Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Wrecking 1995 R33 GTST

5 speed gearbox $1300 had 116,000 k's drove fine

calipers $250 pair.... front and rear available

rotors $100 pair

hubs $50 each

front bar needs paint $100

front reinforcement $100 cut for MIC or 1 available not cut $150

drivers door shell $100

passenger door shell $100

window regulators $100 each

guards $150 each

tail lights $50 each

skyline garnish $50

3 inch exhaust cat back $250

3 x 17 inch volks wheels $500 with good tyres, 4th rim damaged

manaul radiator $70

complied damaged shell $1000

boot lid and spoiler $150

seats $200 complete

door trims $80 each

plastic dash stereo surround $60

gearstick surround $40

rear window $400

diff complete $250

rear cradle $200 with control arms

aftermarket struts and springs $150pr

clear indicators $35 pr

boot carpet from $10

cluster $150

steering wheel $100

front strut bar $100

washer bottle $30

a/c condensor $100

glovebox $30

aerial $50

rear bar $100

rear reo $100

centre console $60

brake master cylinder & booster $100

clutch master cylinder $50

window switchs $50

Many more parts PM me I may have it

Can send interstate and COD

Daniel.

post-3004-1204022848_thumb.jpg

post-3004-1204023136_thumb.jpg

post-3004-1204023720.jpg

Edited by sav
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/207880-fs-wrecking-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...