Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys 5 weeks ago i got my r33gtst tuned at creatd on 13psi

r33 gtst with supporting mods and a standard hiflow r33 turbo on 13 psi made 220.6rwk (creatd)

today i got my new clutch installed at EAS and id thought id give it a power run too see what i get on theirs.

196.9 rwk

surely it cannot be right. i mean it is a hiflow turbo...car also has a pfc, full exhaust, z32afm, injectors, fuel pump, blitz fmic.

car is in immaculate condition mechanically.

very confused... i have heard of variances before but thats a big gap

Edited by R33GOD
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209076-very-confusing-power-run/
Share on other sites

Been convered many times before. Every dyno reads differently. From being different type ie hub, roller whatever or from not being calibrated before a run. Alot of variables can affect the power outcome. 196rkw is low for your mods, i'd say the 220 run would be about right. Just stick to one dyno so you can have some form of comparison.

yeah as above been covered a heap of times now.

I take it the ambient temp and humidity etc was all roughly the same? fuel, oil plugs etc?

to get any real worth while numbers i'd say stick to the same dyno and also i'd say same operator..

and same I agree with MR 33, i'd be taking notice of 220, with hi flow and pfc etc 196kw's seem way too low

i think there must be a problem as i had a couple of runs on my mates driveway on the farm. only 2nd and 3rd gear and abit in 4th i was only a car or so infront of him by the end of it. he has a r33 gtst only on 10 psi (stock turbo) and cat back exhaust.

i dont know what could be wrong :D

take it back to the first place, if it makes the same power your car is fine. Then if its struggling to hold a stocker I imagine that reading is out 220rwkw is a shitload more than 140 or 150rwkw they make stock, then maybe the first reading is more accuarate

Edited by monga
it actually goes crap phil. very dissapointed.

Well if its going like crap - there is a problem dude :)

Time to workout whats wrong, something like a fuel reg could have failed, injector leaky maybe?

Many options and fiddly ones too

we found the problem. eas took off the actuator today because he was going to tune it but couldnt due to not having his software.

we monitered the boost tonight and was tapering off to 11 psi instead of 13 where it was set at from creatd originally.

very dissapointed with that

Edited by R33GOD

"dont hold back

is there anybody out there?

feeling something

engage me, let me breathe the courage of your actions

dont hold back make it before the good

the truth is, i am not your cure but i can help you

find a way to reconcile the dark"

BOOOsT! As long as it is a highflow... lol. Cause I was told mine was, 16psi later. BANNG. I never even found my exhaust turbine OR the shaft haha. Guess thats what you get for running no cat and a straight through exhaust hahaha.... The intercooler and throttle body did a pretty good job of collecting the compressor wheel. :domokun:

On the plus side, I ended up with a sick as $20k portable smoke machine with music. lolz

Jack

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If I had "perfect R33 GTR" kinda money I would have bought one of the crazy expensive low mileage HJA cars, but I am sadly not that wealthy. I already picked this car out of various Skylines for sale locally, most of which were worse in some way. Only a few cars were actually better but also more expensive. In terms of buying a motor locally, I at least have the option to inspect it myself and juding the seller as a person, and used or freshly rebuilt engines that some people sell are actually ok price-wise. I knew the car was going to require work, but shit piled up real fast and I haven't even driven 1000km yet as the turbo started oiling like a bitch within a few weeks after I got the car.   I assume it wasn't actually me who cracked it, though there is no way to know when that crack formed and if the previous owner even knew it was there. Buying another 05U Block can be a gamble, yeah, but the cheapest PRP cast block is like twice or more money-wise, and billet is 3 or 3 times as much. For now I am most likely just keeping the current engine, as a rebuild or engine swap isn't happening right now. But I am seriously considering buying a second engine and selling mine in return. Might be a sweet deal at the end.
    • Hi all. I need some help buying the correct size banjo bolts for my 2860 turbos. Because whoever installed them tore up the original part, I ordered new ones of this kind, because I just figured these were the most leak-resistant option as I already had trouble with a shitty braided line. I need to know the thread size of the smaller left hole, that is the turbo oil feed connection. I found out so far that the turbo oil inlet apparently has a 7/16"-24 thread, but I cannot find any listing or description of the thread size on this line. I do not have the original bolts. I tried using the bolts that were in the turbos (the ones that were mounted with the shitty braided line) but they sit very loosely so they can't be the right thread. Means either these bolts are the wrong ones (how do they fit the turbo then? no clue) or the wraparound-lines have a different thread than the turbo oil feed itself. Help is appreciated, asking Nissan directly is obviously not going to work.
    • EDIT: PSA to whoever stumbles upon this thread. It is in fact a crack in the block that caused this concern. Just letting you know. In my case, a few cm long hairline crack going horizontally above the turbo oil feed. Classic RB shit I guess
    • Might as well pop in some cams, head gasket, head studs, and a flex sensor. Full send.
×
×
  • Create New...