Rb25det Questions

[Guest RaceBreed25DET]

Hey All,

Alright i got a few things to be clarified:

I am pre-planning the modifications for my future R34GT-T lol which i will own as soon as june!

I am aiming for a 300rwkw power range. As much as this wont be possible on the stock RB25DET, well it can be possible but dont want to murder the car over time. So to the question will i need to forge my motor and if so what prices will i be looking at just for parts and additionally what be the labor costs.

BUT say 300kw will be "ok" to run on the stock motor how long will it be able to take the abuse considering it will be a WEEKEND car only so driving will be twice a week. I dont know guys i need your opinions/advise's.

Cheers

[jase-r34]

How deep are your pockets for this project??

If it were me aiming for 300rwkw I would do it properly and do the internals first.....

Just my opinion.

[R31Nismoid]

How long is a piece of string?

Only response for questions that cant be answered mate (and they've come up soooooooo many times).

[STATUS]

ive seen cars make that power for years.... and others last only a few months, there are just too many variables to answer it simply. Tune, oil, kms etc all play a part in longevity.

[GeeTR]

GeeTR says that if you want good response, you'll need a smallest turbo you can fit, that makes the power you want, then put yourself at the pointy end of the compressor map... which means 1.5bar +

Spend 5h on SAU looking around, talk to your preferred tuner if your not keen on planning it yourself, then rebuild your motor.

300rwkw at high boost pressures, means your using a turbo thats small and sharp; a butt load of fun on the street.

Congrats on purchase, you must be stoked

Edited February 24, 2008 by GeeTR

[Guest RaceBreed25DET]

Cheers for the replies.

GeeTR, No i havent purchased it yet will be purchasing in June.

Jase-R34: Well applying for 35g loan will purchase r34 for around 25g leaves me 10g in the pocket may be even 1-2g more saved.

This is my plan so far.

Wheels:

20*8.5 HP Design - Gold -$2,600.00

Engine:

Muffler:

XforceVarexMuffler - $500.00

Straight Through System - $700.00

Blow-Off Valve:

GFB Deceptor Pro - $733.95

Engine Management:

Apexi Power FC Computer with Hand Controller - $1,600.00

Apexi AVC-R Boost Controller - $765.45

Engine Internal Hardware:

Arias Forged Piston Kit - Nissan RB25DET 20-over - $1,480.00

Crower Steel Billet Connecting Rods - Nissan RB25DET - $2,203.95

Fuel Management:

BOSCH 044 600hp External EFI Fuel Pump - $344.00

As you can see ^ thats only those two listed in the engine internals section and total altogether is: $10,583 without installation/labor.

Now i have to decide weather i should get those in the list or spend the money on the rebuild/forgies that way i know im starting off with a tougher and healthier motor and slowly build my way up with the mods.

What do you guys think

Edited February 25, 2008 by RaceBreed25DET

[MR 33]

Just wait till you actually get a car before you decide how much everything costs. Those prices are pretty steep, shop around.

[Bliksem]

You'd honestly have to consider weather it would be cheaper to sell the RB25DET as a complete motor and run an RB30 by the time you go to the expense of fitting forged internals etc. a GT35R will get you to 300kw with room to expand. If you still want 300rwkw but with more low end a 3076, or GT3082r (aka 3040) would be a good trade off.

[sl33py]

I agree on the 'wait til you've got it' front. Have you driven this kind of car before? 140-150rwkw might be enough for you for a while.

Anyway, going by previous car purchases (performance cars OR not): Allow 5-10% of the cost of the car in repairs in the first 2 years. Something WILL break, regardless whether you mod it or not. That's been my experience so far.

Then WRT mods: You'd be looking at another 3-4K or more in labour if you're having all that stuff done. It may be because I'm at work and none of the pics you've added are coming up, but I don't see anything about suspension or clutch. Add another 2-4K depending how far you go with them.

By the way, before you apply for a 35K loan (like I did), please be aware that most of the major banks have 30K as a glass ceiling that people without "assets" can borrow. And by assets, they mean if you don't own land, or a (resaleable) car, or stocks or anything, and you don't have a LOT of disposable income, it's HIGHLY unlikely they'll lend you over 30K. And rejected loan applications from one institution impact on applications to other places. Just sayin', cos that's what I found and ended up going through a (knee) broker ( ), you might be in a different situation.

