Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

NO BANANAS FOR YOU! i turned off the ebc so I was only running 8 pound.... unless its on R&R all the time, NO FIX! the car feels sluggish and not fun.... I wouldnt be hitting R&R at 8 pound would I? One reason I think I'm not is that I am sucking through the standard airbox without the snorkel... I.e. its drawing hot as air from the engine....

Explain this again.

you are in lets say 2nd gear.

foot to the floor, you accelerate to 6000rpm?

then step on clutch to change gears.

you hear some flutter and the car jerks a little (while you are off the gas).

or does the jerking happen once you've got in to next gear and plant it again?

Hmmm.... good questions ask you....

I drive the car pretty easy most of the time. So when changing normally around town (3000rpm) I dont shift extremely quickly and you can feel the car jerk around a little bit, feels as though the pressure is bouncing around a fair bit....

When at high rpm, and quickly changing between gears, it doesnt seem to jerk as much.... Less time for the air to bounce around???

I read through the R&R stuff on other threads and I'm sure the car is suffering from it, however this seems different.

but explain the moment of the jerking (eewww)

is it, when foot is on clutch, or when in gear and accelerating AFTER changing gears?

may be a stupid question but have you taken the stock bov off and checked to make sure it's not blocked off with a plate?

or that the plumback line doesn't have a cork of some kind in there?

this is the way I see it.

1.) car jerks when accelerating after chaning gears.. as in you are back on the boost = R&R

2.) car jerks when you are off the accelerator AFTER boosting = blocked bov.

you have said that you get flutter so I am leaning towards the fact that either the bov is blocked or that the tiny bleed hole under the bov base is blocked.

either way.

a few clamps and 2 bolts and the bov comes off.

remove it and check what I mentioned.

I'm getting this same problem, it jerks when i get back onto the gas after a gear change ie: if i rev it up and dump it into the next gear i get a nice fart and jerk before i go anywhere.

Got a highflow with chipped ecu and z32 afm

getting a gtr bov this arvo so maybe it might fix it

Not sure if it's always done it

I never used to drive it that hard so i've only started to notice it recently

Nothings changed since anyway

I haven't got a working scanner atm but my afr's are pretty flat along the 11's since its tuned for 20psi and im only running 15ish

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just don't use ChatGPT or any other artificial stupidity for the equivalent of googling. Their demonstrated inability to discriminate reality from hallucination should be enough to make them totally untrusted. LLMs don't know anything and cannot think to even the smallest extent. They are just predictors of the next word, and that should never be confused with capability.
    • I think, given the usage model described in the OP, I'd never ever experience the wonders of the 400kW upgrade. What I really need is boost from 2000rpm and probably no more than 260-270rwkW. But I suspect that the highflow is not actually the turbo for that purpose, so I may in fact need to get a G25 or 30 or something right sized and very spooly. We shall see after it is tuned. I've had to back the boost and boost ramp off to stop the thing from pinging since the highflow went on, so I've been almost living the NA life for 9 months now! Injectors are recently in hand. AFM is in hand. Dyno is fixed. Just need to clear a queue of f**king Supras out of the way (and probably fit my new gearbox). So....some time this year? Lol.
    • For what I gather is a Sunday/summer car....braided is fine. You're not going to be left without a vehicle and you have plenty of time for inspection/maintenance. Oof. I wouldn't use them that way. They can probably handle the temperature** but the internal corrugations means that their flow characteristics are a bit shit. Lots of extra friction and pressure loss. Makes them flow like the next pipe size down. ** They are stainless, and the stainless can usually be at least something like 304L, which is pretty good at higher temperatures (unlike 316L, which I would use for a wrt/corrosive environment, but not a particularly hot environment). But the welding needs to be top notch. And even then, because you usually need at least one cone-seat end on them (because you can twist the hose and do up both ends at the same time unless one of them is a union) they can be prone to coming loose with heat cycles.
    • I don't have the OEM oil feed lines though and the turbo-wraparound line is torn, only has water. My plan is to get replacements for these and just connect a braided line to there. And make sure it's leak free. Hoses like these are also sometimes used to connect external wastegates, so for an EGR I think you're good using them.
    • Alright I understand. The most likely case is probably gonna be that I just keep the OEM unit in the car as long as it works.
×
×
  • Create New...