Standard R32 Gtr Oil Pump Or N1 Gtr Oil Pump?

[GKTECH]

Okay.....

I'm building an RB26 powered S13 silvia at the moment.

The car is being built for no real purpose other than being a quick street car.

The motor is getting a forged bottom end and I'll be running group A turbos at around 1.1 - 1.4 bar. I'm also using a high energy oil sump (the car is only RWD)

I won't be sitting on the rev limiter for extended periods of time.

I ordered an N1 Oil pump from Nissan but it was taking a while to arrive so I then ordered an original oil pump from Nissan to try and get the car running.

Both the pumps turned up on the same day.

My question is (and I have searched and read up many threads), which one should I use?

I understand that the N1 will give higher oil pressure but may cause seals to blow out?

I also understand that both pumps are far from the best but I really don't want to spend too much more money on the car (eg. 1k on an aftermarket oil pump) [unless I can sell both the standard pumps for good money)

Anywayz, what are people's thoughts?

Greg

[Beer Baron]

use the N1. it's only failing is the odd catastrophic pump gear failure. i assumed you are using a 33 GTR crank, or at least a 32 GTR crank with a collar fitted? if so then don't worry about it too much. but if you really want to make it good buy the reinik pump gears it's much, much stronger than the N1 gears. cost about $600.

[GKTECH]

I've just ordered a JUN collar for the R32 GTR crank.

I've never heard of the Reinik pump gears. Where can they be found and do you have any other info on them?

cheers,

Greg

[Beer Baron]

reinik. engineering arm of nismo. used to build group A and super GT motors. though thinking about it, if you spent say $300 on the N1 pump from nissan, and $600 on the gears, then you are at Jun Pump money.

[GKTECH]

reinik. engineering arm of nismo. used to build group A and super GT motors. though thinking about it, if you spent say $300 on the N1 pump from nissan, and $600 on the gears, then you are at Jun Pump money.

That's what I was just thinking.

The standard oil pump from Nissan was $462 trade!! I can't remember what I paid for the N1.

Would you recommend the JUN over the other options on the market?

Greg

[Beer Baron]

from what people who have used the different types tell me the tomei one is the favourite, but it's about $400 more than the Jun one. most people use the jun one cause it's cheap. well relatively.

[GKTECH]

Well if I have a look at the reinik gear option, it would mean that I wouldn't have to sell the N1 pump and for $600 I would have a good pump?

Do you know where I can buy the reinik gears from?

[N1GTR]

Use the N1 with a crank collar, thats it. Stop spending - you're doing this on a budget right?

Then sell the stock one (or return it to nissan if you can)

[GKTECH]

Use the N1 with a crank collar, thats it. Stop spending - you're doing this on a budget right?

Then sell the stock one (or return it to nissan if you can)

I am trying to do it on a budget so I might have to go with that option.

[Jmaac]

Go N1, your pcv valve should stop any seals blowing out, if not enlargen it

[Beer Baron]

Well if I have a look at the reinik gear option, it would mean that I wouldn't have to sell the N1 pump and for $600 I would have a good pump?

Do you know where I can buy the reinik gears from?

they changed their name to reimax now. not sure of anyone in aus retailing their gear but if you can use google you can find them!

[GeeTR]

Use the N1 with a crank collar, thats it. Stop spending - you're doing this on a budget right?

With all due respect, fark that line of thinking.

I personally, know ppl that have smashed N1's ring sets. Imagine all the ppl that keep quiet. I think cases have gone past the "odd case"

Busting a built motor due to a failure of a aftermarket part is a joke.

You did say you wouldn't be red lining it, but in reality, when your motor is built, in the car, and you've got your foot flat in S13 chassis, RWD... its going to smack the limiter... god hopes you don't have a ign cut with a DJetro...

Tomei type prices... almost warrants a proper 4stg (min) dry sump.

The choice isnt clear cut IMO - Just my ramblings...

Edited March 4, 2008 by GeeTR

[N1GTR]

With all due respect, fark that line of thinking.

I personally, know ppl that have smashed N1's ring sets. Imagine all the ppl that keep quiet. I think cases have gone past the "odd case"

Busting a built motor due to a failure of a aftermarket part is a joke.

You did say you wouldn't be red lining it, but in reality, when your motor is built, in the car, and you've got your foot flat in S13 chassis, RWD... its going to smack the limiter... god hopes you don't have a ign cut with a DJetro...

Tomei type prices... almost warrants a proper 4stg (min) dry sump.

The choice isnt clear cut IMO - Just my ramblings...

I agree with you 100%, ive got a JUN pump with a crank collar machined to suit.

But he asked for a budget fix, and unfortunatly the N1 is half the price of the Jun

[GeeTR]

^^^ yah, i seemed to have missed that, in my "brittle ring set" rage

Theres a few items in a decent rebuild, you can skimp on, and still make good power.. for a long time... but oil pumps and RB's ain't one of em

[GKTECH]

I'm not specifically on a budget but I don't really want to go too too crazy.

Where are the cheapest prices for a JUN pump?

Greg

P.S I also know of someone that has smashed an N1 oil pump also.

[R31Nismoid]

Anything bigger than a N1 pump is way overkill for the street.

I ran the N1 oil pump for 7,000 hard km's, drags, limiter constantly with my 370rwkw RB25/RWD setup, nothing wrong when it was stripped down for a check as part of sale.

As long as its not sitting on the rev limiter all day, you wont smash the N1 pump, and will be fine for street duties.

Abuse kills the N1 pumps, they don't fail of their own accord far as im concerned (if your running a collar/33 crank).

The people that have killed them have given the cars a major hiding.

[Shockster0429]

Anything bigger than a N1 pump is way overkill for the street.

I ran the N1 oil pump for 7,000 hard km's, drags, limiter constantly with my 370rwkw RB25/RWD setup, nothing wrong when it was stripped down for a check as part of sale.

As long as its not sitting on the rev limiter all day, you wont smash the N1 pump, and will be fine for street duties.

Abuse kills the N1 pumps, they don't fail of their own accord far as im concerned (if your running a collar/33 crank).

The people that have killed them have given the cars a major hiding.

Thats a good bit of reassuring information for my build, I'm running a very similar setup for my car IS a street car, that will be dragged and tracked occasionally.

Do you feel its safe to occasionally launch off a 2 step running 370ish kw's with an n1 pump at the track, maybe a dozen times a month or so?

[Bliksem]

they changed their name to reimax now. not sure of anyone in aus retailing their gear but if you can use google you can find them!

Greenline.jp have them

[GKTECH]

After seeing the simplicity of the Reimax oil pump rotor kits, I certainly wouldn't mind getting one in to take to the engineers next door.

There seem to be 2 options, 77mm and 81mm.

Does anyone know the difference between the 2 of them in terms of their application?

[Bliksem]

The larger one should flow more

I'd be interested to see how you go if you end up buying the gears and having them reproduced on a CNC machine (assuming thats what you have in mind)