Making A Professional Heatsheild/pod Cover/air Box At Cost!

[WYTSKY]

Hey guys,

This is my Heatsheild tutorial as promised. It works really well in conjuction with the cai I made a few days ago, there apears to be alot more top end torque, espesically on the freeway, etc. I feel better knowing that my car is only getting fresh outside air instead of sucking up hot engine bay air, plus this is one of the few air boxes that is actually strong!

I used:

$40- Tinted perspex from Bunnings

$0- Cardboard for the template from Bunnings

$10- Rubber edge to go around the entire heatsheild itself from Clark Rubber

So all up it cost = $50

The whole process only took me about 3 hours to measure up everything and make sure the template was accurate.

Tools required:

Jigsaw

Drill

Wire cutters/Tin snips

Hole saw

Heat gun

The Steps:

1. First off, you need to make a template out of cardboard for the perspex so you know the shape of the car to minimise the amount of gaps that the sheild has. If you can't seem to get it just right don't be affraid to cut bits off, adjust them how you want and then stick them back on, this helps in creating a custom edge that will suit your engine bay better. Don't forget to make a top for the cover, if you want it.

2. Once you have your cardboard template for the body, you then need to make a stencil of it onto the perspex so you know where to cut with the jigsaw. Don't forget you will also need a hole in the heatshield for your afm and piping to fit through.

3. After you have cut out the persex, the heatsheild then needs to be bent in a 90 degree angle. To do this you need to slowly melt the perspex with the heat gun. I found a good way to make a clean bend is to cover all of the perspex with something heat resistant, except a small line where you want the bend. Slowly sweep across back and forward until you can feel the perspex is weak, then remove one side of the heat cover and slowly bend the perspex up to the other side. You might be thinking you need to sand it at this point, if you got the rubber edging, you don't need to which is really handy.

4. You will also need to drill a hole for the piping to fit through, a cheap hole saw will help greatly doing this.

5. Once you are happy with the shape and design of the sheild, you can then peel off the protective plastic so it is nice and shiny and unscratched. You then need to put the rubber edge around the sheild so it looks neat.

6. Go and try to fit it, make sure it is nice and tight or screws in somewhere with a bracket, with minimal gaps!

Hope you enjoyed!

[mark_sudakov]

hey mate, can u still hear the turbo spool, or is it very quiet?

[WYTSKY]

still loud as ever ... I assume you mean the blow-off and turbo spool yeh?

basiclly it still sounds identical

Adam

[mark_sudakov]

still loud as ever ... I assume you mean the blow-off and turbo spool yeh?

basiclly it still sounds identical

Adam

ye, great thanks

[Howie]

That looks great mate. Well done!

[WYTSKY]

Thanks for the kind words, the thing that surprised me the most was how little time it took to make. I think the templates probably took longer!

[JBonDSS]

Thanks for the kind words, the thing that surprised me the most was how little time it took to make. I think the templates probably took longer!

loooks great & reasonable simple maybe straight forward is a better word fir it

I have a query tho, how much air actually gets in there, I have the front of my R33 atm & its have rubber dust seals for behind the head lights so the whole set uup looks pretty sealed, I can see that you have a FMIC so there will a 2.5" dia hole in the body under the cover. ??

I have the same set up with a 12" k&n pod in my LS1, but there are heaps of gaps around the headlights to get air,

Have you noticed any Temp differences or restriction high up in the rev range

Cheers

James

[LatinR33]

Great work!!! Now if only someone could develop a high quality CAI using the stock snorkel and using heat resistant material like the stock airbox for an R33.

[JDM032]

i like the look of it, especially being the tinted plastic.

[WYTSKY]

JBonDSS, I get heaps of air because I also have a CAI I made... you can check out that tutorial too

Obvesouly there will always be air going to ur pod, if it was indeed air tight, your car qould seize up, so no matter how much you think your headlights seal off air, they never could completly....

In terms of air, you are assuming I have a spare Intercooler hole in there under the heatsheild? My car came as a non turbo....so I had no holes to begin with....I turboed it so We had to make one hole for the FMIC ... then for my CAI.. I had to make another 1... it is so easy...and I know about the legalities of this... but you cannot see inside the tinted perspex... and know one knows...

Power wise I didn't really notice much difference with the heatsheild by itself... with the heatsheild AND a CAI... i have noticed a fair bit more torque at top end... which is fun you can tell it works well because you can get out of the car, whip open your bonnet and feel the heatsheild on the inner side and its cool.... while the rest of ur engine is at 80+

Adam

[WYTSKY]

also thanks for the rest of the kind words... pretty rewarding knowing other skyline blokes out there appreciate your work..

Regards,

Adam

[WYTSKY]

1 Other thing... in regards to the question I keep getting asked of why is there a gap left and the rear part of the heatsheild...

I left that with a gap because I was originally going to have a spare hole there at the top to let air flow through...

why you ask?

because heat rises... and I wanted to let any left over air/ hot air.. to hopefully flow through to the rear and escape while my pod continues to get fresh cold air...

Adam

[GeeTR]

Tinted perspex looks trick!

Nice result man!

[WYTSKY]

thanks bud,

hard to keep original when everyone else has done it before you

[JewJitsu]

Would it be unwise to make some thick metal heatshield with massive heatsinks stuck to it ?

[Astro Bear]

Top job mate, well done.

[WYTSKY]

Thanks for the kind words, it has been working really well lately..especially with the really cold weather and the icy cold air going straight into the engine via CAI and the heatsheild keeping the hot air away :)

[GTR91]

I would love to get separate temp readings from both inside the engine bay and inside the heat shield to see what the difference is.

Either way, it looks funky

[jutstar]

Nice work, I intend on making on of these, my question is ; What else from around the house can I use to heat the perspex

[mid life crisis]

Nice work, I intend on making on of these, my question is ; What else from around the house can I use to heat the perspex

ya mums hair drier or ya dads :-)