Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On closer inspection Craig has a valid point. Looking at your pic the flap is off centre to the machined hole.

i second that, i would get him to increase the machined lip around the gate hole just to be sure, i reckon the left hand side is sitting up on the rough casting... not in the machined ring.

what waste gate actuator are you running?

is it the stock 8 psi one?

maybe try a heavier one say 18psi.

also with the flapper would it be possibe to do a 3 angle valve grind on it to increase the seating area?

here are some pics

**EDIT** sorry should've added i know it is leaking as i can hear it on the screamer pipe, and when i put my hand over the screamer pipe (can feel gasses) to create a seal the exhaust note changes slightly...

are you using a dump gasket? ie a ford xr6 gasket?

that seperates the wheel from the gate?

the turbo housing is divided into two section completely sep from each other

on the turbo side of the dump it has a smaller pipe weld into it so when fitted upto the turbo it pushes inside and seals even more

his using a copper crush gasket

the actuator seems to be wrong for the application seeing as you cant preload the crap out of it

at full tight it is maybe half a cm away from the arm at the arms full closed postion

this would also mean you'd have to bleed off a yeap of air via the boost controler to get the correct boost

(assuming its not running close the boost level you want just using the arm as it is)

I say buggar it and run it up again

The std screw on bit for the actuator that came with my gt3076 was too short; I had a longer one made up.

I have around 2mm preload which grabs 15psi and with the actuator at full reach allows the flap to open almost 90degree's.

2mm is approximately what the std turbo and std actuator has factory.

If you place too much preload you will experience boost creep as the for every extra mm preload you place on the gate you loose with the max opening angle.

Starting to go a little OT but what the hell. :D

The only downside with very little preload is especially with the garrett 1bar actuators with the kink in the rod is they are lazy. With just the actuator I was seeing 8psi at 2500rpm, 11psi at 3000rpm and then 15psi at 4500rpm.

With a cheap ball/spring bleeder on it it was making 19psi at 3100rpm. Thats a huge improvement in peak boost. ~1400rpm.

For myself I was told the GT30's will boost creep if you don't run with a Bell mouth or at least put some effort in to the dump pipe and design it as HKS do.

HKS have created the opening of the wastegate pipe as large as possible; this allows maximum gas flow with no hard edges for the gas to hit.

The problem with the usual 3" and 2" wastegate style dump with the GT30's is when the flap opens it is unable to open a full 90degree's which would allow the full 2" opening of the wastegate pipe to be utilized; when its open say 45degree's with reasonable preload it partially blocks that 2" opening which is why these style dumps almost always boost creep with the GT30's.

I followed the advice of who does the tuning on my car and with the std sized flapper but with a .8 rear I experience zero boost creep on the 3ltr by running minimal preload and a nice open bell mouth. Yes with out a boost controller boost is lazy but who cares thats what an ebc is for.

HKS dump opening attached.

All IMO. :)

post-382-1203905728_thumb.jpg

i ordered a 14psi actuator - so i assume that is what it is.

i'm not trying to solve the response issue etc at the moment. just eliminate the leaking - i'm coming to the belief that it possibly doesnt seal when the flap sometimes seals in a different position. (flap not fixed position)

i'm under the impression that 'if' i didn't go for the screamer setup then i wouldn't even be aware of the leaking issue...

*sighs...

Edited by huddy

plan G

grab a g clamp or similar contraption and clamp the sucker shut.

if you remove the actuator arm at the pivot point and then wiggle the flapper to see if you can feel a happy spot where it wants to shut, then clamp it shut.

this then will prove if its the gate the actuator or the dump design.

i have a sneeking suspicion that is not the wastegate but the main outlet not sealing properly.

due to not using a ford gasket.

this copper gasket you mention is something you made or the cheap crap you get from an exhaust shop.

also have you had the dump flange milled flat?

come to think about it im not sure why the dump needs the peice of pipe welded on the flange as its a different hole to the wastegate you just need a propper gasket.

thanks for all the brainstorming guys :)

on that last sentence - i agree and originally it did not have the pipe welded onto the flange... but it was leaking so first thoughts was 'must be the dump design..'

the gasket was provided by and has been used by the exhaust maker (Andrew) many times previously and had no problems whatsoever on many other setups (including screamers)

i will try the G Clamp idea to suss out if it is the actuator (i doubt it though as it's brand new, and has a LOT of tension on it already)

any more ideas for me to try??? :/

Just a quick question

How much should a wastegate flap actually open, i am using a hks 3037 pro s turbo kit which comes with the hks dump that Cubes posted a pic of, but i have noticed if i desconnect the actuator arm and try to open the wastegate flap using the part that the actuator rod clips onto i can only move it about 1cm untill it hits the dump pipe.

Does this sound normall?

Im sure it would be fine as HKS surely wouldnt have overlooked this and would have desinged the kit to work perfect.

thanks for all the brainstorming guys :D

on that last sentence - i agree and originally it did not have the pipe welded onto the flange... but it was leaking so first thoughts was 'must be the dump design..'

the gasket was provided by and has been used by the exhaust maker (Andrew) many times previously and had no problems whatsoever on many other setups (including screamers)

i will try the G Clamp idea to suss out if it is the actuator (i doubt it though as it's brand new, and has a LOT of tension on it already)

any more ideas for me to try??? :D

when the extra peice of tube was welded onto the dump flange was the flange milled flat?

the heat from welding it would have worped it to some degree.

and just so you know the ford xr6 gasket is stainless steel multi layer jobby that cost around $16

if your flange is flat and you run one of these you can completely remove it from the problem list.

