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Does The Engine/powerfc Need The Aac Valve And The Air Regulator?

CameronBNR32
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CameronBNR32 Proficient

CameronBNR32

Posted
Posted

I pulled off the plenum today to clean up the piping and wiring abit, and was thinking of removing the aac valve... as I'm not running anything air-con anymore, and the lowest I can get the motor to idle is at around 1100-1200rpm anyway due to the cams.

Question is, can I remove it? will my idle go to hell and stall / high rev with out it? I have to get a retune for the new fuel system going in so I'm thinking of getting rid of it all now so the tune can be done to take these into account. (if possible)

Also the 'Air Regulator' can I remove this aswell? is it there to help the engine warm up? let more air into the engine while warming up? thinking of removing this aswell if I can...

If I can get rid of the AAC Valve and the Air Regulator, I'm thinking of joining hose 1. and 2.

If I can get rid of the AAC Valve and not the Air Regulator, I was going to join 1. 2. and 3. together.

good idea? bad idea?

If its not a good idea I'll just leave it all alone :)

aacv.jpg

Scooby Veteran

Scooby

Posted
Posted

you're correct, air reg is warm up and AAC is ancillaries. the AAC affects power steering but mainly at parking speeds. they make the car nicer to drive in an everyday sense, but if that doesn't interest you i think you can block them off all together.

  • 3 months later...
nizmonut Community Regular

nizmonut

Posted
Posted

the (AAC) auxilary air control valve controls engine idle for the engine when it is under load....for example, when you turn the lights on, or the window wipers, or turn the steering wheel, it compensates the engine load by increasing the air flow into the plenum chamber.

the (ICV) or idle control valve is the valve used when the car is warming up, it opens a valve letting the engine idle at anywhere up to 1500 to 2000 rpm once the ecu coolant temp circut is up to temperature it sends a signal back to the ecu telling it to reduce the amount of fuel, correct timing , and shut the valve off back to the base setting idle the the adjustment screw is set to...idealy should be 950+/- 50 rpm.

you will still need the "air regulator" or ICV but can do away with the AAC valve ....

you can do away with both of them if you have a restrictor into the bypass pipe , i did it , it took a little bit of experimenting to get the right size restrictor but got it idling at the lowest i could with the hks cams with out stalling,

only problem is every one asks me whats wrong with my car when the hear the lumpy idle.

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