Because 3 years ago, I had the same wonderful dreams you currently have: My R33 GTST (so same engine as what you'll be getting):

Car: 25k (bit more than should have paid, but was close and in pretty good nick)

Instantly needed new coilpacks (fault was hidden by the seller, only figured it out a few months later), 500

Water pump and radiator were knackered after my first really 'spirited' drive, few hundred

Front rotors had signs of cracking after 1 year, 500

About a year ago the suspension was found to be on the front bump stops + other issues, 2K

And none of this was power upgrades or appearances etc (which I have also done, but they add up to way more than the boring 'fixes').

Get the best car you can afford to, keeping 10% money spare. If nothing falls off/blows up in the first year, THEN think about upgrading it. Just bare in mind that upgrading one thing often breaks other bits.

Ever thought of just buying an R33 GTR? If you look hard, you *might* find one for 35-40K You'd have a bit more power than a 25DET, and the GTRs are built a bit stronger. Plus, you hopefully wouldn't feel the urge to upgrade it for the first year (if you do.... eyes bigger than your stomach ).

Edited February 25, 2008 by sl33py

[TTT]

Don't take this the wrong way but I have a few questions.

How long have you had your license and have you had a turbo rwd car before?

Not trying to put you down.

But when I saw this..

20*8.5 HP Design - Gold

and this

GFB Deceptor Pro

and then this

RaceBreed25DET

I immediately assume that you have just finished your Provisional License, have never owned a rwd turbo car or Nissan of any sort.

I also assume you've done some research on these forums or car mags as you've bothered to get details and price of correct pistons.

If you have never owned a turbo rwd car before, then may I just suggest that you buy the car first and do the usual simple mods.

exhaust, filter, cooler, boost and ecu to tune.

on an R34 GTT, the above will give you about 220rwkw.

That is a fair whack of power.

probably enough to run a 12 second pass.

replacing injectors and turbo and AFM will get you to the next level of about 250-260rwkw.

that is serious power for most if not ALL street cars.

even at that level, unless you have great suspension and really good quality tyres of at least 255 wide, you are going to struggle for traction on most gears.

And I might also mention that at that level, you haven't needed a rebuild etc etc.

you will need clutch and suspension and wheels and tyres etc which you don't seem to account for in your $10K spending money.

there are a few people with this sort of power.

it might be a good idea to have one of them take you for a spin in it.

of course, if you have already had that sort of power and have had rwd turbo cars, all of the above is wasted intrweb space..

[delljit]

is the $700 bov really necessary? id figure a clutch would be better allocation of funds assuming its manual i guess. and if it isnt manual i probably wouldnt spend money on a bov either

[sl33py]

Don't take this the wrong way but ... all of the above is wasted intrweb space..

Think this would have been just as effective lol

[Guest RaceBreed25DET]

Tell you what guys the advise's you are throwing at me is really good and i appreciate it.

sl33py you are right about things breaking after all its a 98 model 10 years if somthing hasnt broken with a previous owner then your in for it. - cheers for the wise advise especially about the loan stuff.

Delljit: Ummm for me it's really really necessary its kind of a wank factor but two main things cops love pulling you over for is bov & exhaust.

GTST: Yes i admit the error with the extra e in breed lol and also your F****n good with the assuming shit lol Yep im on my P's and will be on my full license in april and no dont start feeling sorry for the future r34 im getting i have learnt my lesson with the last two fwd (yes you have my approval to laugh ) i have written off. Yes with all the advise on here its best for me to get comfortable with the stock power then work from there.

Two questions though GTST: Whats wrong with those wheels..the sizes may not be correct but i had the info as a base and also what is wrong with the bov, its volume controllable i know its bit of a wank factor but it most likely will save my ass when cops are around.

oh and btw this was in no way a waste of interwebz space lol all of you guys have have made me choose the right decision.

Edited February 25, 2008 by RaceBreed25DET

[Guest RaceBreed25DET]

Also guys just because ive listed all those things are more important that the ones not mentioned. No doubt i will be doing mods in a proper order.

Other questions is: i love turbo lag lol yeah call me weirdo but i just love the feeling where you hit the pedal to the floor and all i is doing is pumping out the motor power and then around 3500rpm it pulls like crazy, i guess i like more torque than power what setup will make me achieve this im guessing bigger turbo due to longer time to spool n shit.

[Guilt-Toy]

there was a guy on the M5 forums that posted up something like this. Don't repeat it.

[Az_StrYdeR]

With the BOV, its really not needed... The standard one is quite sufficient, and if you need a larger one later get one off a GTR

It looks to me like you like a bit of car bling, so I assume that you will eventually stretch some tyres on your rims to get some JDM offset, so look at getting 9.5" rims for the rear, and you will need the money from your BOV to cover them.

