Wtf Batman

[Quigga]

installed rb20det into onevia

no problems with boost when stock as a rock

now added fmic (custom piped)

solid induction pipe (no floppy snorkel)

hks2540 snail

custom external coilpacks (vn modified)

aftermarket atmo bov

bosh040

safc

single stage bc

custom 3ich zaust dump back straight through

koyo stainless rad

and some more shit that doesnt matter

HERES THE PROBLEM!!!

stock boost so 7-9lpsi no worries with power bla bla bla

when flicked to high boost its fine untill it goes above 9psi, then kinda does a limmiter but not really more like a stutter, so stops making boost and power.

played with the safc to try to counter the ecu running outa map but ive gone to 20 lean and its still does it, its better but still there, i dont really wanna go much more because detonation (although if others are running leaner let me know)

currently set around 13-15 for stock boost since high boost craps out

BUT!!!!!! its on two occasions runs like a f**king rocket and does wat its supposed to no crapping out, boosting to 16psi no worries and wheelspinning all the way there lol until i blew a cooler pipe noth times and back to shit again!

checked every pipe for splits and bends and leaks but no avail, looked at every possible thing but cannot work the prob out

PLEASE HELP! any ideas or even theories please please help i want the ROCKET feeling back thats why i put the turbo 6 into the nonturbo 4 hole!

[mjfawke]

And have you checked the computer for fault codes yet?

[TTT]

hks2540, 16psi, bosch 040.

then stock ECU + SAFC.

no mention of AFM, injectors...

then leaning out to 20 on safc with no mention of "on the dyno with a wideband A:F sensor up it's bunghole".

how about some more info..

has it been tuned on a dyno?

what power did it make and at what boost?

what A:F ratio is it tuned to?

how are the modified external VN coil's being controlled by the stock ECU?

[Quigga]

hks2540, 16psi, bosch 040.

then stock ECU + SAFC.

no mention of AFM, injectors...

then leaning out to 20 on safc with no mention of "on the dyno with a wideband A:F sensor up it's bunghole".

how about some more info..

has it been tuned on a dyno?

what power did it make and at what boost?

what A:F ratio is it tuned to?

how are the modified external VN coil's being controlled by the stock ECU?

never been on dyno with this setup , no idea of a/f ratio, i been doing all this on street tune

coils are just run from standard ignighter its a proven setup

Edited February 20, 2008 by Quigga

[1400r]

fuel cut or misfire

redo plug gap and if no fuel cut removal mods lower the boost till you do

easy

[TTT]

never been on dyno with this setup , no idea of a/f ratio, i been doing all this on street tune

I don't get it.

even a "street tune" would involve a wide band O2 sensor, a datalogger and your tuning tool (safc)

you'd do a run, check the datalogger to see what a:f mixture is like at what revs, then adjust your singal bender at each rev point to suit.

Are you just going for a thrash, then making a change on the SAFC going by the seat of the pants feel?

that's insane.!!

How can you say you are doing a tune of any sort and not know what the a:f mixtures are like?

[Quigga]

I don't get it.

even a "street tune" would involve a wide band O2 sensor, a datalogger and your tuning tool (safc)

you'd do a run, check the datalogger to see what a:f mixture is like at what revs, then adjust your singal bender at each rev point to suit.

Are you just going for a thrash, then making a change on the SAFC going by the seat of the pants feel?

that's insane.!!

How can you say you are doing a tune of any sort and not know what the a:f mixtures are like?

all your saying is get a dyno tune?

well if i had enough money to do that itd be done by now! i build everything by myself and do 99% at home to save money hence why im here asking if anyone can help to keep that $$$$ in my pocket not mr dyno mechanic

[TTT]

I was trying to be helpful mate (for once).

you have your rb20 with stock turbo and exhaust etc.

the stock ECU goes about it's business managing it.

you change a turbo, put in 60% more boost than what the stock setup on the stock turbo is, so probably over 100% more volume in ingested air.

then you are "blindly" making changes to parameters via a signal bending device.

played with the safc to try to counter the ecu running outa map but ive gone to 20 lean and its still does it

you don't see this as a problem?

I'm sorry you don't have the money for a dyno run.

SAU clubs in each state always seem to hold dyno days.

and you can have 3 runs for about $50 on those sort of days.

perhaps you could save up for that.

get one run, look at the graph showing A:F mixture and make adjustments via your SAFC.

I don't want to be judgemental but it seems you have no idea what you are doing (from a tuning point of view).

It's great that you have done so much work by yourself, but it is all going to turn in to a smoldering lump of piston residue if you keep doing what you are doing.

[Fixxxer]

You haven't said what type of spark plugs you are using?????

If you are running 1.1mm gap then this is most likely your problem.

Try NGK BKR7E or BCPR6E(S) (or BCPR7E(S) colder plugs), gapped at 0.8mm

Might be the best $24 you've ever spent on your car.

