Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all..

sterday at a mates workshop we found my water pump was leaking so we replaced it and having to move the crank angle sensor, once all put back together the car wouldnt fire.. gave the plug on cas a wiggle and she fired up but not sounding to good... took it for a drive and it feels like it has about half power to what it used to have... whilst going threw the rev range seems to jerk around a little... maybe like timing advancing and retarding...??

so annoying.. thought maybe could just get a remap and a workshop to sort it out but i dont wanna be speding thousands on them searching for the issue..

is it possible to put crank angle sensor back on wrong???

any help appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/207064-rb20-driving-like-shit/
Share on other sites

i had troubles like this with my old 20, my CAS was faulty. but the most simple solution could just be you put it back on wrong, did you make sure it was in the exact same position it was on before?it doesnt need to be that far off for the car to run like shit

well it was at a mates workshop and he said it can only go on one way.. like the splines on the crank angle sensor could only be put i the same position every time... i was a tad sceptical on that but let him continue on..

iv used co2 cantact cleaner on the plugs for cas and the ignition amps and cold start and acc valve plugs but still nothing...

yeah hes right the car wont start if the its on the wrong notch. i mean you adjust your timing by twisting the sensor left and right. i cant remember which way retards it and advances. but once you have the sensor on you have to make sure its on the same angle as before, you should be able to see where the 3 bolts which hold it on used to sit to show you what position it used to be in. your friend is talking about the little notch which stops you from putting the sensor back on the wrong teeth

yeah yeah that was what i ment so we couldnt get it on the wrong teeth..

and yeah we did line the 3 bolts that you use to adjust the cas back to the exact same marks that they were on...

used to run beautifully till then... so lost with what to do?

yeah i just checked all the pins and their both perfect on the male and female plugs....

it occasionally drops idle to 400rpm then bounce up to 1200rpm when ever it wants

it is not the aac valve as iv already looked into that... it wasnt f**kin around the idle before the change water pump and timing belt...

?? :S

yeah i have my own timing lights... can anyone give the stock timing figures it should be set to...

when we put cas back on we made sure it was exact same position by finding the marks from the bolts and putting it the exact same marks... fair sure its the same but its worth a check...

how much advace does annyone run.. fair mild setup..

just got 3inch 1 resinator bleed valve pod and fuel pump...

recomened max advance??

i have bb rb25 turbo ready to go on with greddy front mount kit and nismo fuel presure reg which i will just get a different workshop to put on so they can give me a remap and tune to suit...

and one more thing..

what sort of gains have people had from ecu remaps...

i know they would iron out the power curves and that make em more reliable but what sort of gains can be expected?

cheeers yo

when we put cas back on we made sure it was exact same position by finding the marks from the bolts and putting it the exact same marks...

ah ok - thats good then - as for your other questions - lotsa info on SAU - just gotta search for it :(

probably find some good info for most of your questions

stock is 20 degrees advance BTDC @ 950 rpm. check it with your timing light. I can almost promise that the CAS wasn't put in exactly the same spot as before and your timing is now either too advanced or too retarded and is making it run poorly. check timing, loosen the 3 bolts and roate the CAS position as needed. it doesn't take much movement to affect the timing and the way the car runs.

Serious.. ffs last time I set the timing I put it at 15BTDC.. unless my tuner changed it, but I'm not touching the base timing because I've had a remap and it will likely ping its' head off!

ah damn thats not very good

I'm pretty sure my information came from the old rb20det.com site but I remember checking my timing on the PFC hand commander and also with a timing gun when I initally got the car and it did match what I had written down.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From the pictures I have when doing the job the flywheel is the same diameter, I don't think they're playing weird tricks like putting weights at the outer diameter to increase flywheel inertia or anything like that. The OEM flywheel is definitely heavier, but it's not a huge difference. Quoted weight savings of the clutch is 2 kg so I can't imagine the flywheel being lighter than ~7 kg. Kind of regret not weighing it before the clutch went into the car but as far as driveability goes I have no complaints.
    • HKS trigger kit should be very easy to integrate with a Link. It's a 36-2 crank trigger. Hard part is finding the motivation to take off the timing belt and everything on the front of the engine to install it. You also need to cut out a hole in the oil pump housing so the sensor can read the trigger wheel. Changing out the cam sensor for a 24 tooth setup is probably good enough but as others have mentioned depending on what underlying assumptions are changed it becomes more of a problem. Reading the crank state off of the cam is an abstraction that works in the general case, but if you have an edge case it makes less and less sense. There is a GTX2860 gen 2 that can take a compact 5 bolt housing so it's direct bolt on but I'm not 100% sure of what's involved. Peak compressor efficiency drops off a bit on these turbos vs -5s, 77% vs 73% but you get way, way wider region of operation. The -5s have a really strange surge line in their compressor map that is all over the place. If you think the hot side on the -5s aren't open enough you can try the Tomei T550B turbos which a local tuner seems to be happy with:
    • i need a complete tail light for my R33 GTR if you have please let me know.
    • I need a great maintenance workshop around Idaho, if you know one please let me know..
    • Hello friends, i have a good friend in Canada that looking for a good condition 1993 GTR around him please if one or know someone around you that is willing to let it go please let me know so that i can inform him.....Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...