Jump to content
SAU Community

Re Torquing Cylinder Head... Help

Antimatter

By Antimatter,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Antimatter Experienced

Antimatter

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ok - heres the thing. I have just (in my brilliance...) backed off all the cylinder head bolts on a S/H rb26 with the ambition to re torque them... which is fine - have re torqued them all to nissan specs and gained a little rotation on the head bolt which I am satisfied with.

HOWEVER - I did back them all off at once - and there was some residual oil from the head that has tracked out while the head was backed off. Should I have done them one by one? (if I had thought about it a little more before I threw myself at the job this is what I would have done I think). Should I now take the head off and replace the gasket / clean the surfaces as a precaution? The inlet manifold etc is on - I would need to take this off again, But I am yet to put the turbos / exhaust side on.

I am pretty embarresed to be asking about this guys - feel like a major screw up at the moment (what was I THINKING!).... please go easy on me....

Edited by Antimatter
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/208542-re-torquing-cylinder-head-help/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No need to drill any holes. There's plenty of access to reach through and behind all of that steel to "push" from behind with a pulling action on the slide hammer. There's all sorts of attachments you can screw on the end of them.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea the photos aren't the best. When I was pulling the bumper and headlights out there was a bodyshop guy looking on for it, there is a slight bend behind where the passenger headlight is, but we're talking a few MM and there is a little bit of a bend for the reo. That said it's supposedly well within the "Drill a hole in it and pull it out with a slide hammer to be close enough" and be on our way. The other option is to buy a GTR reo for the GTR bumper bits but this is a $2000+ fix for something Mr Hammer can probably do 99% of the job for and everything will/can line up pretty closely-to-good-enough.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's a write off for sure... Part out? 😛 I kid. It looks like the rad support has a minor minor bend in it too where the rep support sits near. Could just be the photos (and me not wearing my glasses right now). Worst case is you can buy a new radiator support, have it swapped over, and leave the car in paint jail for 12 to 18 months while you build the motor to handle twin turbos or a Harrop SC...
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      It seems the definition of "Gregging" something might need to be expanded?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTR - Where to begin

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This is why I suggested that there is really nothing that can safely be done in the engine bay at this budget level. Just the work to reassure yourself that the engine won't instantly crap itself the moment the boost gets turned up will wear out the piggy bank long before the first turbo gets installed. Spend $10k and still not have any extra performance? My tip is a version of our standard advice from 15 years ago about buying a GTR, which is not to buy one unless you can afford to buy two. The new version is not to modify a GTR unless you have all the funds required to do it all at once, properly, and enough to rebuild it after it blows up.
×
×
  • Create New...