Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yea....shit i forgot about that...

i need to do that too, fill in the holes

Some freinds say they got someone to weld it then grind it smooth and flush again. But i don't kno anyone who can do this for me in such a sort amount of time. Is there a easier and quicker way that does the job? like. does silicon work? coz a different wing is going on it laterz. So u won't be able to see it. Plz help us...anyone?

  • Replies 82
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

F^uck....just looked u'r pic.

U'r going well huh? everything going right.

but man. you mean i'll hafta see the car striped down like that?

How do you get the dash off??? Like the top part?

Oh and also. do u have a sunroof? I'm finding it hard to take off that wind break thing. have no idea how it goes off. Help for that will be great as well. And do you guys think, with the sunroof, u need to take off the rails and stuff? becoz if u won't, the top carpet part mite get sprayed on, and the glass doens't fully go in so u can't spray some parts without it off,,...i think. But then..how do u take that off??

But yea craved, how much more work u have to do be4 they spray it?

<<>>

yeah 400R i still have to re-fibreglass it as it got damaged when someone tried to steal the car!!

yeah you'll have to take it all the way if you want to get everywhere! i'll be spraying the front quaters off the car too to get right down into the gaps! also with the fibre glassing of the boot surround had to take the lights out (rear) pain in the ass as it stuck down with sikaflex ---- took ages to clean the area and lights!!

still got a fair bit of work to do now, but mostly with the repairing parts and the body kit, check out the pic below!

the dash isn't too hard to take out, just undo the a pillar covers and all the bolts from under neath, then you have to pop out the vents from the window and there is 3 screws under that!!! took me a while to find them, then take it out...

dont have a sun roof so cant help with that but if you mask it up well shouldn't get any paint in there!

i know that silicon wont work cause it will flex and crack the paint, will either weld it or use fibreglass, quick way would be good!

things left:

boot holes

hi fill boot lining

hi fill body kit

hi fill dents

take windows out and rub

reinforce the insides of the skirts

--then spray....

im leaving the engine bay, just think the you'll want nothing to be on the body at all... good luck with that one

Hey man. whats hi-fill?

u ever work late at night? coz i think i might tonight, kinda have to otherwise no othertime. too much stuff wiht UNi n shit.

Hey if u get someone to weld u'r boot and reasonable price. Let me kno asap ok? And also, That first pic u posted, with u'r house in the background, that looks so familar man. Like a freinds place.

Have u always lived there? And u'r driveway, is it like a cirle? drive in and turn around and it will lead back to the road agian?

<<>>

nah we built this house, and the drive way doesn't go like that!!!

what did you mean by working late tonight? i work nights so i always work late!

hi-fill is like a spray putty-- or like a thick paint usually comes with primer mixed in with it!!! just fills up the little gaps in the surface before you paint!!!!! it's like thick paint that you spray then rub back!!! best way to do it is to spray the hi-fill then spray very lightly with matt black paint then you rub it back and that will show you if there is any low spots ---- very handy!!!

i'll probly get a mate to weld the boot holes-- he did the re-inforcement on the front strut/apillar -- check post!!

had a small hairline crack up the side in front of the door so welded this plate to re-inforce it on both sides!!!

Yes i have been a spray painter for 6 years and i would love to answer any questions you have.

My skyline was originaly grey and it is now a custom blue pearl colour and i could show you if only the attachment would work.

It says the file is to large (553kb) how do i make it smaller ?

Tim.

hey looks good. You done this all u'rself huh? How much expirence did u have when u did it?

Just wanted to kno, what did u use for masking up? it looks like paper that is patched up to increase the area. Is that right?

And also, when u spray over a painted surface with primer, and paint, does it go so thick that the original lines of u'r car body will be less noticable?

aZn_RoMeO...... I'm sorry to say dude, but I feel sorry for your car.

nothing against you... I am always one for D.I.Y, but preperation for painting is just not one that the average joe should do.

I understand that you don't want a show car quality, but when you finish sanding your car, I GUARANTEE that the guy that is going to spray it is going to redo the whole thing...

Honestly, you don't seem to have an idea on what to do, and I know you are trying to learn but this is going to be an EXPENSIVE lesson for you. This I promise you.

Please don't take offence to my post. I am just thinking of your skyline and I think that you are going to ruin it.

JAPSIX...

That is one Sexy colour.

Looks brilliant in the shade and I bet even better in sunlight..

well done.

I hope this isn't a stupid question but I'll go ahead anyway.....

JAPSIX did you change the colour around the inside of the doors, boot etc so when you open them it's not completely obvious that the car has been resprayed?

The reason I ask is that I have always wanted to paint my wine red car a deep "violet crumble" blue/purple or a deep browny black colour like a celica that was on the cover of Hot 4s a couple of years ago....maybe I liked that colour because of the blond bending over the bonnet :) hehehe

aZn_RoMeO..... I have 6 years experience with 4 years as an apprentice and 2 as a tradsman.

I would have to aggree totally with GTST. Preparation is VERY important and can be VERY difficult to get right. The guy you get to put the paint on may do a really good job but if the car has not been preped just as good than it is a waste of time and it would decrease the value of your skyline. Save your money and get a pro to do it and if you are really keen to have a go than buy an old cheap car and have a go.

As for the extra primer and paint changing the lines of the car, this wont happen if the car is blocked down properly. Most of the primer you put on is blocked of again before colour is applied.

Doglet..... yes all the door shuts, boot jam ect. "were edged out"meaning coloured in the same blue. The only thing i didnt edge out was the engine bay but i did do the front guard edges, the top of the radiator support pannel and under the bonnet.

I hope to have a better finished picture of my car soon so i will post it up.

Tim.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...