Can I ask what your previous fwd cars were?? I went from an S12 (rwd) and with standard power it took a couple of months to get a good feel with the car and its power, so take your time on the mod front unless you want another write-off on your hands. its not a race! lol

[Guest RaceBreed25DET]

there was a guy on the M5 forums that posted up something like this. Don't repeat it.

Nope not me only a member of this site.

With the BOV, its really not needed... The standard one is quite sufficient, and if you need a larger one later get one off a GTR

It looks to me like you like a bit of car bling, so I assume that you will eventually stretch some tyres on your rims to get some JDM offset, so look at getting 9.5" rims for the rear, and you will need the money from your BOV to cover them.

Can I ask what your previous fwd cars were?? I went from an S12 (rwd) and with standard power it took a couple of months to get a good feel with the car and its power, so take your time on the mod front unless you want another write-off on your hands. its not a race! lol

those two fwd cars were a Honda Accord and a Celica

[jase-r34]

Keep it stock for a few months at least first is my suggestion. I've just been through the same thing.....gone from owning slow fwd cars to my first turbo RWD car....my GTT

Even standard they are quick enough and i highly recommend driving it round until you get used to it.

If you want to do cosmetic mods first then go for it. The BOV is a waste of money IMO as well...

After you get used to the stock power just do what GTST said (he seems to know his shit ), and 200rwkw will be great fun!

And trust me 10K won't go far, especially if you're buyin rims n tyres as well as performance mods.

But overall you will love the 34 when you get it, I know I do!!

[Guest RaceBreed25DET]

Keep it stock for a few months at least first is my suggestion. I've just been through the same thing.....gone from owning slow fwd cars to my first turbo RWD car....my GTT

Even standard they are quick enough and i highly recommend driving it round until you get used to it.

If you want to do cosmetic mods first then go for it. The BOV is a waste of money IMO as well...

After you get used to the stock power just do what GTST said (he seems to know his shit ), and 200rwkw will be great fun!

And trust me 10K won't go far, especially if you're buyin rims n tyres as well as performance mods.

But overall you will love the 34 when you get it, I know I do!!

Yeah man decided just that and i agree GTST knows his shit honestly i cannot wait for june!! Loved 34's since year 10 now it's been 5-6 years finally this is the year!!

[TTT]

GTST: Yes i admit the error with the extra e in breed lol and also your F****n good with the assuming shit lol Yep im on my P's and will be on my full license in april and no dont start feeling sorry for the future r34 im getting i have learnt my lesson with the last two fwd (yes you have my approval to laugh ) i have written off. Yes with all the advise on here its best for me to get comfortable with the stock power then work from there.

Two questions though GTST: Whats wrong with those wheels..the sizes may not be correct but i had the info as a base and also what is wrong with the bov, its volume controllable i know its bit of a wank factor but it most likely will save my ass when cops are around.

oh and btw this was in no way a waste of interwebz space lol all of you guys have have made me choose the right decision.

I wasn't refering to the spelling error.. I was refering to you thinking the RB stands for Race Bred. It doesn't. I stands for nothing. other wise SR20 would be known as SOMETHINGS RATTLING...

What's wrong with those wheels are the size.

20 inch wheels are for Gangstas on their hummers.

8.5 inch wide wheels are for gangstas who can't get wide wheels on their cars due to the fact that they got such large diameter wheels (20's y0!)

Performance wheels need not be larger than 18x10.

in most cases where you haven't got brake discs bigger than what stock Brembo's are, 17's are fine.

17x9 on the rear and 17x8 on the front are perfect for 255 on the rear and 235 on the front.

this gives great traction, and doesn't throw off the speedo reading.

AND, you can get good quality tyres for cheap compared to 20x8.5.

You answered your own BOV question there..

the stock item is a good thing.

You'll see posts by user The_Mafia on here about his 314rwkw using stock bov.

And I will guarantee that if you have a electronic noise adjusting, coffeee making, $700 bov in your engine bay, set to 100% plumback and the cop looks at your engine bay, you will receive a defect notice..

some guy on these forums has just started a thread about it and how he was defected for it.

same magical bov too.

I will not ask how you wrote off 2 underpowered fwd cars.

however, I am curious to know if you have ever been in a skyline, driven a skyline, and driven a skyline in anger.

if so to any of the above, what motor and power?