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Quiet Screamer Pipe

**RB2530**

By **RB2530**,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

I have to say that this guy really knows his shit. I got to drive this car and YES it has standard injectors and standard ECU.

It drives like a standard ECU.

The thing about this is that he has set the engine up to get AROUND the air flow cut. It IS still there but after setting the car up to get over the Air flow meter cut out point thats when the boost comes on hard..

Its amazing!! its got nothing untill 3500 rpm, then it starts pulling a little bit, then it hits 4500rpm and BOOM the tacho climbs at a alarming speed and i was correcting the steering wheel to keep the car going straight.

I must say I was totally shocked to see this happen, even when i ran it on the dyno it felt good except for the last run where it needs to get the spark plugs gapped a bit smaller, and i ramped it up the normal way, got the car running in 4th gear up to around 80kms a hour, set the load on and FLOORED it and then started the up ramp and it did not hit cut at all.

When i drove it i said yeah this should have 240 to 250 rwkw.. man was i wrong!! 277 !!!

All i can say paul is well done, you have done well with that car. For what it is there is nothing around with the same mods that will even come close to giving it a run for its money.

The guy is a mechanical engineer. i mean wow.. its great to see he has put his know how into his hobby like this.

Well done mate! start a new thread when you post the dyno sheet up, it should sturr some curry thats for sure!!

btw you said it has a 25 in it, but i saw how high that engine was sitting :D

Good work mate, i fully look forward to working with you on our toys in the future!!

I like seeing people doing something different with their cars and the reason why this particular car gets my attention and gets me so excited is because i once too hit a brick wall with this air flow cut and there was nothing i could do to get around it or fix it, i tried and tried and tried and was able to get the car to hammer on the top end by not flooring it soo hard but i never knew there would be a way to set the car up so it drives normally so i gave up after months and months of pulling my hair out and invested $1500 in a power FC.

All i can say is.....

respect2.jpg

For those interested in what the Std ECU can do, Guilt-Toy did some Dyno power runs for me today and results are as follows:

Dyno Dynamics Dynamometer at TurboTechnics Cardiff...

Run 1. 230rwkW at 9psi with AFR = 12.1

Run 2. 265rwkW at 11psi with AFR = 12.2

Run 3. 278 rwkW at 13 psi with AFR = 12.5

Didnt attempt any more boost...I was already happy enough!!

On Run 2 and Run 3 there was a little bit of ignition breakdown due to stock plug gap (didn't have time to regap plugs) but apart from that it was all cool...No sign of airflow cut or anything else scary

And also no-one heard the screamer pipe!!!

Will post up charts once scanned as well as Nissan Consult data...

Thanks Guilt-toy!!! Power FC master!!! and soon to be Std ECU master!!!

**RB2530** Proficient

**RB2530**

Posted
  • Author
Posted
btw you said it has a 25 in it, but i saw how high that engine was sitting ;)

Anthony...thanks for the good wrap...yeah it surprised me too...Umm just to clarify it is an RB30DET with forged internals...

Yeah the engine was sitting higher...38mm in fact..bit of a give away...also makes it heaps easier to adjust cam timing :)

Not sure how this was mixed up ..maybe I was talking about the head and you may have been talking about the block?? :) Anyway clarified...

So for any readers with an RB25DET with stock internals and stock turbo be careful...There is not a lot you can do about the airflow cut...Unfortunately you will never make your engine laggy enough to escape or get around it...Only in ways that will impede the top end efficiency!!! Defeating the whole purpose..

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted (edited)

do you have rods as well?

i ended up getting 336kw yesterday. my boost controller is acting up and it cannot hold a steady boost which is why i cant get anymore out of it at the moment.

I am going to get a replacement soon and go for 400kw

ohh and seeing that your the man in the know how.. we both have a problem that you can work on fixing if you want :)

The coil packs breaking down on .8 plug gap, it will fix it by gapping it down, but it causes the engine to run a bit rough on cruise.

Is there anything you can do to mod the system to work better? lilke boost it up ? if your keen you can make something up to attack this problem so we can run .8 gaps.

Edited by Guilt-Toy
**RB2530** Proficient

**RB2530**

Posted
  • Author
Posted
do you have rods as well?

i ended up getting 336kw yesterday. my boost controller is acting up and it cannot hold a steady boost which is why i cant get anymore out of it at the moment.

I am going to get a replacement soon and go for 400kw

ohh and seeing that your the man in the know how.. we both have a problem that you can work on fixing if you want :)

The coil packs breaking down on .8 plug gap, it will fix it by gapping it down, but it causes the engine to run a bit rough on cruise.

Is there anything you can do to mod the system to work better? lilke boost it up ? if your keen you can make something up to attack this problem so we can run .8 gaps.

Yeah I used REV rods...Pistons are CP with 8.3-1 comp ....

BTW Not sure if you took much notice of my CAS but its pretty radically advanced. I have milled out the slots and made up an aluminium washer to hold it tight..Because I have lower comp ratio, very free flowing exhaust (lower cyl head temperature), and lower intake temps I can go for more ignition advance...probably nothing new here for you...Also because the exhaust cam is at 4deg retard you also have to advance the CAS just to counter act retard angle on the camshaft..

