door panels

[hippy]

ok i'm at a stage where i'm going to sound deaden my doors soon ... i need to know how hard it is to get the door under panel off ... the trim is easy to take off and i will deaden that ... i need to know how hard it is to take of the under panel between the trim and the outer panel cause i want to deaden the outpanel too and rewire the speaker wire which i haven't done ...

also for all u guys who have sound deadened ur doors etc ... what stuff did u use??

[«Cyph3r»]

brown bread sounddeadining is pretty good and not too expensive...

just look for some reviews. as to the panel removal i wouldn't have a clue

[«Cyph3r»]

brown bread is also easy to use

[hippy]

thanks for that ..

any other comments ??

[BOoStEr]

SerenityMax from the online store on CAA. I've seen you around there a bit so I'm sure you can find it. It's supposed to be the equal of Dynamat extreme and it's better and cheaper than Brownbread. It costs $45 for two or $90 for five 500x430 sheets

and they deliver free anywhere in Australia now. I just ordered ten sheets for my doors and parcel shelf and I'll post my opinion of it here when it arrives.

[bless_you]

hippy,

you cant detach the door between the outer door and the door panel. its all one piece. you will just have to get your windows up and reach in there (que the bloody knuckles... trust me, they will bleed).

i used some stuff called supra bitchmen sound sheets, very good stuff!! its like putting a layer of tarmac in your doors, no rattles anymore and when you shut the doors you get a BMW style 'THUD'. just remember to wrap all your linkages and cables in the door with some sort of padding so they dont rattle too.

[hippy]

then how do you rewire the sound cabling?? u have to get behind there to do it??

[bless_you]

im hoping that we are talking about the same thing, i will take a pic soon for you, but i will just have to reach in behind and wire it all up that way. just pre-wire it all and solder wires to the speaker, before you mount it... hope that helps

[Guest RedLineGTR]

dam rattling gotta do it aswell...sometime..

[Brody]

Originally posted by BOoStEr

SerenityMax from the online store on CAA. I've seen you around there a bit so I'm sure you can find it. It's supposed to be the equal of Dynamat extreme and it's better and cheaper than Brownbread. It costs $45 for two or $90 for five 500x430 sheets

and they deliver free anywhere in Australia now. I just ordered ten sheets for my doors and parcel shelf and I'll post my opinion of it here when it arrives.

Post link to website please

[hippy]

www.caraudioaustralia.com

[hippy]

its not a bad site .. but nowhere near as busy as here .. guess car audio gets boring after a while ... LOL

[Brody]

Originally posted by BOoStEr

SerenityMax from the online store on CAA. I've seen you around there a bit so I'm sure you can find it. It's supposed to be the equal of Dynamat extreme and it's better and cheaper than Brownbread. It costs $45 for two or $90 for five 500x430 sheets

and they deliver free anywhere in Australia now. I just ordered ten sheets for my doors and parcel shelf and I'll post my opinion of it here when it arrives.

Ive got a few weeks of my license suspension to go so im looking to do the same...Have you found any reviews/etc that compares the 'serenity max' againest other products?

[hippy]

from what i know .. most stuff is much of the same .. i've read lots of good stuff about serenity max ... lots of good stuff about all the other stuff like dynomat or whatever ... for me i'd be happy with the cheaper stuff as i think i can get it really cheap so i'd just use more of it ... brody please let me know how u go .. maybe take some pics of how u did it ... like how u got the stuff in the inside and things like that ... i'll probably do it in a months time ... which is enough to do more research ...

[BOoStEr]

Brody

try this http://www.webaudiodirect.com/

If you really want cheap go the Supra deadsheet. The self- adhesive bitumen sheets are 530x190mm and the loading is about 3.5Kg/square Metre and only costs $2.75 per sheet. Serenitymax has a loading of 4Kg/square Metre and has a layer of aluminium foil on the outside but costs $18 a sheet. Serenitymax is the better product but if I was working to a budget it would be hard to beat the Supra deadsheet for value. The only problem I've had with it is that if you use it to cover holes it breaks up because it doesn't have the aluminium layer but that doesn't matter if you cover the holes with thin MDF first.

Bostik deadsheet is a similar product but the loading is only about 2.8 Kg/square Metre.

[Brody]

l'll scout round for some reviews (yes i looked on the car audio au forums and theres lot of info), and get some gear on the weekend, or the following week if i have to order it off the net...

Im not really interested in cutting up mdf (dont have tools), so ill see what my options are around it

[funkymonkey]

Icynene insulation and wall insulation batts for sound deadening under the carpet and in the doors also under the subs/enclosure in the boot... does the trick like a charm for uber cheap, a mate of mine that does SPL comps (with reinforced doors and funky plexiglass) uses this combo and he's got 156dB with next to no panel rattle etc.

Icynene insulation is a rising foam which is used as a sound deadener in buildings etc. Its got a sound transmission class of 37 and noise reduction coefficient of 70. It also stops airflow, is water resistant and works best on midrange (ie vocals/music). The batts block out the bass.

Works out to be sumfin like $50 a sq meter of sound deadening with that combo, so if you're on a budget you can still pull it off.

[hippy]

where do u get the batts from?? do u just stick it beneath the inner and the outer door panel?? i guess u can't do that cause of the electric windows ...

[BOoStEr]

I don't think it's a good idea to use anything that can absorb water inside your doors. After rain you need to let your doors drain and dry out as quickly as possible. The longer water stays in the door the more chance of trims buckling, speakers being water damaged and rust starting.

[Brody]

Though i'd post an update

Ive been able to get the brown bread sound deadening material cheaply thru a mate that runs a audio shop (lifestyle parra).

So far ive done 1 door (3/4 gotta do another clean layer) and much of the boot lid. With 2 subs up loud, the boot sounds 100x better, none of this tinny rattling shit, though theres abit to go which should finish off the rest. In the boot, u can see holes, ive patched these holes with BB, another layer on top, then another, and im about to do 1 clean layer (clean as in shinny alu without tar all ova it).

In terms of the door, didnt make *that* much of a diff, i think our doors are pretty solid as it is. Im going to add another layer and see if it helps. If uve got nothing better to do, its worthwhile

This is a 'another sketchy post' so if u have questions ask away