Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all..

sterday at a mates workshop we found my water pump was leaking so we replaced it and having to move the crank angle sensor, once all put back together the car wouldnt fire.. gave the plug on cas a wiggle and she fired up but not sounding to good... took it for a drive and it feels like it has about half power to what it used to have... whilst going threw the rev range seems to jerk around a little... maybe like timing advancing and retarding...??

so annoying.. thought maybe could just get a remap and a workshop to sort it out but i dont wanna be speding thousands on them searching for the issue..

is it possible to put crank angle sensor back on wrong???

any help appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/207064-rb20-driving-like-shit/
Share on other sites

i had troubles like this with my old 20, my CAS was faulty. but the most simple solution could just be you put it back on wrong, did you make sure it was in the exact same position it was on before?it doesnt need to be that far off for the car to run like shit

well it was at a mates workshop and he said it can only go on one way.. like the splines on the crank angle sensor could only be put i the same position every time... i was a tad sceptical on that but let him continue on..

iv used co2 cantact cleaner on the plugs for cas and the ignition amps and cold start and acc valve plugs but still nothing...

yeah hes right the car wont start if the its on the wrong notch. i mean you adjust your timing by twisting the sensor left and right. i cant remember which way retards it and advances. but once you have the sensor on you have to make sure its on the same angle as before, you should be able to see where the 3 bolts which hold it on used to sit to show you what position it used to be in. your friend is talking about the little notch which stops you from putting the sensor back on the wrong teeth

yeah yeah that was what i ment so we couldnt get it on the wrong teeth..

and yeah we did line the 3 bolts that you use to adjust the cas back to the exact same marks that they were on...

used to run beautifully till then... so lost with what to do?

yeah i just checked all the pins and their both perfect on the male and female plugs....

it occasionally drops idle to 400rpm then bounce up to 1200rpm when ever it wants

it is not the aac valve as iv already looked into that... it wasnt f**kin around the idle before the change water pump and timing belt...

?? :S

yeah i have my own timing lights... can anyone give the stock timing figures it should be set to...

when we put cas back on we made sure it was exact same position by finding the marks from the bolts and putting it the exact same marks... fair sure its the same but its worth a check...

how much advace does annyone run.. fair mild setup..

just got 3inch 1 resinator bleed valve pod and fuel pump...

recomened max advance??

i have bb rb25 turbo ready to go on with greddy front mount kit and nismo fuel presure reg which i will just get a different workshop to put on so they can give me a remap and tune to suit...

and one more thing..

what sort of gains have people had from ecu remaps...

i know they would iron out the power curves and that make em more reliable but what sort of gains can be expected?

cheeers yo

when we put cas back on we made sure it was exact same position by finding the marks from the bolts and putting it the exact same marks...

ah ok - thats good then - as for your other questions - lotsa info on SAU - just gotta search for it :(

probably find some good info for most of your questions

stock is 20 degrees advance BTDC @ 950 rpm. check it with your timing light. I can almost promise that the CAS wasn't put in exactly the same spot as before and your timing is now either too advanced or too retarded and is making it run poorly. check timing, loosen the 3 bolts and roate the CAS position as needed. it doesn't take much movement to affect the timing and the way the car runs.

Serious.. ffs last time I set the timing I put it at 15BTDC.. unless my tuner changed it, but I'm not touching the base timing because I've had a remap and it will likely ping its' head off!

ah damn thats not very good

I'm pretty sure my information came from the old rb20det.com site but I remember checking my timing on the PFC hand commander and also with a timing gun when I initally got the car and it did match what I had written down.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dang. I love the little 'oil used' bingo card on the side.   🤣  Well, now they can use a box and an oil-filled goon.
    • Many many moons ago, I was chatting with Andy Wyatt, about his auto ignition tuning. One of the HUGE things he said to me, when tuning for power, right where you hit peak ignition timing for your max torque, dramatically increases NOx emissions. He was finding in testing, particularly on engines you could advance timing beyond peak torque, that backing the ignition timing off a couple of degrees only made for a small drop in torque (compared to if you keep backing it off further the same amount of degrees) but dramatically reduced NOx emissions. I'd say targetting for 14.7, and he's even mentioned in some scenarios going slightly leaner, and pulling a few degrees of IGN timing will help pass for emissions quite a lot. However, who tunes an RB for emissions
    • The main stuff from.Vibrant I see is more their intercooler piping, and everyone raving about their clamps, but when I looked it was about $150 per clamp... I was a bit   I also thought the public price SP had up was high. As Mark said, a normal exhaust shop can fab them. It was many years ago that I had a full exhaust built, but for a full turbo back exhaust, and 2 custom built mufflers, plus a high flow cat, was about $1,100, and that was fully installed, drive in, drive out. I believe SP was about $900 for 2 mufflers, just supplied   These days, I just buy the material and built it myself, because I need to stretch my $$$
    • I'm pretty sure if it's considered a gasoline powered vehicle you have to do certification against a fixed, very expensive certification fuel.  If you add two precats and then replace the main cat with two cats back to back you can get an RB26 to do 0.24 g/mi HC, 1.6 g/mi CO, and 0.3 g/mi NOx on the FTP-75 drive cycle. Found this out courtesy of California's laws at great expense. Divide by 1.61 to get g/km. So even with extra cats + precats you're blowing past the NOx limit by probably 2.3x. Probably the only way to get an RB25 or RB26 to meet euro 4 purely from an emissions per km standpoint and not durability/OBD2 requirements is retrofit at least intake side VVT, clearance the pistons to allow the full 50 degrees of advance so part throttle EGR can be maximized, and change the wastegate control from conventional 7 psi spring for example to one that is always fully open if the wastegate line is at 1 atm or higher and only close it in response to vacuum. See BMW's N54 engine as a reference for how this works. You would need to find space for a vacuum tank to function as an accumulator in this system. That way you can avoid any heat loss to the turbine as much as possible during cold start to heat the catalyst faster. Then find some way to eliminate as much as possible cold start enrichment to light off the catalyst rapidly. Maybe secondary air injection if there's no way to avoid cold start enrichment. Close coupled catalysts in the downpipe are probably necessary. I would also probably swap to EV14s, pick something with the correct spray targeting + dual cone pattern for the intake manifold you're using. EV1 style injectors to pass anything resembling modern emissions requires a very annoying air assisted injector system to break up the droplets at part throttle/idle which still doesn't work that great compared to just having smaller droplets from the injector to begin with. Realistically, you're probably going to be financially ahead if you just pay the fines instead. Or don't drive it into the city center. There's a reason why Nissan never bothered to even attempt certifying an RB for CA/US emissions. The VG30 needed external EGR on top of NVCS to pass in the 90s. Doing all of this work is also distinctly expensive and you're going to struggle to find anyone who is remotely interested in helping. 
    • I remember those, people use to steal them to make bongs.....
×
×
  • Create New...