Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

now i'm not sure whether i'm looking for advice on a "how to" basis, or just someone to tell me that this is a dumb idea and to walk away, but here's the thing

i own ONE car. 1996 r33 gts. rb25de etc. you all know the drill

when i first bought it i had a bit of extra cash lying around and managed to score a big ass intercooler and 2 garrett turbos for a matter of a couple hundred bucks.

basically, all this is leading to one question

what kind of work/how much money will it take to make a functional and RELIABLE rb25dett??

i've been told everything from "bolt it all on and away you go" to "you're going to have to replace every mechanical part of your car"

is there a simple way of doing this or have i dug myself a hole that i should just fill in and enjoy my naturally aspirated goodness?

if anybody could shed some light on this for me i'd greatly appreciate it because i have this horrible feeling that i'm in waaaaay too deep

it's not just a matter of going out and buying a gtr or gts-t any more. it's come down to wondering if it can be done without spending more money than just buying a new car. don't get me wrong, i'm not just trying for the ebay special, if something needs genuine good quality parts or professional work done i'll go there, but it's also my daily driver. i don't want it to be off the road for more than a weekend at a time.

the things i figure i'll need to do so far are as follows:

aquire remaining parts required ie. intake/exhaust manifolds, dump pipes, cooler piping, oil lines, etc.

upgrade fuel pump

upgrade injectors

possibly upgrade diff, gearbox, clutch

possible engine rebuild and have head worked/decompressed/whatever

have i missed anyhing? anything there not required?

can somebody giz a hand here?

Edited by Fungus Mungus
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/208812-potentially-terrible-idea/
Share on other sites

from the little bits of info I'm come to know, here are somethings you might want to consider.

Factory injectors and fuel pumps run out of juice around 210-230rwkw so you can have 4 truck sized turbos hanging off the side and you still won't make anymore than 230rwkw.

I'm thinking the exhaust manifold will have to be replaced with custom ones to fit the two two turbos.

New twin dump pipes will have to be either purchased or replaced.

Twin air flow meter

Aftermarket engine management

Inside the engine, I've heard you will have to change the pistons, something to do with the change in compression. Will also have to change the gasket as wel.

Pretty sure I'm missing a few things

Injectors - $900

Fuel pump- $200

twin afm - $500

exhaust manifold - beats me, anywhere between $400-$1000 I guess

Power FC- $1500

New pistons, conrod etc etc - dunno a few grand or

gasket - don't have a clue

a tune - $500

Dump pipes - $x00

well, thats as much as I know.

did you guys also notice that its a de... compression, smaller injectors and ECU then RB25dets. Sell the motor and buy a RB25det with ECU. There is a thread in the N/A section about putting turbos on de's, its really not worth it!! when you can get a det motor and put that in. Besides then your engine plate wont line up with whats really in the car, sell it and buy a GTST or GTR!!

Edited by race_snooze

Sell the car and buy a turbo model, you will have a much better base to begin with.

de box = rubbish.

de diff = rubbish.

de brakes = rubbish.

by the time you've brought those up to scratch with a stock gtst you've spent 3k plus labour without even looking at the engine.

Just grab all the pieces from a gtst and install them onto your car - go single turbo. Install a spacer/swap pistons, larger injectors, ecu. Valve springs might be a little soft for big boost.

Way too many isues going TT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...