Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just a little FYI.....

I got an alarm put in for a mazda 323 astina, a rhino GT with 4 door auto window lift, back up battery siren and twin immobolisation with all round central locking including tailgate for $450.

The person that i went to see was Brenton from A & I Auto Electrics in Wetherill Park 0415 540 300... if you're out this way that is.

He has been known to do alot of imports in the area, so yeah... Things like turbo timers, boost gauges, boost controllers, microtech add ons, and other fiddly electrical things lol

Daniel from PPI. as recommended by others on the forum.

I do electronics and other nerdy stuff by trade and he hooked it all up and kept it tidy. Good enough to keep another electrical nerd happy, so I'm pretty sure you'd be happy with his work too.

Oh, and he came it did it at my work, so it wasn't a hassle for me.

  • 3 weeks later...

I'm reviving this thread. I need a new alarm for one of my cars.

I've been a big fan of the black widows and had a few, but i'm feeling frisky and might try something else.

can anyone give me feedback on the mongoose m80 and the autowatch alarms? and also who installed it, and how much did it cost including installation. and what did you think of the install?

If your in the Northern Beaches area, I can highly recommend Druery car stereo.

They did an absolute top job on my stereo (high end system), and Autowatch immobiliser install.

Ph: 9938 3988

[email protected]

I'm reviving this thread. I need a new alarm for one of my cars.

I've been a big fan of the black widows and had a few, but i'm feeling frisky and might try something else.

can anyone give me feedback on the mongoose m80 and the autowatch alarms? and also who installed it, and how much did it cost including installation. and what did you think of the install?

I have the m80 in my car and haven't run into a problem with it yet. Fortunately no one has tried to steal my car so I can't comment on the effectiveness in real life situations but I'm sure it will do the job :ermm:

I had Daniel from PPI install mine and was very happy with his service and I think it cost me all up $680 which included alarm, tilt sensors, the ultrasonic sensors and auto window closing control unit.

  • 3 weeks later...
As far as I know any sharp tool in the shed could do a killswitch for you. That's just a matter of an open/close circuit on a vital part of the car like the fuel pump, ignition... pretty much anything electronic that would stop your care from starting when the circuit is open.

A good alarm person will install a top alarm such as the m80 mongoose, make sure they mount the control unit in an extremely difficult place to find eg. not in the glove compartment and know what the hell they are doing and be able to run you through everything to do with the alarm.

Daniel came to my house on a Thursday afternoon because he was having difficult fitting me in through the day. Stayed till 10pm to make sure he finished the job and did the m80, tilt sensors, motion sensors, auto window closers and my turbo timer so he knows a good deal of stuff.

hey i know this is an old thread but so many cars gettin stolen and its time for me to get alarm system just wondering how much did ur alarm set you back and this guy your talking about is he a mobile car alarm installer?? did u buy the alarm off him or does he just install them and is he realy good.?

Do it yourself, its easy... and best of all its not a generic installation, i.e. it will be harder for a crook to match up wires because it isn't installed the same way as every other car.

and for God's Sake dont get a mongoose alarm any body...!!!! Everyone has Mongoose this and that, all a crook has to do is BYO mongoose alarm module & remote and away they go!

I highly recommend Allen Jong - Maxi Security - 0419 988 679

Couldnt agree more :thumbsup:

Theres been a few threads about him in the past.. So you can get lots of feedback from there too if you wish..

I recommened him to my friends too and they are really happy with the service!!

what should i look for in an alarm what features

i want the best.

Most important - make sure it has black wiring!!!

Also make sure the install takes more than 3-4 hours. If not, then its a quick job and simply means its been rushed!!

All other features like tilt sensor etc is just up to you if you wish to pay little extra

Edited by siddr20
  • 2 weeks later...
Do it yourself, its easy... and best of all its not a generic installation, i.e. it will be harder for a crook to match up wires because it isn't installed the same way as every other car.

and for God's Sake dont get a mongoose alarm any body...!!!! Everyone has Mongoose this and that, all a crook has to do is BYO mongoose alarm module & remote and away they go!

gosh does that mean another party has mg alarm and module and remote, he can unlock a mg alarm secured car easily??

by the way can someone put the pricing up? its seems that everyone is gd so the next to compare the price and the service offer

Call Tony on 0419 997 020, he's worked on my R33 GTSt, R33 GTR, A31 Cefiro, R34 GTR and couple of other nissans.

I've watched him installing the units everytime and the standard of work is second to none, very professional.

Tell him that John with a black Skyline sent you. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...