Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here goes.

RB25DET in a S13 with a Revotec electric fan sender in the top hose and 306 HDi fans.

If I leave the car to idle then it will warm up nicely, the needle will sit in the middle of the gauge and the fans will cut in - happy days your thinking !

When I drive it though the needle goes right down and I do mean right down - below the bottom mark.

Also the top rad hose always seems to be hotter than the bottom one - is this right ?

Its got a brand new Nissan thermostat in and is not loosing coolant from what I can tell. Have tried bleeding the system when hot and cold via the 10mm bolt on top of the inlet but still the same.

Has anyone else had this problem or have any ideas what it could be ?

Im starting to think there is a blockage or that the gauge sender is faulty but how can I test these along with the temp sender to the ecu ?

Pleaseeeeeeeeeeee :banana:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/207427-overcooling-issue-maybe/
Share on other sites

Top hose sends post engine, hot water to the rad, so yah, its normal.

I would think the controller is running the fans too often, or before the motor's reached its normal op temp.

Had a quick look at these Revotec setups, look pretty impressive!

Can you tweak the fan activating temperature?

EDIT: Keep in mind the cluster gauge is a three step unit. It wont show finite variants; used to stop your average commuter from freaking out cus the needle is always moving.

Your after market ECU will have a decent water temp reading fed to it from the 2 wire sender.

PFC, Autronic (assuming your from the US - AEM? :banana: will have the output there somewhere.

Find a known accurate temp reading, if your indeed too cold (u mention uv replaced the thermostat) then one would think your lecky fan setup is cooling it down too much, how ever strange it sounds.

Interesting, let us know how you go!

Edited by GeeTR
Top hose sends post engine, hot water to the rad, so yah, its normal.

I would think the controller is running the fans too often, or before the motor's reached its normal op temp.

Had a quick look at these Revotec setups, look pretty impressive!

Can you tweak the fan activating temperature?

EDIT: Keep in mind the cluster gauge is a three step unit. It wont show finite variants; used to stop your average commuter from freaking out cus the needle is always moving.

Your after market ECU will have a decent water temp reading fed to it from the 2 wire sender.

PFC, Autronic (assuming your from the US - AEM? :( will have the output there somewhere.

Find a known accurate temp reading, if your indeed too cold (u mention uv replaced the thermostat) then one would think your lecky fan setup is cooling it down too much, how ever strange it sounds.

Interesting, let us know how you go!

The fans are adjustable from about 70 - 120 degrees centigrade - its currently set in roughly the middle.

The engine is still standard and running a standard series 1 ECU. England btw :D

As for the ECU temp sensor - is there any reading / test I can do to know the temps at hot and cold so I have something to go by to get the correct operating temperature ?

the only thing that regulates temperature is the thermostat, even if you were running massive thermos constantly they shouldnt affect your operating temperature since thats is purely controlled by the thermostat. The only thing the thermos will do is give it greater cooling power to prevent overheating, not operating temperature.

My bros r33 reads 88 degrees celcuis from an electric apexi gague whether its the middle of winter and summer, so get a thermo gun (most mechanical workshops will have one) and just get them to give you a quick reading of what the coolant temp is at. If its around the 80-90 degree mark your car is fine and its most likely just a gauge or a sender. Is the thermostat just a standard nissan item? its not a nismo variant that has a cooler opening temperature?

Update time then !

Tried covering half the rad with cardboard to see what happens. Same as it was at idle but when driving the needle went about 2mm high on the gauge.

Then took the sensor off my CA18 that just came out and put that in and bingo - all SEEMS to work ok now. Not sure wether to be confused and cautious or just happy and forget about it now !

Will get the leccy thermostat at work out tomorrow - wheres the best place to check it ?

the only thing that regulates temperature is the thermostat, even if you were running massive thermos constantly they shouldnt affect your operating temperature since thats is purely controlled by the thermostat. The only thing the thermos will do is give it greater cooling power to prevent overheating, not operating temperature.

My bros r33 reads 88 degrees celcuis from an electric apexi gague whether its the middle of winter and summer, so get a thermo gun (most mechanical workshops will have one) and just get them to give you a quick reading of what the coolant temp is at. If its around the 80-90 degree mark your car is fine and its most likely just a gauge or a sender. Is the thermostat just a standard nissan item? its not a nismo variant that has a cooler opening temperature?

The fans are adjustable from about 70 - 120 degrees centigrade - its currently set in roughly the middle.

The engine is still standard and running a standard series 1 ECU. England btw :(

As for the ECU temp sensor - is there any reading / test I can do to know the temps at hot and cold so I have something to go by to get the correct operating temperature ?

A aftermarket gauge would be best, but you don't wanna hear that. If you know the C0 values, could use a multimeter on the temp sender terminal. If you don't, get ghetto on the stove top with thermometer and multimeter to find out.

R34GTFOUR is correct, its still most likely the thermostat, or the housing it sits in... even though you mention you replaced it with a NEW one.

Edited by GeeTR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, I'm trying to make this thread basically the thread with all the answers to common questions regarding specifically the RB20 DE NEO + T engine, that comes in the R34. Answers will and only should be provided by those who have done this conversion or actually have some relevant real life experience please. Please feel free to ask questions in the comments if you have any so other members can answer. I feel like this thread is really needed, especially with more Americans buying (unknowingly going to regret it too) rb20 neo r34s. My first question being - What do you guys use for tuning? I have purchased a haltech elite 2500 Plug and play kit for the rb25det NEO because the ecu plug is the same, but I am unsure if any of the pins would need to be repined to match. Second question that I see asked very often - After this conversion, did you install the boost solenoid/ actuator? I see many people doing a + T setup on their rb20 NEOs while running stock RB25DET NEO ECUs with no tune. I am wondering how they are going about doing that and consistently abusing the car because many of these people have had these untuned setups running for a very long time. That was my original plan, but my engine cuts out at 5 psi of boost using the stock ecu with no tune and no boost solenoid/actuator.
    • interesting. ive read and heard otherwise over the past year. ive been doing this +t conversion on a rb20 neo using all oem rb25det neo parts including the ECU, and im having engine cut out issues when I hit around 5 psi of boost. Everywhere/everyone ive asked has told me its because I never wired in a boost solenoid/actuator to the ecu, so the ecu isn't getting the right signal once it hits 5 psi of boost, causing the engine to get shut off.
    • Mate, I take this thread in random directions on occasion myself, so no foul I'm a old fan of MCM anyway, I like their banter, and enjoy most of the stuff they do
    • Something strange is happening. I didn't touch the car since we last spoke on the forums. Yesterday was the first day of good weather, so i took it out for about 2 hours. It started up on first crank every time about 5 times total. I literally didn't do anything to do the car.  
    • I purchased this one. Very well priced and works great. I was rough with it to see if it will last and had no issues.  Teslong Two-Way Articulating Borescope with Light, Industrial Endoscope Inspection Camera with Articulated Probe, Flexible Mechanic Fiber Optic Snake Scope Cam for Wall Automotive Engine Inspect-5FT : Amazon.ca: Industrial & Scientific
×
×
  • Create New...