Rb30det - Missing 100kw

[roba]

cheers for the advice

just looking at the dyno plot, the torque curve drops off at 4100 rpm

where as the manifold pressure doesnt riset above boost pressure till 5000rpm

how do you explain the torque dropping off before the pressure (restriction) rises in the manifold.

Im not trying to discount anyones theories - i welcome them.

But i would like to be certain before spending anymore time and money on this bloody car.

cheers rob

[dangerman4]

the way im looking at it

everythings looking good up until 3750rpm.

at around 3750rpm your gate starts to open.

by 4000rpm its fully open and the interference with the ehaust turbine starts to cause turbulance in the housing. this contnues to build.

by 5000rpm the exhaust wheel has lost a tonne of speed as the gasses are trying to split between the gate exit and going out thru the wheel

due to the turbine slowing down the manifold pressure starts to rise higher and higher.

which only compounds the problem and hence why your torque dies in the ass.

not sure what a non gated rear housing is worth but i would assume not a lot.

and getting your manifold builder to install the gate into the manifold would be a simple procedure.

lowering your exhaust manifold pressure is a must and you have the dyno sheet proving its out of control.

so switching housings is the only way you will fix your issue.

[roba]

we now run the wastegate from the turbine housing where possible. I understand you feel its dodgy, I think the exact opposite, I'd PREFER to run it off the turbine, and do so on my own car, everyone of my friends cars, and any customer that will listen and let me do it. You have better boost control, more hp, faster spool,

6BOOST

Just a quick update, finally got the ecu back with the starting problem patched up (some interference/noise from the idle controller so the dealer just turned it off)

Anyway run it up on the dyno again checking the timing manually found it to be drifting around 10 deg or more under load. Called the dealer to check all settings ie sync falling edges etc. Could not get it stable.

Quickly tried a untuned motec - dead stable.

So ecu is back with dealer.

Has anyone had problems with these TF electronics plug in autronic ecus before ???

Cheers

rob

[SirRacer]

your in nz dude arent you? whos the tuner?

might be able to help you out with a manifold/gate setup to try sometime

[SABBAi]

IS the gate flowing too much?

[GeeTR]

Imo, the 2nd manifold looks good + iv seen too many spastic 9sec street VL's running that style of gate take off to remember, to think its that. Many ppl swear by that style.

10deg variance under load? that surely could be your issue. Thats a fantastically huge fail from a piece of Autronic hardware. Many a car would go bang with an extra 10deg thrown in at redline and wot.

I blew a wad over your dump / exhuast setup btw man, looks fantastic, love the gentle flare off the back

[roba]

cheers,

I blew a wad too. - of money.

Wont point the finger at the autronic just yet as my tuner may have used some incorrect settings, but hes pretty experienced so i doubt it.

[Sydneykid]

How recent is the Autronic? The earlier ones had big issues with the standard CAS and required a change in the internals to give clean trigger signals.

Cheers

Gary

[nizmonut]

dude, that hole is the size of the waste gate on mine....lol

also noted your CAS is almost cranked right around to fully retarded....recheck your base timing.. .

and if that head is the R33 vvt head you might want to ensure the vvl is working aswell as the rb30 blocks dont cater for the

extra oil gallery..

Edited May 20, 2008 by nizmonut

[roba]

How recent is the Autronic? The earlier ones had big issues with the standard CAS and required a change in the internals to give clean trigger signals.

Cheers

Gary

Ahh, version 1.07 from memory, yes it required a change of the trigger disk. (recent versions do not)

Ive finally got a bit more power but its still not all there.

Ill run through when has happened since last post.

1. Dealer changed some settings and ignition modifiers to stabilise spark timing (on different car as we are not in the same city)

2. Spark timing on my car STILL changing with revs, so took car to dealer and after 3/4 of day found the problem to be the spline in the cam that drives the CAS was missaligned causing a nasty vibration. Aligned as best we could but still a 2 deg shift at 3000-3500rpm.

3. Fixed a few issues - seated injectors 4mm deeper, sealed a hairline crack in the inlet manifold that was causing crap idle, replaced dead alternator.

4. The big one, checked the cam timing again with degree wheel and found in and ex to be 7 deg out. Retuned (road) with correct cam timing and got another 15% duty cycle, now up to 65% on denso 720cc injectors at 21psi. Therefore approx power 280 - 300kw.

The exhaust manifold backpressure is still 2 to 1. ie over 40psi which i really need to sort out.

Next plan is to try another turbo wastegate setup - as soon as i can find a donor...

Unfortunately speedo drive has sheared off and gone through the gear box so ill have to sort that first. Choice.

Ill let u kno how i get on, any ideas on the backpressure would be great.

cheers

rob

Edited July 1, 2008 by roba

[Fastrotor]

Its been a while , anymore findings Roba ?

Gary