Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if im not in a hurry i normally wait for the oil pressure to hit normal. most morning id run out side start the car up set the turbo timer to 10 mins then arm the alarm and run back in lol by the time im dressed shes nice and warm and good to go. if im in a hurry id get it wait for 1 min start driving but wont hit boost and like others say keep revs below 3000rpm

idle ur car is bad for ur engine? cant be??

Idling is not bad for your motor. Running cold is.

So (within reason) the quicker it gets up to its correct operating temperature the less wear you will get.

So sitting in the driveway for 5 minutes whilst the thing sits there running cold is bad for the motor & will undoubtedly annoy the fk out of your neighbours.

i agree, on a cold morning just letting the car sit and idle till it warms up can take much much longer than if you just drive it slow, especially if the car doesn't get kept in a closed off garage.

and also the time it takes depends on your thermostat. if your thermostat is stuffed and not closing properly, letting it idle up to temp could take an hour on a very cold morning, which isn't good for the motor at all.

when i drive to work in the morning, by the time i have been sitting at intersections, etc, the car is usually up to temp in less than 1km, and that would be no more than 3 or 4 mins. although my skyline used to take a touch longer to come up to temp.

Yeah it's a trade off between running your car cold on idle for 5mins, or driving your car cold under 3000rpm for 2mins...

Personally i drive below 3000rpm to warm mine up... and never put my foot into it until the oil temp has got above 70.

yep, very bad idea to let the car sit at cold idling for 5 mins. apart from being bad for the engine it also means that you are not getting any temp into your gearbox, diffs, brakes or clutch. so when you do finally set off your engine will be up to temp but nothing else will be.

imo the best idea is start car. take your time getting comfy etc and you should be edging out of the garage about 30 seconds after you started the car. I am the same as ferni in that I just drive it normally along (minimal boost, revs under about 3,000) until the oil temp passes 70. then you can have some fun if you want, but hold off on any real 'fangining' until oil temp is 75+. :thumbsup:

remote start while i'm brushing my teeth...

when i get in a minute later the climate control is just right, dvd is playing, cars starting to get warm and the back windscreen is demisted.

/bling

It's even more important to warm the car a little if you're running forged pistons. I usually finish breakfast, start car, brush teeth then drive away below 3k with gentle acceleration.

I read somewhere that 90% of engine wear occurs in the first 11 mins, how true this is im not sure. But judging by how much longer oil temp takes to increase compared to water temp its certainly increased my level of engine sympathy from now on...

Driving at below 300rpm may be fine for a gtst, because it wont be on boost, but for a gtr (a standard one that is) it is on boost. My car has forged pistons and I find that it wont rev really well because of co;d start requirements anyway. What I do is let it sit there for a couple of minutes till say the water temp guage reads at about 1/4 then begin to drive it, gently of course until fully warmed up. The oil temp guage in the centre, i think this is for the gearbox, will take about three times as long to warm up as your engine, but still be carefull with it until it reaches about 85 degrees.

Hope this helped.

how much it comes on boost depends on how much accelerator you give it. my gts-t would be at 13psi by less than 3000rpm if i booted it, but i could keep it pretty much off boost and drive along at 4000rpm. the more you plant your foot the more boost you are going to give it. not just the rpm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
    • I have a heap that i have collected if you want some authentic ones still. Pm me if your interested!
    • Hey lads, reviving an old thread.  As an update, since the last time replied to this thread, ive done mostly suspension. Havent touched the motor except for maintenance. Though upon changing spark plugs, found out i had splitfires pre-installed! Updates: - Got me some stock airbox top cover and snorkel to fit onto the original intake. Should be free of defects - Bought a set of R34 GT-T brakes (not installed yet, going to rebuild + respray in champion blue + white 'Nissan' text) - Bought the last set of bilsteins from @Sydneykid and had them installed. Has been making some sounds on the rear but hopefully should be sorted out after this New Year break. - Regreased front caster rod bushings (poly bushes..) - Rear upper camber arms - Whiteline sway bars (BNF27Z 22mm + BNR11XXZ 24mm).  The rear sway bars are a bit short (ive read 50mm else where) but was still able to get them in.  Anyhows, I reckon suspension is sorted now. Maybe replace bushes (do have a set of front upper control arms from SK not installed yet) but should be okay for now. From now, I'm wanting to start working on the motor, drivetrain etc etc. Still debating on the order to go on and what to buy etc but: - ECU ( Haltech or Link ( Link states that it dont support A/T or AWD functions... Can anyone attest to this? ) - Highflow turbo ( ATR43ss2 ) - Intercooler ( Not decided yet, but cant find many good afoordable ones. Toshi says to opt for crossflow Japanese. Bit difficult this one, unless I get a returnflow Blitz from JJ? ) - Injectors ( Any recommendations ? I do have a nismo FPR ( Thanks SK ) ) - Seats - Tune by either Toshi or DVS To be fair, I did consider just keeping the stock turbo and nistuning it. Sat in a mates stock N, that had something like 200kw, and I reckon that felt more than enough. Maybe I should just go this route ahhaha. Too many choices.... Planning a trip down south, so wanting to just clean things up and make sure it gets to and from in one piece. Anything else specifically I should do before ? Cheers lads  
    • Must be for the car’s lucky charm 🤷🏽‍♂️ She runs fine, but it just seems to take about 1L less. Maybe I’ll have the oil sump dropped at some point to check if there is anything 
×
×
  • Create New...