I have been told before that it is not all that important where the CAS is adjusted too because the Nissan ECU can correct for it...I am 100% certain this is not the case....Because I cant change any maps, I change the base timing by moving the CAS...So it is not 15deg base...Probably more like 20-25deg btdc at idle...I basically set it by feel...I advance and advance and listen for the old faithfull rattle and then back the CAS a degree or 2.. I try and pick a warm day to do it...Of course by this stage the ECU has detected the knock and has R&R'd...You just need to drive the car around lightly for a while and it will come back...

Once again this is not as good as a fully tunable ECU but it gets me by...

Also not sure of you noticed my idle was a bit lumpy?? It was because the higher base timing...On a cold start the engine sounds really lumpy and cool...

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

i did not notice the idle as such, i did notice the CAS, i knew you would have had it running a bit more advanced so i figured thats what you did to change it.

it would be interesting to put a power fc in your car for a day and see what we could get out of it :)

Your engine is a very similar setup to mine, low compression, h beam rods... forgies.. did you use acl race series bearings?

**RB2530** Proficient

**RB2530**

Posted
  • Author
Posted
do you have rods as well?

i ended up getting 336kw yesterday. my boost controller is acting up and it cannot hold a steady boost which is why i cant get anymore out of it at the moment.

I am going to get a replacement soon and go for 400kw

ohh and seeing that your the man in the know how.. we both have a problem that you can work on fixing if you want :)

The coil packs breaking down on .8 plug gap, it will fix it by gapping it down, but it causes the engine to run a bit rough on cruise.

Is there anything you can do to mod the system to work better? lilke boost it up ? if your keen you can make something up to attack this problem so we can run .8 gaps.

Yes mate happy to help out where I can....If I was you I would look at a bigger exhaust...at least 3.5" up to the cat...I also heat wrap up to the CAT...The reason for this is it does keep the exhaust gas temp higher...The higher the better...The Cat is the biggest restriction and if you temps are high, the gas viscosity is lower so the Cat is less restrictive...You can wrap the whole system but with a Mild steel system you will f%^k it up in no time due to rust...I speak from experience here... :)

And then there is the screamer pipe...I cant recommend this enough...One of the best mods I have done...

We should have a chat about doin this on your car...I dont have a lot of spare time at the moment because of work but that may change soon..we could maybe work something out...all in the name of horsepower

**RB2530** Proficient

**RB2530**

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i did not notice the idle as such, i did notice the CAS, i knew you would have had it running a bit more advanced so i figured thats what you did to change it.

it would be interesting to put a power fc in your car for a day and see what we could get out of it :)

Your engine is a very similar setup to mine, low compression, h beam rods... forgies.. did you use acl race series bearings?

No just used Nissan bearings and an N1 oil pump...I always use 100% synthetic oil such as Motul 8100 excess...5W-40...I change it every 4-5000km religously....

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

yeah i used acl race series... my last rb30det with standard nissan bearings spun a bearing so i used acl race series this time for my forged motor.

I use Motul 300v chrono, i use the 15w50 one i think..

and the screamer pipe deal sounds good :) let me know when your not so busy and we can make a legal one :)

cheers man ;)

GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
Posted
The coil packs breaking down on .8 plug gap, it will fix it by gapping it down, but it causes the engine to run a bit rough on cruise.

Don't want to interrupt your little chat, but... :/

GT make sure the frame that coil packs bolt to is well grounded to the head. Sand the contact points, use some of that conductive grease the japs love. Try not to gap it down.

No one seems to bolster ign systems in piston imports much; they just keep decreasing the gap. I think CDI or at least the HKS twin spark is a must for your type of power.. Imo.

GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
Posted

Not too complicated, slike a hybrid CDI / transistor switched coil charging system.

Bread and butter V8 thing, to help thier shite dizzy / single coil setups.

I'm a massive fan of strong ignition systems, and big (.8-1.0) gaps, and HKS make it soo damm easy these days :/

**RB2530** Proficient

**RB2530**

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah I can't think of anything that could easily be done to fix the ignition and give you best of both worlds apart from more power!! I had seen that HKS were doing some sort of ignition amplifier which would probably give the coil pack a bigger punch to produce a stronger spark...

I knew that the old school V8 boys always used pretty high powered ignition mods...If you have ever seen a top alchohol or top fuel engine up close the ignition systems are huge...

GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
Posted

Magneto straight from Satan's bed side table :/

Even street push rod Dinosaurs need a good bolstering, hence the nice MSD style setups.

CDI and multiple sparks per cycle just seem like common sense to me, specially at low rpm, where funky cams doing their overlap thing.

**RB2530** Proficient

**RB2530**

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I'm a massive fan of strong ignition systems, and big (.8-1.0) gaps, and HKS make it soo damm easy these days :D

One extra thing I have just remembered is indexing the spark plugs...What you do is make sure that the spark plug is installed so that it faces the inlet side of the engine...ie the spark is not shielded by the ground electrode...Its really easy to do...all you do is put the spark plug in a plug socket with a non-ratchet handle and orientate the spark plug in line with the handle. Then tension the plug such that the handle faces the inlet side of the engine.. occasionally you amy need to grind the start of the thread a small amount so that the tension picks up at the right angle...

How good this works??? I dont really know? Has anyone else heard of this before???

Guilt-toy maybe something we could try one day if you haven't already...

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