Stagea Rb25neo Starter

[Whooby]

Hello all,

I've got a really stupid annoying problem.

The original starter in the car was getting a weird and strange, eg. it would make a starting attempt sound after the engine has started and the key released.

Weird point 2 was that I turned the car off and went to turn it back on again and nothing, not even a solenoid click. I thought maybe the battery was really flat.(batt is 3months old, Marine battery 585CCA)

Managed to get the car jump started then it was happy again.

Next morning go to move the car, nothing 0, Zip. Put the volt meter on the stagea battery, 12.8Volts. Tried to crank it, not much voltage drop at all.

So I get my Celsior to jump start it thinking the battery is stuffed in the Stagea.

But NO! Celsior running, jump leads connected, tried to start Stagea, nothing. Not even a solenoid click. I thought the celsior should be able to start it surely, V8 plus a massive 750CCA battery could crank the Stagea. But nothing.

There is where I start to get real annoyed. So I pull the starter off the stagea, its looks worse than a SR20('92) starter i have. Actually looks like it has a burn mark on the outer casing, like it hasnt disengaged and has burnt out the bushes.

Then I read the forums, VL RB30 starter works. Ring repco get one, $136 later i have a new starter to put on.

The physical appearance is different but it'd fitted easily and I read on here that a couple of you have used the VL starter so I didnt worry, and just put it in.

The strange part is the VL starter has 2 spade points, original stagea only has 1 the other is soldered to the outter casing.

I hooked up the + and the little wire to the spade and without a jump turn the key and it fires!!!!

Now this puts a smile back on my face, just to be safe took the car for an hour drive on the freeway to recharge the battery.

But the next day it goes south again, I'd be turned the car on and off a couple of times with no problems at all. But 1 time at the shops went to turn it on and CLick, CLick solenoid sound. Anger kicks in again.

So i tried removing the little wire from the spade point and trying it on the other spade thats on the starter. but nothing. No Click.

So again i put it back how it was, and after some attempts in fires! WTF?

Last night went out in the car, turned it on and off 4 or 5 times, fine. happy.

But went to go out 30mins later, Click, CLick.

Fooled around with the little wire again, no good this time. Checked the voltage in the little wire - 0.5-7Volts. Doesnt change even when turning the key.

BUT simple jump start this time and it was happy.

Later last night, tried to start the car no joy. Solenoid tick.

But this time, went to jump start the car and only got, Click, Click.

Even tried hitting the starter to release a possible jam, but no. again moved the wire to the other point. same old nothing. So i put it back

Tried to jump start the car and, and bingo it fired up.

My questions are WTF? and those who used a RB30 starter what do I do with the second spade point on the starter? do I earth it?

Any one else had these weird problems? Surely it'd be more than a battery if it wont jump even with my Celsior attached.

Any idea welcome, id like to get it fixed before sunday, Or i'll be holding everyone up with my cars problems(jumper leads always in the back)

Thanks.

[Stinky Rooster]

Sounds to me like either an earthing problem, or a relay. I would chase the starter relay first (if is is actually staying on after you release the key then this would be the most obvious)

Also, I dunno about the actual voltage levels at the solenoid, but AFAIK after the key is moved from the start position back to the on position, there should be NO power at the solenoid. Once again, this points to the relay.

12.8 volts at the battery seems a little low to me - it should be at about 14 volts (well, mine always are, regardless of the car) Also, The second wire from the solenoid (-) is only required if the starter casing doesn't provide a solid earth back to the chassis. If the - terminal is soldered to the casing then you can assume it is internally earthed? (hopefully someone else can confirm/deny this theory)

Also check your earthing strap to the engine. If you have a dodgy earth in the engine bay somewhere it may be trying to earth back through the solenoid wiring.

Sorry I don't have any sure fire fixes to offer.

[Whooby]

Thanks for quick reply, car has an earthing kit already(came on it) i tried removing it its earth to the battery and starting car. No change.

Where abouts is the starter relay? ive had a look but some of the words on the fuse box are scratched off.

My partner is off to our battery man today.

I put the volt meter on the battery + and the Starter casing 12.8V same as battery. I think the small wire is from the relay to engage the starter?

Thanks.

[_Ryan_]

Is it auto? Try starting it in neutral. I've had 3 of these auto's, and it was the same on a mates! My stagea one hasn't done it... YET

[Whooby]

Tried and failed with the neutral trick.

BUT! I found what my problem is, Massive voltage drop between the starter wire on the barrel and the solenoid engage wire. 12.8V down to 0.7 WTF?

So I ran a new wire from the barrel to the engage point on the solenoid and it cranks!

It's only a bandaid for now, but it's made my car reliable again.

I think the old rooted starter may have been jammed on and the wire has been burnt some where along the way so i'll have to track it down i suppose.

But thanks to those with suggestions.

Sunday here we come!

[Stinky Rooster]

YAY!

*happy dance*

[Duncan]

ahh good to hear it is fixed.

hey dale, is there a seperate relay for the starter motor? I thought they just ran a big wire straight to the battery, and the + signal goes to the solenoid on the motor?

as discussed the rb30 starter has a seperate earth that is not needed, on the one I got it was a short wire with a spade type plug at the end, just cut it off.