Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey mate,

Optima ive been told are the best for that sort of thing, ive been looking around for a decent battery also and some people have said Optima...

Cheers mate. i'll have a look around and let ya know how i go

an auto-electrician told me that most dry-cell batteries have a high CCA rating, but thats usually for only the first 15seconds. After that the CCA drops to a lower number. I was advised that a heavy duty wetcell battery would be better and cheaper as it holds a higher average CCA.

Any truth to the above statement?

I work for a battery company and no battery would be put into a car for audio or starting application as a dry cell...all batteries need battery acid to operate thus making them wet but yes a high CCA rating or cranking amps rating is reccommend for starting cars not to run auxilary power units such as audio units...i would be looking into AGM (absorbed glass mat) or GEL batteries you can get deep cycle versions that will last the distance go and check out www.alcobatt.com.au depending on which state youre in im sure they will have a supplier near by.

an auto-electrician told me that most dry-cell batteries have a high CCA rating, but thats usually for only the first 15seconds. After that the CCA drops to a lower number. I was advised that a heavy duty wetcell battery would be better and cheaper as it holds a higher average CCA.

Any truth to the above statement?

Another vote for Optima yellow top here. Never had a problem with my audio system (though it's by no means 'killer'). Recently the turbo died and the car was was sitting in my backyard for about 2.5 months without being touched. The battery had run flat enough that it wouldn't crank over, but after 1.5 days charge it started no worries. Ppl tell me it should continue to work fine from now on, hope so - impressed so far.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sag as in the windows start to slowly open themselves, or they're just slow to go up/down with engine off?
    • It looks like it needs a big worm gear drive on it to control the rotating, not a few sloppy pins!
    • As Duncan said, first there was OBD, which few cars used, then came OBD2.   Now an interesting point, OBD2 isn't even for what you want to do. OBD2 is for emissions testing. There is some sensor data on OBD2, but it's up to the manufacturer what they're putting on it. Most scan tools operate on UDS, which like OBD2 is a standard built on-top of CAN. UDS specifies how to structure a message, what very limited things mean such as "read memory address" but it does not specify what is stored in which memory address, that is all up to the manufacturer. You either a scan tool compatible with that vehicle, or to know how to reverse engineer all the data, which can take a VERY long time and a lot of vehicles to get it right. Oh and then the manufacturer does a firmware update and changes what's where... Ask me how I know that as fact Oh, and by the time you've got the scan tool that supports all the manufacturers stuff, well, you're back at "But a consult cable and the Nissan software" The main difference being most manufacturers software these days works with the same hardware readers, as the readers are built to support J2534 which is another standard for how the PC communicates with the tool to make it do specific things on the car...
    • Rotisserie is fully assembled apart from centre connector which obviously isn't required until the car is on it. It packs away fairly neatly and doesn't take up too much room. (Now that I actually have some room after my clean up!) Overall very happy with the quality of it.  Assembly was a piece of piss.  The only thing I didn't like was that the pins that lock the rotation lock wheels in place were a bit of a dick in a bucket scenario. It allowed the arms to rotate a significant amount even when locked in place.  To fix that i measured up the hole and went and grabbed a couple of 18mm fully threaded bolts and a thread tap to suit. I ran the tap through top and bottom so it was threaded both ends.  Then just threaded the bolt through both sides.  It has made a massive difference which hopefully you can tell in the before and after video how much difference it made. 20250207_161431.mp4   20250207_161431.mp4 Hopefully back working on the car over the next few weeks.   20250207_162801.mp4
    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
×
×
  • Create New...