Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

i just had a brand new set of toyo T1R 255 on rear and 235 fronts put on.

everyone seem to be saying they are grippy for street tyres.

i am slipping every time when i put the pedal down. even on 4th gear. the light on the dash keeps popping up... do i need to drive it for another few hundred kms b4 it will start to get grippy?

or do i need bigger tyres? 265 maybe?

my car does not have huge power. i do understand if the wheel spins on first n second but this goes straight to 4th gear.

shed some light please.

cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/207483-wheel-spin-even-on-4th-gear/
Share on other sites

dynoed the other day 280rwhp. tat why i am curious aswell. its not a huge power, but y the "SLIP" light keep popping up.

was driving on the freeway yesterday n when i drop to 3rd & 4th, pedal down it slips. every single time.

I dunno how you could be spinning in 3rd or 4th with 280rwhp mate. I have cheapy nangkang 245s on the arse of mine and it wouldn't spin even in 2nd. Stab the clutch yeah sure you get a bit but wouldn't 'spin'. That's with 270rwhp in a lighter car.

are you refering to the slip light on your tacho as in an Active LSD?

slip light on the top of the tacho.

the car is a r34 gtt and it comes with the tsc(traction control)

Edited by lcy

How stiff are your springs?! lol

I'd take a guess here and say your traction control may be playing up.. when the light comes on, can you actually feel the rear wheels spinning? or is the SLIP light coming on with no wheelspin? May be a fault. It's also possibly something to do with your ABS as the wheel speed sensors can affect the TCS.

Why don't you turn traction control off and see that your wheels won't spin....in any gear for that matter unless you clutch dump it or power over in a corner, especially with T1R's. Otherwise it's probably as stated already and your clutch could've seen better days.

edit: added info

Edited by KeyMaker

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...