Fixxxer

[TTT]

actually.. you live 1 suburb away from me.

why not check out the QLD section of these forums for events.

they might have a dyno day comming up.

or even the NS.com qld section for events for the next dyno day.

[Guilt-Toy]

send me a pic of the inspection hole on the side of the block when your finished tuning it. I neeed cheering up.

[Quigga]

fair enough i get wat ur saying, but WHY has it run like a freaking dream on 2 occasions??

ive got everything to cope with the bigger turbo, just because i dont have a a/f gauge doesnt mean i cant feel wats happening, 5ritch is too ritch and it blows black smoke sets my rear bar on fire and makes all the kids in the street jump for joy, 0 the car runs ritch and stutters at the 9psi point, 10lean makes the car run better but still craps out at this point, ect to 20 when i hit the stutter its cracking like a WWII battlefield

ino how much dyno days are but i thought maybe just maybe its sumthing else

[Quigga]

You haven't said what type of spark plugs you are using?????

If you are running 1.1mm gap then this is most likely your problem.

Try NGK BKR7E or BCPR6E(S) (or BCPR7E(S) colder plugs), gapped at 0.8mm

Might be the best $24 you've ever spent on your car.

Fixxxer

iridums its not spark

[TTT]

well, since you've done so much work yourself already it might eb a stupid quesiton to ask, but have you cleaned the AFM?

or have you re-soldered the AFM joints inside the actual AFM?

search for AFM+SOLDER to see what I mean.

Also, iridium plugs don't mean that you don't have a spark issue.

how old are they?

what gap?

what heat range?

and since you have been "tuning" and telling me just above that it has been so rich it BURNS your rear bar etc, those plugs will be well f**ked by now.

Fixxer is correct.

$24 for 6 new NGK BCPR6ES – 8 plugs already gapped to 0.8mm may fix your problem... well.. one of them.

just because i dont have a a/f gauge doesnt mean i cant feel wats happening

lol.. mate it's your car and your choice... but from all your money saving, it looks like it's going to cost you in the end.

[limpus]

Alittle knowledge can be a dangerous thing...you seem to know enough about what needs to be done but at the same time there are factors which you are ignoring...and you seem to be chasing your tail in this case...without monitoring afrs and more importantly ignition timing (which the safc can't control anyway)...how are you going to get a decent result? Not to mention that a 2540 on a rb20 when tuned well can push numbers in excess of 240rwkw...with the stock afm and injectors and the afm signal bending safc...its gonna end badly...

Edited February 20, 2008 by limpus

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

get rid of the safc and just go for remaps... there's limitations when using SAFCs

a remap will perform just as good as a PFC for mild tunes

and leaning out using the SAFC without a wideband O2 is asking to blow your motor.. now that's not saving money thats wasting a few grand.

$400 remap vs $2000 worth of damage.

[FATAZZ]

Is that $400 remap done on a dyno in Sydney?

[rb20inside]

Mate, I have an rb20 in a 180 and have also done nearly all the work myself.

I have a similar sized turbo, fmic, 3in exh, z32 afm, 550cc inj, ebc, remap, etc

Firstly, welcome to the world of turbo performance. Until it’s tuned and sorted (sometimes even still after) it will be very hit and miss (hence your 2 experience of space flight)

I had iridium plugs in till my tuner said they didn’t work to potential with Nissan coilpacks for some reason (forget the science behind it).

He suggested and sourced some copper NGK B8EGV plugs for me.

I put them in and yes definitely “the best $24 ever spent” (although they seem to cost more than $4 each at Repco)

Gapping the plugs is band-aid solution and doesn’t allow them to perform at their full potential (smaller gap = weaker spark). It is better to get a plug designed for the application.

Not saying plugs will solve all your problems but is definitely worth a go and worth the money.

Also welding a second lug (same as for the standard O2 sensor) in the exhaust and running a datalogger (as stated) when out experimenting with a mate is a good option. Lets you know what is going on and makes your decisions a little less blind.

I would recommend a remap… won’t cost much more than your SAFC. Add some dyno time and you should be sweet.

[Quigga]

yea ive ruled out spark trust me ive spent a lot of time researching and testing ignition systems, im running much bigger coils and plugs to suit the iridiums were liek 20 or 30 each and are being used by some serious engines 400kw+, ive definatly got that sorted almost positive thats not the issue

looks like its stock boost until i can afford the microtech or similar maybe just a a/f gauge for the mean time........

i cant help but think its a sensor or somthing because ive never had a car just go magic fast for a bit then not..... anyway feedback still welcome

[TTT]

those Autometer A:F gauges are about as useful as tits on a bull.

if you are going to tune it yourself, you will need a wideband O2 sensor.

and believe me, if you are doing the stuff you have been to save money, you won't be buying a wide band O2 sensor.