Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Overall engine height may be a problem, as BMW run their engines canted (leaning over to one side) to enable lower bonnet lines.

I know that many blokes in the US shoehorn 6 cylinder BMW engines into the smaller chassis for a pretty potent result. Try searching here: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/index.php

Having said all that, run a tape measure over things. An RB might just fit with no real dramas - as far as engine conversions go. :laugh:

id think that most things external to the engine will need to be modded, you might need to make a plenum that sits closer to the engine and make a custom exaust manifold for the car.

who knows ive never done it before :laugh:

i've got a rb20 in my e36 at the moment, just bought an rb25 to build up and put in it, rb30 would have been nice too but a little outa my price range.

some things to consider when putting rb motor in e36:

- convert sump to rear sump, i went with a new custom sump to clear the bmw crossmember

- custom single piece tailshaft (hardy spicer for around 220)

- definately upgrade diff for rb30 (M3, i've heard someone running 528i diff in theirs)

- remove ABS unit because i found the dump pipe sat right on it, i reran all the brake lines to tidy it up

- for using the tacho from the 4 cyl, no problem, just get one of those 'jaycar speedo signal converter' kits.. works great on my setup.

- oh, and buy one of those haynes manuals! best asset i own

I loved the idea of using rice in the beema.. its still going strong, the most reliable car i've ever owned..

Here is the official build thread that my mate maintains (he did the fab work).

http://forums.performanceforums.com/forums...614244#poststop

I've since wire-tucked everything and repainted the engine bay.. looks heaps better than before.

chris.

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Getting a decent signal from all 6 throats is a challenge. I don't know for sure, but I suspect that the stock balance tube is not ideal for it. I have done it on an ALFA 4 cylinder (about 35 years ago, so don't ask for too many details). We drilled 4x holes in the manifold runners, put in some fittings and ran hoses to a decent sized (I think it was about 20mm diameter) pipe that ran the length of the inlet manifold. So, it was quite a decent volume. There is a "tuning" balance to be found between the volume of the common plenum on such a thing and the diameter of the pipes running from it to the runners. You need the volume to be large enough to damp out the sharp spikes in pressure signal you get as each runner gets sucked on by its cylinder, but not so large that it becomes too slow to respond to actual changes in MAP. And you need the hoses to be small enough to transmit the signal quickly, but not so small that they delay the signal. You might have to have more than one go at it, if there isn't any actual success based wisdom to be had here. Hopefully there is. Anyway, I would not do it on only a couple of cylinders. I would also not care about "permanently modifying a part". Just bloody drill holes and make stuff better. There is nothing sacred about any GTR unless it is a genuine museum piece that you shouldn't be modifying at all anyway.
    • He's still joining you, he's just delayed it and won't have the fulleh sick ITBs...
    • The strange thing is this is a URAS front bumper (or clone of it). The bumper actually does not sit flush with the GTT hood - You need the addon to make the hood 'long' enough to reach the bumper. I have no idea why they didn't incorporate this piece into the bumper itself.. instead of sticking it to the hood instead.
    • Another thought on this OLD topic: When you paint your bonnet lip, leave a small unpainted back lip/line along the back of the lip, where it rests on the bumper. That way, the line in the back is much more prominent than the gaps in the front/under the lip - and it breaks the hood-to-bumper connection at the "correct" place, when comparing to a GTR. I'm gonna do this with mine this week, so stay tuned for pics!
    • So I'm in the final stages of assembling my single turbo RB30/26 and had a question regarding MAP reference points.  I've seen several recommendations such as tapping the cylinder 2/3 ITB, tapping the intake manifold at cylinder 2/3, or using a point on IAC. First two are doable but require permanently modify part and the third is "out" as I plan to delete the IAC.  All that to say my question is can I used the "bleeder" in the center of the ballance tube as a MAP Reference? I'm running a catch can so I don't need it for the PCV system. My thought process is it "pulls" from all 6 cylinder, and it's between the ITB and the cylinders making it ideal for MAP reference according to what I can find. Thoughts?
×
×
  • Create New...