Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is this about right.. i got a quote for the 100xxx service on my gtr and nearly fell over when i got the quote back of $1200...

Using genuine parts, the timing belt and water pump change, coolant flush. Redline shock proof gear oil for the gear box, Transfer case oil change, Atessa flush, Diff oil synthetic, Brake flush with dot 5 fluid and Clutch flush, Power steer flush.

$1200?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209158-service/
Share on other sites

where did you get that quote from....wont surprise me because it does take a lot of labor time doing the water pump and timing belt change....plus your using the good fluids so they will cost a bit of dosh....give a few other places a call and see how they give you a quote on doing the same things

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209158-service/#findComment-3698329
Share on other sites

Thats unbelievable.. I think i'd cry spending so much on a service.

In the past I've always done the work myself. But with slightly less quality oil that what it looks like you have gone with.

$090 - cambelt

$085 - waterpump

$180 - tensioners

$65 - Motor oil

$14 - oil filter

$90 - g/box oil

$70 - diff oil

$30 - brake/clutch fluid flush.

------

$624

GTR = just that little bit more expensive. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209158-service/#findComment-3698409
Share on other sites

Thats unbelievable.. I think i'd cry spending so much on a service.

In the past I've always done the work myself. But with slightly less quality oil that what it looks like you have gone with.

$090 - cambelt

$085 - waterpump

$180 - tensioners

$65 - Motor oil

$14 - oil filter

$90 - g/box oil

$70 - diff oil

$30 - brake/clutch fluid flush.

------

$624

GTR = just that little bit more expensive. :)

Where do you get a cambelt and waterpump that cheap???

haha yer i know fell off my car especially when u add $500 for the power fc tune and install lol!

Its around $600 in labour for the water pump and cam belt install plus rad flush alone.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209158-service/#findComment-3698428
Share on other sites

hey joel how much can u get the tensioners for i can get a gates timing belt 4 $140 IS THIS THE SAME BRAND U get also could u pm me with the address of ur work so i can check it out :(

I bought a Genuine Nissan cam belt for $90.

The tensioners are $80 each from holden then u can reco them for $40 (2 bearings inside so 2x20) if you have a press.

I grab the NSK bearings as used in the genuine nissan tensioners from some bearing company. Its not CBC as they want stupid prices for the bearings and are not genuine NSK.

I don't bother with an idler as they are stupidly priced; so 2 tensioners it is. + the tensioners are locking tensioners so just as good as an idler once nipped up.

The dayco cam belt for the rb30det is $38. Its done a little over 70,000km's and still looks ok. Nearing time for another service though. :(

wow how is the water pump so cheap? I am about to buy one for my R34 and Nissan price is $227.45 and Kudos motorsport (which I was told would be cheapest) is $238.00.

The water pump is aftermarket from repco/motormates/sprint auto's. There is a cheaper one (-$10) and it doesn't come with a gasket, I go the better one. I've never had issues with them and this one has been good with no leaks at 70,000km's so far. The old rb20 did around 100,000km's and the aftermarket pump still looked fine.

Unless you are 7000rpm+ (n1 water pump) all the time I don't really see a need for a genuine water pump.

Some things like clutch master/slave cylinders etc its definitely worth going genuine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209158-service/#findComment-3699893
Share on other sites

I bought a Genuine Nissan cam belt for $90.

The tensioners are $80 each from holden then u can reco them for $40 (2 bearings inside so 2x20) if you have a press.

I grab the NSK bearings as used in the genuine nissan tensioners from some bearing company. Its not CBC as they want stupid prices for the bearings and are not genuine NSK.

I don't bother with an idler as they are stupidly priced; so 2 tensioners it is. + the tensioners are locking tensioners so just as good as an idler once nipped up.

The dayco cam belt for the rb30det is $38. Its done a little over 70,000km's and still looks ok. Nearing time for another service though. :(

The water pump is aftermarket from repco/motormates/sprint auto's. There is a cheaper one (-$10) and it doesn't come with a gasket, I go the better one. I've never had issues with them and this one has been good with no leaks at 70,000km's so far. The old rb20 did around 100,000km's and the aftermarket pump still looked fine.

Unless you are 7000rpm+ (n1 water pump) all the time I don't really see a need for a genuine water pump.

Some things like clutch master/slave cylinders etc its definitely worth going genuine.

sweet as ur a life saver was just about to fork out a heap on other peoples prices cheers :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209158-service/#findComment-3699927
Share on other sites

I bought a Genuine Nissan cam belt for $90.

The tensioners are $80 each from holden then u can reco them for $40 (2 bearings inside so 2x20) if you have a press.

I grab the NSK bearings as used in the genuine nissan tensioners from some bearing company. Its not CBC as they want stupid prices for the bearings and are not genuine NSK.

the gates racing belt is closer to $140 yes, the normal timing belt is like $80-90 tho. as for the tensioner its $100 RRP (bearings included) on its own....

if u are serious sweet R33 come in and see me, ill look after ya :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209158-service/#findComment-3700116
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
×
×
  • Create New...