Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gtr Afm's

Line

By Line,
in Australian Capital Territory

 Share

Recommended Posts

Line Contributor

Line

Posted
Posted

Hi,

I've still got some on going issues with my car. Basically what it does; it will run fine. Then you'll hear it drop down in rpm, almost like it's going to cut out but it doesn't. It will then pick up the rpm and sit on about 1100 or so; when running normal it will idle at 900.

If you rev it up, you'll get to 2,500 rpm; but it won't go any further than this. Will just bounce up and down 100 rpm or so and does not sound good, It's difficult to explain. Anyway I think it's the AFM's. I just replaced the Fuel Pump..this has no effect.

It seems definately like a fuel related or air flow problem.

I wanted to see if anyone has some working AFM's for an R33 GTR that I could borrow, before I go ahead and buy some after market ones.

If I do use aftermarket AFM's I would assume it needs to be tuned? Is this correct?

I've tried looking for standard AFM's; but can't find anywhere to buy them. Heard they are rediculously priced from Nissan.

Or if anyone has any ideas on this problem, feel free to post :)

Thanks,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/208353-r33-gtr-afms/
Share on other sites
Scooby Veteran

Scooby

Posted
Posted

mate try SSS Automotive or Just Jap in Sydney as they will most likely have some. they also appear in the for sale thread. original will be stupid $. by aftermarket do you mean Z32? if so you are right it'll need a retune but also changes to airbox etc if you're running one or at least pod adapters as Z32 is a different diameter.

they can be repaired in some cases, at times they suffer from dry joints. crack the top off the AFM by carefully cutting around the square cap which is secured with sealant and have a really close look at the pins that attach to the plug. it's obvious when you take the top off. sometimes you can't see the break so resolder them anyway. search the forced induction thread it's all there. it's worth a try some people have had good success but take it to an electronic repair place if you're not confident. there's also a place called PLMS in Adelaide - do a google search - that has repaired them previously.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/208353-r33-gtr-afms/#findComment-3686622
Share on other sites
SLY SKY Contributor

SLY SKY

Posted
Posted
Hi,

I've still got some on going issues with my car. Basically what it does; it will run fine. Then you'll hear it drop down in rpm, almost like it's going to cut out but it doesn't. It will then pick up the rpm and sit on about 1100 or so; when running normal it will idle at 900.

If you rev it up, you'll get to 2,500 rpm; but it won't go any further than this. Will just bounce up and down 100 rpm or so and does not sound good, It's difficult to explain. Anyway I think it's the AFM's. I just replaced the Fuel Pump..this has no effect.

It seems definately like a fuel related or air flow problem.

I wanted to see if anyone has some working AFM's for an R33 GTR that I could borrow, before I go ahead and buy some after market ones.

If I do use aftermarket AFM's I would assume it needs to be tuned? Is this correct?

I've tried looking for standard AFM's; but can't find anywhere to buy them. Heard they are rediculously priced from Nissan.

Or if anyone has any ideas on this problem, feel free to post :P

Thanks,

I have some for sale in perfect working condition.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/pr...84#entry3602384

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/208353-r33-gtr-afms/#findComment-3686666
Share on other sites
Line Contributor

Line

Posted
  • Author
Posted

After all, it was the AFM's. Who would have thought the first set I swapped would have been dodgy lol.

After getting some more AFM's from Sly, the problem is fixed.

Thanks, Sly. Appreciate the help.

I've driven the car to the coast yesterday and it's running absolutely perfect!

It seems like it's never run so good!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/208353-r33-gtr-afms/#findComment-3693623
Share on other sites
SLY SKY Contributor

SLY SKY

Posted
Posted
After all, it was the AFM's. Who would have thought the first set I swapped would have been dodgy lol.

After getting some more AFM's from Sly, the problem is fixed.

Thanks, Sly. Appreciate the help.

I've driven the car to the coast yesterday and it's running absolutely perfect!

It seems like it's never run so good!

:yes:;);):):):thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/208353-r33-gtr-afms/#findComment-3694035
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • DraftySquash
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By DraftySquash · Posted

      It was roughly 3.5 hours.    car went in around 11:00 and I was done around 2:30 He did the initial runs, install the BC and then Nistune install and tune.  The best part was sitting in the lobby and hearing the skyline on full throttle at the dyno 😂😂
    • Milkmun
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By Milkmun · Posted

      Glad it all went smooth. How long did the tuning process take?
    • DraftySquash
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By DraftySquash · Posted

      Yeah that was kind of the same feedback my tuner gave me.  the boost tee is until I can sort out my plan for the electronic boost controller and what I’d get, where I’d mount the dash etc.  I’m happy with this until I can figure it out. Not a big fan of the A-pillar gauges. I’d like to get a clean install of the boost gauge - something digital like GFB.  Something like that might fit neatly where the ashtray is and look clean. I feel like replacing the OEM triple gauge is a bit extreme for a weekender like my skyline. And it’s not making crazy power to need all the additional sensors/gauges. 
    • B-Boi34
      UniClutch

      By B-Boi34 · Posted

      I'm about to swap my box to Tremec T56 Magnum F & initially thinking of re-using my DCS twin plate (can get it re centred for the bigger spline) but it's been called out the box will be noisy (rattle) as the clutch is unsprung.  So I'm doing as much research as possible. I'm not so worried about holding the power as I'll go the track version which on paper will hold the maybe 1000hp I make. It's the longevity I worry about. DCS told me they don't use a sprung centre as it's just something that can break. The uni clutch has a very complicated sprung centre. Any one had or heard about any issues with it failing? Thanks in advance.
    • Kinkstaah
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Auto is at least 10% (from my real, actual experience with different torque converters and manual on the same setup) ~185rwkw at 11.6psi (peak!) is entirely what one would expect without a FMIC or anything else on the intake, it does bleed off towards the higher RPM so it's what, 9psi there? Note: There is nothing that can be done about this with a manual boost tee. If you want to hold it steady and gain more top end, well - You will need electronic boost control.....
×
×
  • Create New...