Car Died Last Night

[R338OY]

I changed my stock R33 pump to a Bosch 040 yesterday and it all hooked up fine, drove it around for about and hour. There weren't any issues until in the evening the car just died and wouldn't start again. It had plenty of fuel, the starter was working, it just wouldn't start.

All the fuses under the driver's side dash were fine. BUT i noticed the pump wasn't priming anymore so i'm guessing it's power related. I thought of taking it out and hooking it up to a 12v battery to see if it still works.

Anyone know what the issue is here?

Why would it work fine then just die?

Thanks!

Edited February 25, 2008 by R338OY

[R31Nismoid]

without checking the pump has voltage, pretty hard to tell

[DECIM8]

You check the fuses mate? perhaps something was not installed correctly?

[R338OY]

without checking the pump has voltage, pretty hard to tell

I'll test the pump itself of course. How would i go about checking voltage going TO the pump without being able to run the car to a workshop?

You check the fuses mate? perhaps something was not installed correctly?

Yeah the fuses were all ok. I know it was installed correctly because the guy that did it for me has done two 040's before mine.

[godzl1975]

have u taken the pump out?? could be loose wire inside the tank or a busted fuel hose line inside the tank..thats what happened to mine...hope that helps.

[R31Nismoid]

I'll test the pump itself of course. How would i go about checking voltage going TO the pump without being able to run the car to a workshop?

Just grab a multimeter mate and measure when the car is running whats flowing through the wires, easy as pie.

You also want to have it running more than 12V (refer to the FI Guide sticky about direct feed wiring for fuel pumps).

So that you get the most flow outta the pump

[HKS_R34]

yeah easiest way is to hook the power wire connected to your fuel pump up to a mulit meter and check.

Alternativly you could always switch back your original fuel pump to check.

[govich]

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3382664

[R338OY]

Thanks for the replies guys.

I found a blown fuel pump fuse in the boot (i was looking at the wrong fuse box before), and put another one in and the pump primed. Relief!

BUT what to do now? I read the 'No voltage at fuel pump' thread (thanks Govich) and i'm wondering how to solve this. For my limited electonic knowledge, the pump relay is after the pump fuse, so what's making it blow?

[govich]

Thanks for the replies guys.

I found a blown fuel pump fuse in the boot (i was looking at the wrong fuse box before), and put another one in and the pump primed. Relief!

BUT what to do now? I read the 'No voltage at fuel pump' thread (thanks Govich) and i'm wondering how to solve this. For my limited electonic knowledge, the pump relay is after the pump fuse, so what's making it blow?

So it's blowing the fuel pump fuse as soon as it's replaced? check the wiring to the fuel pump, it might be grounding on the tank or similar.

Try this: get your multimeter, chuck it on V (MAKE SURE it's measuring voltage not current), put one end on your battery positive and the other on the positive wire to the fuel pump (with the ignition off). If it reads 12V or close, the wire is grounding somewhere. Do this after putting a new fuse in (with the keys out of the barrel).

definitely DON'T try giving the pump a direct feed from the battery...i'm gonna edit that into the other post..

Edited February 25, 2008 by govich

[R338OY]

So it's blowing the fuel pump fuse as soon as it's replaced? check the wiring to the fuel pump, it might be grounding on the tank or similar.

Try this: get your multimeter, chuck it on V (MAKE SURE it's measuring voltage not current), put one end on your battery positive and the other on the positive wire to the fuel pump (with the ignition off). If it reads 12V or close, the wire is grounding somewhere. Do this after putting a new fuse in (with the keys out of the barrel).

definitely DON'T try giving the pump a direct feed from the battery...i'm gonna edit that into the other post..

The original fuse lasted a couple of hours before blowing. I'm guessing the same as you, that the wiring is grounding somewhere. From looking at the pump i can't see how the wiring touches the tank, but it must be.

So you reckon hook the +ive wire between the battery-> +ve pump terminal and measure the voltage?

If it is grounding somewhere what's the best bet? Redo all the wiring to the pump?

[govich]

Just make sure the in-tank wiring is well insulated and not exposed anywhere and you should be fine. It could be that the pump moves around a bit and any exposed bit of wire touches part of the tank. Although i do think this is unlikely.

If it's not any of the wiring inside the tank i'd try running a new wire from the fuel pump relay to the positive terminal of the pump (i forget which terminal of the relay goes to fuel pump positive, check the diagram in the other thread, or just follow the wire colour). All you have to do is make sure you have the right wire, snip it close to both ends, run a new wire (doesn't have to go through the same physical path as the stock wiring) and see if it blows again. Next step would be fuse to the relay, then battery to fuse etc.

So you reckon hook the +ive wire between the battery-> +ve pump terminal and measure the voltage?

Do NOT do this.

Connect the two ends of a multimeter set to voltage ONLY, not an actual wire.

If you connect a plain wire to the battery and there's a ground somewhere, things will get ugly.

Edited February 25, 2008 by govich

[R338OY]

You also want to have it running more than 12V (refer to the FI Guide sticky about direct feed wiring for fuel pumps).

So that you get the most flow outta the pump

How do i keep it above 12v when the system voltage is varied automatically depending on injector demand?

Just make sure the in-tank wiring is 1) well insulated and not exposed anywhere and you should be fine. It could be that 2) the pump moves around a bit and any exposed bit of wire touches part of the tank. Although i do think this is unlikely.

If it's not any of the wiring inside the tank i'd 3) try running a new wire from the fuel pump relay to the positive terminal of the pump (i forget which terminal of the relay goes to fuel pump positive, check the diagram in the other thread, or just follow the wire colour). All you have to do is make sure you have the right wire, snip it close to both ends, run a new wire (doesn't have to go through the same physical path as the stock wiring) and see if it blows again. Next step would be fuse to the relay, then battery to fuse etc.

1. I'm pretty sure they wires are free of contact with anything else

2. It's actually wedged in the tank and doesn't move (R33 tank is wierd shape)

3. You reckon try this after using the mutimeter? Hmmm, as with no.2 the pump is a little hard to remove now it's wedged in there.

So the new wire from pump relay to pump +ive is basically grounding the pump? Trying to bypass any kinks between the relay and the pump?

[BAMR33]

Has it blown another fuse? If not the same thing happened to me, primed it for the first time and it blew fuse, replaced the fuse and it hasn't blown since. Otherwise yeah it's probably earthing out somewhere.

[R338OY]

Has it blown another fuse? If not the same thing happened to me, primed it for the first time and it blew fuse, replaced the fuse and it hasn't blown since. Otherwise yeah it's probably earthing out somewhere.

I thought of replacing the fuse and leaving it but i'm expecting to blow it again and being stranded somewhere next time.

It blew for a reason so i'd rather test it out to be sure.

[R31Nismoid]

How do i keep it above 12v when the system voltage is varied automatically depending on injector demand?

Read the link in the guide - tells you how to wire it properly so that wont happen - plus the stock wiring is crapola and wont let the volts get there

[R338OY]

Read the link in the guide - tells you how to wire it properly so that wont happen - plus the stock wiring is crapola and wont let the volts get there

I'm going to call Unigroup tomorrow and ask them what they know about increasing pump voltage and the pump fuse blowing. I'll see what they reckon and maybe switch a fuse over to take it to their workshop.

I'll post up here and let you guys know the progress.

Thanks heaps for all the advice