Hi Dangerman

well once again i 'assumed' it was flat when the work was done...

...saying that though I JUST REFITTED IT ALL UP AGAIN...

and it is NOT leaking!

so i am completely clueless... as it seems to be inconsistent... i will keep an eye (or ear) on it to hear if it leaks again - if it does, then i'm thinking wastegate flap (when it rotates).

thanks, i will keep this thread updated.

being the waste gate is metal on metal it would either seal or not seal.

so im sticking with the dump not being 100% flat and this time you have stuck just the right amount of goop in the right spot to seal the turbine from the screamer.

glad its fixed either way.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, thumbsup from me. The distant shot of the bay just looks same-same as before.
    • Dad had a court case drag out with them from 1998 to 2004. He was in a not at fault accident, NRMA were the ones who covered the other person. They tried to blame his neck injuries on the fact he'd had an injury in 1981 on his extreme lower back where he slipped a single disc right near the bottom. Had been all cleared from that injury for years. This accident destroyed his shoulder, and f**ked a heap of discs in his neck, and he still has major problems with it to this day. Sarah's sister while on her L plates had a small Suzuki Alto, she had stopped to give way to an ambulance, and someone changed lanes behind her because there lane was also slowing, and rear ended her at 80km/h. (She had been stopped for a few seconds already too!). Car was completely f**kED. NRMA sent the vehicle around to 3 different workshops as they kept claiming "We believe it can be repaired, and not written off, we just need to find the correct workshop". It took 3 months, and a lot of arguing before they'd concede and wrote it and paid out. About two years later her sister had a Lancer, someone pulled out of a stop sign without stopping (in an 80 zone). Her sister swerved, hit the front of the other persons car (Instead of dead t-boning the drivers door), which ramped her Lancer, and made it roll multiple times down the road. It hit every panel on the way through. Her sister had slid her self out of the car, and remembers the ambos walking to the accident (They'd been sitting at a set of lights just down the road and witnessed it) and they were saying "Well, this ones going to be a fatality, no way you can walk away from that". Well, she did. And then NRMA sent two assessors out to look at the car, both of which wrote it off. They tried to send another assessor out, except a HUGE uproar was raised, and they FINALLY paid it out. That was on a car, that had damage to EVERY panel, you could see from 100m away the whole car was also twisted, roof bowed etc. Nah, we'll try get out of needing to payout on a $10,000 car... Her sister ended up with major shoulder reconstructive surgery being required, and was permanently limited in her ability to do her job as a nurse after that, as she can't (And was told before surgery too this would be guaranteed to happen) regain full strength in that shoulder. However, there was no choice to not have it, as she could barely use her arm, which was her dominant one, and was in near constant major pain. (And she's the type of person that would try and walk off a broken leg!) NRMA did the biggest run around on the personal injury side too for about 18 months, even to the point of trying to put 100% blame of the accident on Sarah's sister, even though the other driver admitted she didn't look, and didn't stop, and was charged by the police. Sarah used to have a Barina insured with them. It was a policy setup, paid all 12 months in advance. At the end of the 12 months, Sarah was living with me, I reviewed the renewal, it clearly stated "If you do nothing, your policy will cease on XYZ date". We did nothing, as we moved her insurance in with all of mine and I was with Shannons. We find out 10 months later, NRMA decided, because he DAD had a car insurance policy at the same address as what Sarah's mailing address was (Garaged address had been changed), that they'd put Sarah's (What should have been non existent policy) onto her Dad's month to month charges on his credit card. We had to jump through hoops, to get a refund. They didn't care that we actually found the letter that said "If you do nothing, your policy will cease" they made us prove we had NON COMPULSORY insurance else where before they'd issue the refund, and after they agreed to the refund, it still took another 6 weeks and 3 more phone calls for them to actually process it. They also had two insurance claims from storm damage, and they were an absolute cluster to get resolved as well (one vehicle, one house). Some how, up until about 3 years ago, her parents were still loyal to NRMA too, and we were like "How the hell are you so loyal to staying with them, when other places are so much cheaper, and they've f**ked you over every time you've ever had to make a claim?"
    • I got the four AN10 fitting welded up to the cam covers and started up making the head to sump breather/drain lines. The front passenger side cover I used a 45 up top and a 90 at the bottom into the stock VCT head drain spot (3/4" BPST to AN10 adapter) thats unused on the RB25DET NEO with some speedflow flame shield to protect it from the manifolds heat.   back passenger side was a 90 up top with some flame shield and 45 at the sump end. The rear drivers is 45 at both ends   the front drivers fitting is capped off for now but ready to go if i want to try moving the breathers around. I was told by the fabricator to leave all the welds raw for now to make sure there are no pin hole leaks. A lot of cleaning up, re bundling looms and degreasing to go as well as final assembly on the cam cover baffles. The first real test will be 28th March at a Circuit event. added complexity and more spots for leaks but overall looks relatively neat imo
    • Yeah i think the dash needs to come out. To get the loom or maybe just climate control and radio cluster. My mirrors are done i think the motors don’t work so well after flood haha i need the ac fan, you said you wanted to keep it for your 31 and interior loom not including boot. The wiper motor. I’m not sure how good the window surrounds are on the exterior on the pintara.  I will message you to get your bank details shortly 
    • Just another barrier put up to stop cars being modified. When we're all driving Chinese sewing machines, you won't want to modify it anyway, and you'll likely already have slashed your wrists and be locked up in a padded room for your own protection.
×
×
  • Create New...