order they while affect the flow. It's kind of like a whirlpool and accelerates the gases out, hard to explain but that how we build all our collectors on our cars at work unless it's a tri y or cross over system but that another story again!

I ran into a mate last night that was telling me about jacketed pipes too so you can pump water around your pipes to keep temp down know thats some trick shit but dam costly and hard to make he tells me they run it on there race boats but i dont see any reason not to try it on cars. Only down side would be the extra weight but you could drop the pipes wall thickness down to compensate, just a few more things to think about

keep heat inside the exhaust manifold makes more power so i wouldnt recommend having water jackets in ur exhaust manifold

  • 4 weeks later...

Hi guys, just on the water cooled exhaust on boats, I believe the primary reason for this is to run cooling around the exhaust initially to cool the gasses before exiting the boat at the rear through a fibreglass transom. Having fibreglass hulls the heat from exhaust piping has been known to melt holes through the transom. I work in the Navy and the RHIBs we have run a jacket water cooling system much like the coolant system on cars with a glycol based coolant/corrosion inhibitor. This jacket water is cooled in a heat exchanger by salt water and the salt water then shrouds the exhast system out through the transom exhast outlets. Adriano is correct in his statement about the muffling effect of the water shroud in the exhaust system although a lot of boats have underwater exhast outlets too, which muffles them just fine.

  • 3 weeks later...
well i asked Kyle (6boost) and he does says you cant do them by hand, you need a mill with an indexing head at the least.... i still plan on attempting it in some way, dunno how you would get it into a bandsaw though Craved?

hey VB you can make them by hand but milled always comes out better

the one on the left is hand made and the right is milled

just use some dunny roll cardboard to pratice your angles

post-18947-1214917667_thumb.jpg

post-18947-1214917701_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...