Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just a question guys my car R32 GTR is being build at the moment they started it & was running fine had a bit of run in time then now its making noise in the head somewhere they havent told me much but they said 1 shim has a couple of marks on it but they havent come 2 a conclusion as yet any1 shed some light.

Tomei cams 280s by 10.5mm intake & exhaust

Tomei buckets & retainers Prep pro valves from Hi octane as for the shims god only knows where they come apparently clearances are fine. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209064-rb26-head/
Share on other sites

yer the clearences are very time consuming to get right i am told, i am sure they will locate the problem when they start looking into it.

My self i am not looking forward to the new cams and valve grind currently being carried out, as clearences are going to be all over the place.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209064-rb26-head/#findComment-3696703
Share on other sites

if they know what there doing, and take their time all the shims can be one size :D

in all our gtr engines the shims are excactly the same size and quiet as a mouse, ( i learnt the hard way after going to the so called "experts")

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209064-rb26-head/#findComment-3697096
Share on other sites

common mistake is the cam base circle to bucket clearance is 3thou different on a STD GTR head due to the fact the exhaust valves are sodium filled. When fitting aftermarket stainless valves this clearance is not used as when the stainless valve "grows" under heat the cam base circle to bucket clearance is insufficient to ensure correct operation.

This has been explained by me to your engine builder and is still arrogantly being ignored. A quick check can be done when the engines hot by measuring the inlet side to make sure the exhaust buckets are clearanced the same.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209064-rb26-head/#findComment-3697164
Share on other sites

common mistake is the cam base circle to bucket clearance is 3thou different on a STD GTR head due to the fact the exhaust valves are sodium filled. When fitting aftermarket stainless valves this clearance is not used as when the stainless valve "grows" under heat the cam base circle to bucket clearance is insufficient to ensure correct operation.

This has been explained by me to your engine builder and is still arrogantly being ignored. A quick check can be done when the engines hot by measuring the inlet side to make sure the exhaust buckets are clearanced the same.

Thats what i was going 2 say paul that you spoke to them but have they listened no. makes me wonder if they listen from experts that have come across these problems before. There apparently getting the bloke that did the head for a cylinder leakage test & diagnose the problem. Maybe faulty part in head god only knows hopefully they figure it out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209064-rb26-head/#findComment-3698205
Share on other sites

Thats what i was going 2 say paul that you spoke to them but have they listened no. makes me wonder if they listen from experts that have come across these problems before. There apparently getting the bloke that did the head for a cylinder leakage test & diagnose the problem. Maybe faulty part in head god only knows hopefully they figure it out.

My money is on the head not being correctly setup for the hardware used, not a faulty part.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209064-rb26-head/#findComment-3698345
Share on other sites

holy hell

ive personally seen the bill...over 9 hours to fit a front diff in sump. We did mine IN the car in under 2 hrs, out of the car its a 1 hour job. 3 hours was charged to clean/degrease sump, baffle plates and oil filter block. Car has the same Hypertune plenumn as your car Russ, was yours a direct fit?, as he was also charged for modifying it and other parts to make it fit...go figure?

:thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209064-rb26-head/#findComment-3708626
Share on other sites

already over $20 000 just in labour costs :thumbsup:

i think a new labour cost record in street GTR engine removal/rebuild/re-install has been smashed.

(Faints)Thats nearly double my rebuild.

This would have to be another mental GTR??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209064-rb26-head/#findComment-3708642
Share on other sites

wow 9 hours! lol

if that was just a straight swap out thats is an absolute joke

the hypertune plenums are a bit harder as the studs need modify from memory as they are too long for the plenum flange, piece cake if the engine is out though, bitch in the car.

hope it gets better for you soon , as it must be pretty damn anoyying especially if you spend good money and you are seeing issues.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209064-rb26-head/#findComment-3708777
Share on other sites

You seriously need to find a new workshop. I had my 25 head converted to run solid lifters aka rb26 with 9.1 lift and theres a lot more dicking around involved in that. It still took my head man way less time than what yours did though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209064-rb26-head/#findComment-3708794
Share on other sites

It seem some shops out there are still learning the ins and out of a 20 Y.O. engine. and they also have seem to charge a premium because it's a GTAHHHH !!!! FFS it's a motor, made of steel and alloy, it's not exactly rocket science...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209064-rb26-head/#findComment-3708893
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
    • Well, yeah, the RB26 is definitely that far off the mark. From a pure technology point of view it is closer to the engines of the 60s than it is to the engines of the last 10 years. There is absolutely nothing special about an RB26 that wasn't present in engines going all the way back to the 60s, except probably the four valve head. The bottom end is just bog standard Japanese stuff. The head is nothing special. Celicas in the 70s were the same thing, in 4cyl 2 valve form. The ITBs are nothing special when you consider that the same Celicas had twin Solexes on them, and so had throttle plates in the exact same place. There's no variable valve timing, no variable inlet manifold, which even other RBs had either before the 26 came out or shortly afterward. The ECU is pretty rude and crude. The only things it has going for it are that the physical structure was pretty bloody tough for a mass produced engine, the twin-turbos and ITBs made for a bit of uniqueness against the competition (and even Toyota were ahead on the twin turbs thing, weren't they?) and the electronic controls and measuring devices (ie, AFMs, CAS, etc) were good enough to make it run well. Oh, and it sounds better than almost anything else, ever. The VR38 is absolutely halfway between the RB generation and the current generation, so it definitely has a massive increase in the sophistication of the electronics, allowing for a lot more dynamic optimisation of mapping. Then there's things like metal treatments and other coatings on things, adoption of variable cam stuff, and a bunch of other little improvements that mean it has to be a better thing than the RB26. But I otherwise agree with you that it is approximately the same thing as a 26. But, skip forward another 10 years from that engine and then the things that I mentioned in previous post come out to play. High compression, massively sophisticated computers, direct injection, clever measuring sensors, etc etc. They are the real difference between trying to make big power with a 26 and trying to make big power with a S/B50/54 (or whatever the preferred BMW engine of the week is).
×
×
  • Create New...