Rb30/26 Cams And Turbo

[meatwagon]

i am in the process of building a rb30/26, bottom end is all done with spool rods, arias pistons, ati balancer, direct twin plate, machining by jack bros including balance, bored, modified and nitrided crank, main studs, head studs to suit

just getting into the head work now, after some cams etc to suit, have done a bit of research. was thinking 270ish 10.25mm cams maybe a lil bigger on the exhaust side for better flow, i am looking for around 800hp at tyres out of the motor.

has anyone got this in a rwd configuration, if so what cams etc have people tried?

also i bought the ati balancer to set up dry sump, would this seriously be needed or should i run a N1 pump?

car will be mainly street, some drag, some track but all only social

any info greatly appreciated

bails

[GTR1993]

all depends on how hard the car launches and how good your sump is, that will answer if a dry sump is needed. If i was going for that much power and staying wet sump i would be going the tomei oil pump, and also ditching the spool rods, but thats personal preference, i have seen they dont like over 1000 hp.

[FineLine]

Jack brothers are big on cylinder head mods and are equipped with some of the best kit in the country. Surely they can tell you what is required via the flowbench etc what is required to achieve your goal.

Failing that speak to John Hill at JHH engineering. John has built some high horsepower RB's and is a guru head on mods required to make certain power levels. Damn nice old guy too.

[shanef]

800 at the treads is gt45r territory (aka T51R spl) with race fuel of course

you'll need to be looking at oversive valves aswell, i'm going to some 1mm inlet and 2mm exhaust, with tomei 280 11.5 cams - my goal is 750 at the treads (gt42r)

going the dry sump route is a very costly exercise, but oil control is the lifehood of an engine, its upto you and ur engine builder to decide on what to run

[meatwagon]

Yeah i spoke to JHH about the head but so many options and so undecieded.

I heard spool isnt a good rod for huge horsepower, what have you guys used and had success with?

Yeah well there was thoughts of a gt5533r but thought it would make it way too unstreetable

Yeah thinking of ordering Naprec oversized valves and guides

shanef, what oil pump are you running in ur setup?

[[200]]

You going to nitrite a nitrided crank?

[shanef]

Yeah i spoke to JHH about the head but so many options and so undecieded.

I heard spool isnt a good rod for huge horsepower, what have you guys used and had success with?

Yeah well there was thoughts of a gt5533r but thought it would make it way too unstreetable

Yeah thinking of ordering Naprec oversized valves and guides

shanef, what oil pump are you running in ur setup?

alot of the guys chasing big hp are using argo rods

if u get john to do ur head, leave the valves, guides and springs upto him to get

i've got a weaver 3 stage pump thats been rebuilt by jhh, but im thinking of moving to a 4 stage (2 sump scavenges instead of 1)

[meatwagon]

yeah 200 as when you modify and machine the stock crank you ruin the original nitriting

yeah JHH gave me a price with kelford cams valves etc etc etc

you running argo shanef?

[shanef]

yeh mate, 21mm pin Argo's and a set of CP 9:1 Pistons

[meatwagon]

ahhh yeah I beams?

[[200]]

Argo's are I beams.

[Sydneykid]

Argo's are I beams.

They also make H beams.

']when you modify and machine the stock crank you ruin the original nitriting

Why are you machining the crank?

If the bearing surfaces need more than a light linish, get another crank.

Drilling and tapering the oil holes doesn't affect the nitriding

Drilling and tapping for the grub screws doesn't affect the nitriding

Knife edging the counterweights doesn't affect the nitriding.

So what part of the original nitriding are you ruining?

If you don't go dry sump (which I wouldn't on a road car) then you will need a sump upgrade. The high energy 6 litre or 8 litre are the go for RWD applications. The Jun or Tomei replacement oil pumps are the go, if you don't go dry sump.

Obviously you realise that 800 rwhp in a RWD road car wil be completely undriveable on the road. And next to useless for any kind of circuit work, due to the lousy throttle response and overall shape of the power curve.

What gearbox are you going to run? Tailshaft? Drive shafts? Diff? They will all need upgrading for that sort of power target.

Cheers

Gary

[2BNVS]

what the hell is the point of 800rwhp on a mainly street car...i dont get it

[meatwagon]

Hi sydney kid, to be honest i wasnt going to get it done again but i went oversized bearings so i knew the crank surfaces were good and Jack Bros advised me for what i want it should be done??????? You seem like you have had a fair bit of experience, would this be the case or was it just a ploy?

So I beams are the go then yeh?

Talk to me more about the oil setup sydney kid, i never wanted to go dry sump cause as you say its fairly extreme for the street use, just the dollars worth of motor i dont want a loss of oil pressure. Originally i was going to use the N1 oil pump and custom larger sump etc, heard alot of bad things about the N1 tho thats what turned me away. As i said if and when it does go for track it will only be social and for fun, i know it will lag and throttle response will be crap but it will only hit the track for a bit of fun nothing more.

Yes i will drag it a couple of times but again nothing serious.

I have an r33 gearbox with better gearsets etc, but know it wont last a lifetime so willing to go auto later on down the track, custome made tailshaft from brisbane gearbox and clutch services. Diff and tailshafts have been done as well

Yes you may not get the point of that for a street car, i have had 200hp, 360hp, 570hp street cars, as everyone knows when you start getting up there, u just want a little more, its just my choice that i want to street it

Awaiting your reply sydneykid, much appreciated so far

[rev210]

Build the setup with less power via turbos and grab a big nitrous kit.

* You can build a responsive setup that will go well on a track on the odd occasion (without gas)

* It will be great to drive on the road and very responsive.

* With enough nitrous and a very well built motor you can have your 800rwhp, just go for a large nitrous setup. easy.

* You only need the gas on those occasions you visit the drag strip so its far more ecconomical to setup, leaving lots of money for building your motor and drive train.

[2BNVS]

fair enough its ur choice of course but i know what my 600rwhp is like on the street, and the masssssive lag that 800rwhp will have will be crazy, and its not like u can get much use out of the 800rwhp on the street with traffic/speedlimits/cops etc... id rather build something lightning responsive for the street and usable but thats just me

would luv to hear it cruisin down the street though

ben...

[meatwagon]

Yeah i already do have a nitrous express kit for it.

very interested to hear about these oil pumps, the tomei and jun items, how maany guys have used them??

I am willing to drop hp slightly for a bit better drive

[full house]

my friend have tried it! I'll ask him about it . . .

[2BNVS]

both the tomei and juns are great, i personally use JUN on mine

ben...

[rev210]

Yeah i already do have a nitrous express kit for it.

very interested to hear about these oil pumps, the tomei and jun items, how maany guys have used them??

I am willing to drop hp slightly for a bit better drive

You need a bigger direct port kit then and along with the rebuild and extras you can have the 800rwhp. And when it's not on you can have the turbo setup for super response.