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work meisters? :D

If you after some newies. throw me a pm with size and offsets etc. :)

Oh and how did you go with that ecu problem? :nyaanyaa:

cool will pm you about rims soon..

ahhh that ECU problem... man whata headache... it turned out my ECU wasn't sending a constant signal to the fuel pump thats why it would cut out mid throrrle and a explains the problems i had a long time ago with the car not starting due to no fuel pump signal.. New ECU works fines... not a problem - going to a mega squirt soon so by by vale air flow meter and the rest.. will be testing it in the next month or so

you gotta keep me informed on what progress u make!

im very keen to go megasquirt too....

and works510... do you still have those old L20et parts you had forsale ages ago? im still after the intake manifold and whatever else is lying around...

just done the s13 front brake/coilover conversion.

easy as, shit bolts straight in. even std brake line. (if not already said) just gotta machine out the camber tops so can have more adjustment because ya have 2 mount em backwards.

soon as my brackets arrive ill convert the rear to r31 disks with vs commo callipers. would the master cyl still b able 2 cope with it? cos when i put z31 front brakes on my 31 there was bit more pedal travel. completly different set up i know tho...

Firstly, you have to decide what you want the car to do???????

And then remember ....... the sky is the limit, but only limited by the thickness of your wallet.

My take is fairly simple, IF your not entering this car at Bathurst and or not planning to do 160 laps of anywhere at 10/10ths, why get involved in unnecessary conversion upgrades.

The PJR cars of the mid - late 80's, DR30's driven by the likes of George Fury, Glenn Seton, John Bowe, Gary Scott and others in the ATCC ran a rear brake set up of 290mm diameter and 2 spot calipers. STOCK DR30 rears are 290 x 10, so where is your problem???????? and it is a simple bolt on upgrade.

For any road car, that's a regular cruiser and not racer, DRUM brakes were probably the best on the rear. Remember that lining/pad compounds have to get to an optimum operating temperature before they work best and therefore rear ventilated discs are not necessarily the best for your application as they don't get hot enough to work efficiently.

My car has BNR32 GTR fronts (296 x 32 rotors) and 4 spot calipers (very nearly bolt on) with stock DR30 rears. I use EBC pads front & rear and on track time use upgrade them one (1) grade. Front Green to Red & Rear Black to Green. I also have a 1" master cylinder & 10" booster, both STOCK on DR30's.

My new L20 (ha ha) ET motor I expect to put about 350HP to the ground, or a little better and coupled with a body weight of about 1150kg I can't foresee any problem.

My Road wheels are MONZA Speed wheels, (16 x 8 & 16 x 7) +38 offset, my Drag combo is SUPER ADVAN tri spoke (16 x 8 & 16 x 7) +35 offset, my Track combo is a custom modified BBS Lorinser wheel (16 x 8 all round) For road use I have 225/50 on the back & 205/55 on the front and it all has to do with economics, but I use the best tires I can find for my money. Drag is a little different because to get good times, special tires need to be used, and on the back I have 265/60 Mickey Thompson ET Drag radials (designed for 8" rims) and fronts are eco friendly Toyo's. Track! I have 245/45 all round.

I have been in a car, an MR30 sedan, that has 195kW at the wheels and has a 310mm Commodore front conversion incl 2 spot calipers and stock MR hatch rears. It has 17 in rims and it slows quite well from 220k on Braidwood Road near Goulburn, but it doesn't STOP like mine. This car has 17 x 7's all round shod with Bridgestone's last I heard

Remember this when playing with wheels and tires .................. the ABSOLUTE BEST & BIGGEST foot print you can put on the road and keep some relevance to original tire spec is 245/45 x 16 and they were designed to be fitted to 16 x 8's. Go bigger in diameter, the tire gets narrower & same when going smaller than 16. Some other thoughts that maybe should be looked at, is insurance, most companies will accept a +1 concept, but as far as I know NONE accept +2 and onwards, other than specialists for enthusiasts like Shannons.

The other problem with using 4 spot front calipers is spacing? With my BNR32 GTR fronts, I have to use a 20mm spacer which is illegal in most states of Oz, but after initial registration I don't have a problem with the RTA coz the annual inspection is merely a safety check and wheels don't come off.

