Jump to content
SAU Community

Can This Be Complied?

R33 Impul
 Share

Recommended Posts

kakimoto33 Rising Star

kakimoto33

Posted
Posted

The transmission should be no trouble as it's just about the same as what comes in the 260RS anyway, however this specific car has previous accident repair history so it would not be suitable for import to Australia ... the price is not so cheap either.

carizma Community Regular

carizma

Posted
Posted

We're the sole Victorian agent for trade car view. The 0 doesn't always mean accident on tradecarview, it just means that the dealer on tradecarview hasn't given their car a rating yet. Or, sometimes cars which are modified also get a 0 because they don't grade them. The B is the interior rating.

I'd imagine this car would be about 2 mil, not 3. I think they have both 5sp and 6sp, so as long as the gear box is factory, should be fine about that.

  • 2 weeks later...
the last streetfighter Newbie

the last streetfighter

Posted
Posted
The transmission should be no trouble as it's just about the same as what comes in the 260RS anyway, however this specific car has previous accident repair history so it would not be suitable for import to Australia ... the price is not so cheap either.

How much accident/repair history is too much?

kakimoto33 Rising Star

kakimoto33

Posted
Posted
How much accident/repair history is too much?

If the compliance workshop stick to the laws then ANY accident repair history is too much although minor paint repairs should be allowed - with that said there are workshops who will reject cars with any paint repairs just to be safe (overly fussy!) and others who will pass almost anything as long as the car stays together in their workshop (very dodgy!) ... personally I would suggest keeping well clear of any cars with known accident repairs and check all cars well before buying as most sellers will say 'no accident history' by default unless you prove otherwise.

We have dealt with many sellers from TradeCarView and found that most are very dishonest about condition at the very least, many do not even own the cars they list for sale. Some sell on behalf which means that they are guessing the condition and can't check because the car is not in their yard.

I agree that some sellers are honest and will list cars as accident grade (like this car with grade 0A) when they are unsure either way but most will do the opposite and note no accident history (like grade 4) for all cars even when they know or suspect otherwise. What I am saying is that you should not buy a car, especially from a frequently unreliable source like TradeCarView, unless you can verify the condition from an independent source - it's even more critical when the seller lists the car as an accident grade like this one.

Keep in mind that TradeCarView is a place where sellers list cars targetted specifically at international customers, these are mostly end users who will only ever buy one car and by the time it arrives in Australia and you realise that it's far below what you expected then it's too late and you can't do anything about it then.

Just in case you are still considering this car you should know that at the listed price it would end up costing around $45,000 landed and complied in Australia (at the current rubbish exchange rate), and as noted in this thread already you should be able to get a good one for around $25,000 landed and complied give or take.

  • 2 months later...
elrodeo666 Mentor

elrodeo666

Posted
Posted

J Spec..just wondering if history of repairs, would replacing a slightly dented left guard interfere with import..i hit a snow bank and got the guard replaced. It was minor but in japan they replace rather than fix.

carizma Community Regular

carizma

Posted
Posted

fine as long as it's not structural.

J Spec..just wondering if history of repairs, would replacing a slightly dented left guard interfere with import..i hit a snow bank and got the guard replaced. It was minor but in japan they replace rather than fix.
Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

and if you are bringing it back to aus as a personal import then it's not an issue at all. the 'no accident repair' problem relates specifically to SEVS compliance. since you live in japan just export the car after 12months of ownership as a personal import and you do not have to have the car complied.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...