Jump to content
SAU Community

New Rb26 In With N1 Turbos, Running Stock Boost - Feels Like Normal Rb26dett


Recommended Posts

Hey guys, are these r34 n1's suppose to handle more boost than the stock setting, as ive just put in a rb26dett motor to replace my blown one from the r33, and the new engine feels the same - cant tell the different at all....though it is running stock boost right now - im not going to up the boost till my fuel pump and injectors + tune goes in, and until i know the new motor is all OK.

so you've put in a stock RB26 with N1s which are pretty close to stock, and your complaining that it feels stock? N1's are the factory steel wheeled turbos from memory, so yes you can run alot more boost when you get the injectors/tune

Not that I have 34n1 (i have 33 type non bearing n1s, 32 gt-r) but my car feels like a slug on stock boost, a standard car would be faster. But the difference at 1.2 bar is amazing, wait till you get some boost into these turbos, you should make some serious power!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah. I believe the fear of annealing the alloy and weakening it, Every online discussion has someone saying it's bad and potentially a risk when powder coating forged wheels.  
    • I'm interested if anyone agrees with what you've said, and can give a good reason. Temperature of powder coating should be below any temperature you'd use to alter the wheel structure.  Powder coat typically 200 to 250. Annealing if that's what people are claiming would be occuring, starts at 300, and depending on the alloy, can need even up at 400+.   That's the only part I can think of that could cause an issue that people are believing it's from the rim losing hardness and becoming too soft.
    • Negative probe should be on the cars chassis. Positive on the wire.   Start as said above by unplugging everything (unplug the lights, and switches. Now at the switch, there is a wire from the fuse, to the switch, so out your positive on that terminal. It should read open circuit. If it reads something, especially a stupid low value, the short is somewhere between the fuse and the switch. If that's fine, now put the positive probe on the wire that goes to the headlight (at the switch plug). If it reads stupid low, the fault is from the switch, to the headlight.   Another quick test, is take the whole LED light setup from the left, and plug it into the right side, does it still blow the fuse? If you put the right hand side led light setup on the left hand side wiring, does the left hand side wiring now blow?  If the blowing fuse swaps from right to left doing this, your LED lights are the issue.
    • Anyone know if it's a problem to powder coat forged alloy wheel centers (Rays/Volk GT-C). some say it's bad and can damage the alloy, some say it's not a problem.
×
×
  • Create New...