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Heaps of historical info on this, a quick Google gave dates back to 2012, all talk about identification markings, dimples, shapes of mounting surfaces, washers, that are concave or something to match the fasteners mounting surface, which ARP states that if the washer, if it uses a washer in its application, isn't the right way around, it can cause premature failure, even if it was torqued up correctly with whatever lube is meant to be used There is even talk about getting the bolts Xrayed to check the structure, one was about some builder getting multiple sets of bolts, having them Xrayed, and picking from those results Nowadays identical "looking" fake parts, in identical looking fake packaging are everywhere, with all the markings and stuff, the only way you know they are not legit is Xray or when they fail I assume if you don't want fake parts, and don't have a Xray machine handy, is to get them directly from ARP in the USofA, aftermarket rod and head bolts aren't something to take for granted Imagine building a big dollar build only to find you lunch it because of an inferior fake fixture let go 😫 -
By MrCodZilla · Posted
Quick update team on the build Things done. Installed Diff Brace ( TMR Performance ) Removed Steering Rack and replaced bushings with GK Tech bushings Remove Manifold and replaced Rocker Cover Gaskets and the Spark Seal Tubes Installed 1000CC Bosch Fuel Injectors Installed R35 Spark Plugs ( Pre-gapped to 0.28" Installed Z1 Coilpacks Removed Fuel Sender unit and modified OEM pump to fit the 350lph Fuel Pump Installed Fuel Sender unit back with a Fuel Return system ( TMR Performance Fuel Return V2 ) Setup Fuel Lines that were AN lines and used P-Clamps to secure them to body ( This is needed to make this road legal in NZ ) Setup Fuel regulator Setup Vacuum lines from Wastegate to boost controller ( 3 port mac valve ) Wired boost solenoid to the EVAP sensor ( Behind manifold of car ) - Polarity of cables doesn't matter Setup BOV and Fuel Regulator lines Installed both aftermarket Aero Fenders ( Sourced from Japan ) Received Impul 280km/h Speedo ( Sourced from Japan ) Installed Carbon shift console Drive down the road untuned without creating boost pressure to test for leaks ( Video attached ) Setup JRP Racing 14in1 Gauge with Boost pressure being monitored Buttoned car back up and Tow to tuning shop in the mighty DE ( Nissan Elgrand E51 ) - VQ35DE Tuning platform is EcuTek and am hoping to 550WHP ( Dyno day is 9th and 10th of October ) Had Shop weld in a new Exhaust piece to connect Downpipe > Motordyne Resonator and to add x2 02 Sensor bungs for an AFR Gauge that will hook into the JRP Multi-Gauge 20240927_181518.mp4 20240927_181618.mp4 20240928_192844.mp4 -
It's in the bloody domain name twice! Yes...the GTR boxen have, for some reason, been cheaper than the RWD boxen for a long time. 10 years ago the GTST box was available here for <AU$3k. 5 years ago the GTT box was available for ~AU$3300. Both retail through 3rd party. Now the GTT box is >4k locally and only available for less if you're willing to jump through some hoops. Apparently they can be ordered from Nissan dealers for $3-3.5k at trade pricing. A friend of mine has a new GTT box sitting on his showroom floor that I keep wanting to hit him up for but I'd somewhat rather he sold it to someone else at his asking price than to me for a mate's rates discount. -
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I like the 'Beatles album cover, but with bird' element of this photo as well, haha
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