Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

was wondering would anyone be able to please tell me how to remove my propeller shaft to be able to change the U joint , im going to tackle this next weekend due to 4 days i got

im scared of going under the car due to geting these pics i used 2 stock jacks and 1 bent in half , so i prey i can scab some decent stands etc

the uni joint im geting for $20 , trans fluid how much would i need to top up due to ive heard some will poor out, do i need to replace any gaskets ? and last but not least im living on a preyer my 2 hands and a vice and hammer and neddle noise plyers and shit loads of WD40 can remove the uni

lowerassembvlynf2.th.jpg

assemblyow1.th.jpg

didnt get to take photos of the bolts but i noticed the propeller shaft goes thru some where then on the other side theres anther prop shaft with bolts attatching to the one where my uni is any one please be able to give a few words ?

yeah you will loose some gearbox oil but not all when you remove the tailshaft. I'm sure 1l would be enough to refill it.

Not sure about your uni - on later cars r32+ it is welded on at both sides and needs to be cut off and welded back on?

boltsarethesetheonestorrv8.th.jpg

sorry for the blurry / undetailed pic

but this is on the other prop shaft which connects to the prop shaft i want to remove so would i have to remove tose screws then remove both not to sure

you will need a hammer, two flat blade screwdrivers, a socket the same size as then end of the uni joint.

you need to take the whole shaft out, both halves.

the two screwdrivers are used to remove the C clip that is on each leg of the u-joint. hold one on each side of the C clip and hit one of them with the hammer. its awkward, but it can be done.

now you sit the socket one the ground and the uni joint on top of it, taking care to align the socket with the cap of the u-joint

hit the yoke between the welded area and the cap. the caps should start to come loose.

getting them back together is a little more difficult. first you take off two opposite caps, put the new u-joint into the yoke then place the caps back on. tap them gently with the hammer. they will go back into place. fiddly job but this is how i do it, and have done many, many times. remember to put the c clips on. do NOT leave them out.

cheers

Jason

cheers for that everyone

i dont know why but im scared of removing the shafts dont know why , but is it as easy as just removing tose bolts and then slamming it into gear and turning the rear wheels so they move to get to the others?

cheers for that everyone

i dont know why but im scared of removing the shafts dont know why , but is it as easy as just removing tose bolts and then slamming it into gear and turning the rear wheels so they move to get to the others?

Putting it in gear will actually prevent the rear wheels and tailshaft turning. Use the handbrake to stop the tailshaft turning while undoing the flange bolts.

my hand brake doesn't work dam it

so putting it into gear will stop the tail shaft etc turning?

asking due to need can only reach 2 bolts in 1 position so my plan was to make it turn so i can get access to the other 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can't agree. If we hadn't all been brought up with the noise caused by the inefficiency of an ICE, no-one would actually ask for all that. An EV is like any other car, it just goes better. 
    • 2 more things I have to work out Easy one first...can anyone describe how to pull the fuel pump and sender from a 33? I can feel there is some sort of mount and clips but don't have a manual and don't know the trick......if not I'll spend some quality time in the boot witha lighter tomorrow. Second question is harder.  He had changed the upper plenum to a plazmaman but clearly got to a point with the vacuum hoses where he said "f**k it, I'm going inside for a beer" and never came back to that job because it was a mess. Am I right to think that I need: 1. Pre throttle (16mm nipple on inlet) to AAC's main 20mm fitting as the main pre throttle feed 2. ACC has a second 13m outlet joined to that 20mm fitting which I think is the pre throttle air supply for the cold start valve? 3. Cold start valve's outlet fitting then goes to Plenum (to bypass throttle?) There is some adapter on the back of the ACC with 2 fittings (13mm and 10mm), do I run the 10mm through a 1 way valve to the Brake Booster (4) and the 13mm back to a 13mm nipple on the Plenum as the Idle control (5)? 6. Run a 6mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart BOV to the Plenum? 7. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Fuel Pressure Reg to the Plenum? 8. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart Boost controller to the Plenum? (Wastegate already has a pre turbo pressure source running to the solenoid then the wastegate on the other side of the bay)  Any help appreciated, the GTR is quite different setup and while the Stagea also has FFP it is different again. (And no Dose, I'm not pissing it all off and putting a ethrottle on it....)
    • OK, onto some questions to try and speed up the process a little. Does anyone know what core this Garret is? I know it is a high flowed standard turbo but nothing else about it. Tag says OK 0169J - 446179-5032 Same question for the injectors, I don't know what they flow and ideally can work it out before it hits the dyno, they are a mustard yellow side feed
    • Quick side trip into the engine externals, alternator and PS were in place including tensioned belts, but the PS was dry (my guess is he had the steering rack reco-ed). Filled it up with Transmax Z but it will need more bleeding once the engine is running no doubt. BTW I've said before, I don't know what kind of soft animals you have in the city, but out here they breed the rats tough. I bet they were disappointed when they tasted synthetic ATF.... Coilpacks are Splitfires with a factory loom in reasonable condition. I didn't pull one put I bet the spark plugs are new as its a new engine
    • Onto intake pressure test. I have a Raceworks (damn brand thieves!) pressure test adapter that lets you apply pressure through a standard tyre valve and comes with a pressure gauge.....I just blocked off the other end immediately before the throttle body. Applied 30psi....and the turbo intake immediately popped off with a bang. Sorted that but it was still leaking, turns out there is a pinhole leak at the BOV adapter that I'll have to find a local place to TIG up. I'm sure it makes SFA difference with such a small leak but I want it to be right. Everything else up to the throttle body was good. Also cleaned and oiled the KNX cone filter, and this is the AFM if anyone can identify it (car runs a PowerFC)
×
×
  • Create New...