Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Veilside is Body Kit company in Japan who make the kits for Nissan / Toyota / Honda / Mazda / Mitsubishi / Subaru etc.

R32 GTR Veilside Version is just a R32 GTR with one of the Veilside bodykits with Veilside aftermarket parts, like inlet plenums, exhausts, wheels and fuel injector systems etc.

http://www.veilside.com/veilsideusa/frames.html

Check the website out.

Hope that answers your question...

hmms.... an example of bolt on arches gone wrong. wait.... bodykit gone wrong.

Genuine V-Spec Front lip is hard to find, but I was happy to get the one supplied by Car Mate here in Villawood Sydney on website. It was a perfect fit. I was cautious to make them 'fit before I buy' but my only complaint was that they attached it with bolts and later on my panelbeater/painter replaced these with speed-clips which helps with servicing and checking.

Looks like you're upgrading your R34 GT-R - looks nice and the stoppers must be excellent.

If you're in need of a HKS Crank Damper Pulley as recommended by Andy Butler's manual on GT-R, let me know as I have an extra one that's new. Extra HP will also be obtained because the fan is replaced by a thermo etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Glad it all went smooth. How long did the tuning process take?
    • Yeah that was kind of the same feedback my tuner gave me.  the boost tee is until I can sort out my plan for the electronic boost controller and what I’d get, where I’d mount the dash etc.  I’m happy with this until I can figure it out. Not a big fan of the A-pillar gauges. I’d like to get a clean install of the boost gauge - something digital like GFB.  Something like that might fit neatly where the ashtray is and look clean. I feel like replacing the OEM triple gauge is a bit extreme for a weekender like my skyline. And it’s not making crazy power to need all the additional sensors/gauges. 
    • I'm about to swap my box to Tremec T56 Magnum F & initially thinking of re-using my DCS twin plate (can get it re centred for the bigger spline) but it's been called out the box will be noisy (rattle) as the clutch is unsprung.  So I'm doing as much research as possible. I'm not so worried about holding the power as I'll go the track version which on paper will hold the maybe 1000hp I make. It's the longevity I worry about. DCS told me they don't use a sprung centre as it's just something that can break. The uni clutch has a very complicated sprung centre. Any one had or heard about any issues with it failing? Thanks in advance.
    • Auto is at least 10% (from my real, actual experience with different torque converters and manual on the same setup) ~185rwkw at 11.6psi (peak!) is entirely what one would expect without a FMIC or anything else on the intake, it does bleed off towards the higher RPM so it's what, 9psi there? Note: There is nothing that can be done about this with a manual boost tee. If you want to hold it steady and gain more top end, well - You will need electronic boost control.....
    • This makes sense. I have 2 so I'll just choose the least favourable child to perform the task.  If all turns to shit, I've still got a spare.  Win-win!
×
×
  • Create New...