Best Way To Mod A Gtr

[N1GTR]

PS. start saving for a rebuild too

Thats funny, cause its true

[R31Nismoid]

Hey I just got a 98 gtr vspec with -5s n cat back, once I finish the exshust n do a full remap I hope I get some better power, but my main goal is 350awkw so the hunt for parts begins lol do you think I could break a 11 sec pass??

You should be able to do high 11's on the factory turbos (260-270rwkw). R32 GTR's have run mid 11 with the factory items, R34's are a bit heavier so a high 11/low 12

350rwkw you are looking deep 11/high 10's but it all comes down to driving, launch, tyres etc

[STATUS]

GT2860-7 or 9's

Nistune or powerfc

panel filter

front pipe

decent cat

injectors if your aiming much over 300kw to BE SAFE, std r32 injectors are getting a big long in the tooth and can leak.

300-330rwkw easy, it kinda the stable mod diet for a R32 or R33 GTR nowadys.

[Dagz]

My 98 gtr isn't a 34 it's a 33 n my turbos r much better than stock -5s

[R32 Driver]

who said -5s are stock turbos?

and how do you define "better"? more power? more responsive?

[some_cs_student]

who said -5s are stock turbos?

and how do you define "better"? more power? more responsive?

I think your misinterpreting Dagz's poorly constructed previous post, it actually says I have Garrett -5's which are better than stock turbo's.

I would assume better = more power in this case (and non-ceramic exhaust wheels )

Personally I want 2860-9's at some point in this year but I'm not so interested in drag times, more in street/track response where I drive on the street more often than the track

[bonestorm007]

Hi mate. I would decide if it is going to be a predominantly street car, or track and street car.

I have a 33 GTR. Initially stock. Put exhaust, filters, removed boost restrictor - was good for 240RWKW. It was awesome for the street, and in my opinion perfect for a daily driver. Lightning response, pleasure to drive every day. On the track though, boost came on super early, but like a light switch, meaning it would get messy if you nailed it coming out of a corner (Im sure this could have been corrected with a power FC and good tune).

Then added 2860-9 turbos, power FC, oil cooler, and cam gears for an easy 280RWKW on a Racepace safe tune. In comparison, it actually feels a little slower on the street. And I emphasise feels. Only because it requires more road to wind up the turbos which are slightly less responsive. On the track it is way way better, boost comes on early but progressively for great control out of corners, with a fat and elastic mid range. Wouldn't push a 32 too much more that this sort of tune unless you budget for a rebuilt in the future.

Cheers,

Luke.

[gtr fan]

I have a 32 and I bought a pair of -5's but before I install I am going to swap them for a pair of -9's. I think standard engines just can't see the big power that -5 are capable of. As such go for the slightly more responsive turbo, which will give power without stretching a standard motor.

Along with this I have the following

- CES Race pipes (already have 3.5" cat back)

- Larger 4" cat

- Cam Gears

- Power FC and 550cc injectors, Blitz EBC (installed in car for some time now)

- Will get nismo or tomei fuel pump

- A bit of ceramic coating turbine housings and manifolds

Will hopefully see at least 300rwkw at around 1.3bar.

Edited April 30, 2010 by gtr fan

[J_R32]

PS. start saving for a rebuild too

is asking 400rwhp for a street driven(occasional skid pan etc) R34 RB26DETT asking too much from it internally. I am aware the R34 RB26 is the "strongest" of the bunch, but what are its limits?

Is it safe to run a 34R with a exhaust(front pipe, cat, catback) change, pod filters, EBC @ 14 psi WITHOUT any changes to factory computer? for example one wouldnt dare do that to a WRX unless one had a rebuild/new engine on standby

[R31Nismoid]

Snowman ran 330rwkw for i think 2.5years (lots of circuit/street) and it failed. Only one example though.

You might as well get a PFC mate, for $900 - why not?

Factory R34 turbos will only give you around 250rwkw either way - although depends how much of a risk taker you are.

I wouldn't run factory turbos @ 14psi... I would be fearful of turbo death (which leads to motor usually)... so 12psi would be where i'd stop factory turbos.

Yes i realise the above is conservative, but it's better than a dead motor if you dont plan to ever rebuild

[MasterShake]

I thought the 32 had the strongest engine. block atleast.