That's about my 2 bob's worth.

Cheers, D

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"So whats the largest wheel width and tyre size that will comfortably fit under the guards without flaring the guards or going too deep into the wheel arch?"

Interesting that this has come up, as today I was at the Auto Electrician's and found THIS! outside his workshops. Very typical of todays "LOOKS GOOD" & "Stupidity" attitude as opposed to practicality, good handling & quality?

The below pictures are of an S13 180SX

The tires are Front: 225/30 x 20 Nitto NEO GEN & Rear: 225/35 x 20 Austyre EAGLE fitted on wheel widths I don't know, BUT:

Look at the pictures.

The tread face on all tires is easily 35mm inside of the rims, the rim protector on the tire wall does absolutely nothing as it's also inside of the rim edges, the tire walls are exposed to ANYTHING that happens to come along and all the the name of LOOKS GOOD!

Given that the section width on a test rim size of 8.5" is 225mm and the side walls are at least an inch inside of the wheel rim I guess these rims would be 11 or 12 inches wide, BUT the tire width (tread on the ground) is no bigger than what is on my 8 x 16's.

Take into consideration, the standard tire size for an S13 & R30 are both 195/60 x 15 with an OD of 612mm and this car has an overall tire diameter of 648mm?

What does this tell you???

At no point is there ANY tire outside of the wheel rim, so the wheels are subjected to what ever comes along on this vehicle.

"BUT IT LOOKS GOOD" ??????????????????????????????????????????????

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Not the point benny, this owner thinks it looks good?

It is showing that an 11 or 12 inch wheel is possible, but the tire has no benefits.

Your big dish can be 8, 9 or 10 inches wide but your tire is going to be stretched onto it and therefore there is no benefit.

Tell me where the sense, or common sense that any tire be fitted to anything other than recommended by the manufacturer???

look's like I've created a bit of controversy or difference of opinion with this thread... brilliant, that is what a forum is for.....

As for the Silvia in those photos i think everyone would agree that they are most definitely NOT a practical wheel and tyre set up. Nor do they look good when something has been dangerously streached over a rim that is clearly too large for the tyre. I'd like to see him keep a decent amount of speed up in any sort of corner just to see the look on their face as the tyre pops off the rim and digs a sizable whole in the road...

now.... I'm running 215/60 15's which is slightly unusual size and should have 205/65 15's on there i know. As for insurance as well as practical purposes it would be ridiculous for me to strap some 225 tyres over an 18x10 inch rim and that is not what i intend to do.

At most I'll be going a 17x8 if not 7/7.5inch with 225/235 on the rear and keeping a 205/215 print on the front. - what i was concerned about was whether the fronts would scrub out on full lock as i was told they would with anything bigger than the 215's i have on there at the moment.

The other thing i'm assessing is whether or not i should/will have to change stud patterns/hubs/controls arms etc if I'm going to Z32 fronts as this will force me to reconsider wheel specs. Or alternatively i'll just have some custom rims made to suit running on a steel rim for recycling purposes. This would of course be a more expensive exercise even with friends working in this particular field.

what is funny about my dilemma is that i don't NEED the extra braking power just yet but WANT it as buying some new DBA 317 slotted rotors at $250+ 'each' seems like a waste of money when i'd have to change the set up for when the new motor goes in for compliance and engineering certificates

Damn thats expensive for r30 rotors :). Standard DBA s14 rotors are $105, must just be the intergrated hub.

As for wheels, i like them wide, and tyres...I use what ever on them wide wheels so that they fit under 1600 guards. 185/60 on 14x7.5 and 8's >_<

" The other thing i'm assessing is whether or not i should/will have to change stud patterns/hubs/controls arms etc "

Why not just re drill the rotors to 4 x 114.3 as I have for the BNR32 GTR rotors??? They are 5 x 114.3 stock, just means they will have 8 holes in them.

" DBA 317 slotted rotors at $250+ 'each' "

As Dan says, this seems a little steep, because my slotted GTR rotors were less than this by nearly half.

" reconsider wheel specs "

Just use a spacer, but get the car registered with something available without first. I got mine registered (our Blue Slip/ Initial rego form) with stock DR brakes all round and changed them after.

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