Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm sure lots of people have done this but I can't find anything by searching. I'm keen to see where and how people have mounted their batteries as that would save me a lot of time. Pics would be greatly appreciated. I'd particularly like to see the set up in a racecar (not sure if CAMS allows it) as that'll have been scrutineered and give me a good idea of what I need to do to stop the battery flying through the back seat. Also race people can you tell me where you got your relocation kits from please?

Not sure if I'll use a dry cell or standard battery.

Cheers and thanks

cams do allow it, but I'm not sure I've ever seen a wet cell battery inside a car. we are about to relocate one for a 32 and are just going to rewire it.

edit, and of course mount it nice and solid.

I think its a great idea..to the guy who said we do it...Any chance of you posting up some pics ? I want to see just how the end product looks..Good idea pulling some weight from the front of the car and moving it to the rear....

sorry mate no pics at the moment

you cant see the wiring and the battery box is just a black box in the corner of the boot

When you say corner, is it mounted hard up against the back of the back seat generally in the left corner ? As thats the location i had in mind

cams do allow it, but I'm not sure I've ever seen a wet cell battery inside a car. we are about to relocate one for a 32 and are just going to rewire it.

edit, and of course mount it nice and solid.

Hi Duncan

Do you mean inside as in 'inside the cabin'? I'm talking about relocating to the boot as in R33 and R34 location. My preference is to go for dry cell. I'll be interested to see where you put it, the wiring etc is easy it's just the choice of location and method of mounting that I'm keen to see.

Cheers

yeah in the cabin. remember the boot is not sealed from the car so a scruitineer will consider it inside the cabin either way. we were going to use a battery box to hold it just bolted down - doesn't have to be pretty in the race car.

presentation is always important though even in a race car.

Id just use the normal battery box and vent it to the outside of the car

For mountings I normally buy a universal battery clamp from repco or super crap and drill holes through the box into the floor to put the hooks through. Works fine.

presentation is always important though even in a race car.

Id just use the normal battery box and vent it to the outside of the car

For mountings I normally buy a universal battery clamp from repco or super crap and drill holes through the box into the floor to put the hooks through. Works fine.

+2

Not complicated. B.box (i like Moroso's ANDA cert'd), some 0 Guage, distro blocks, carefull planning, proper rubber bungs and rust preventative on chassis holes cut.

Done.

Benefit in a GTR is weight moving from front driver side, to rear pass side.

Not hard.

PS: I hate despise those $20 black strap down ones. Looks like recycled shoe lace ends.

Edited by GeeTR
presentation is always important though even in a race car.

Id just use the normal battery box and vent it to the outside of the car

For mountings I normally buy a universal battery clamp from repco or super crap and drill holes through the box into the floor to put the hooks through. Works fine.

I'd like to use something more solid than the floor, even if it meant making a dedicated shelf like in the R33 mounted on two hard points.

I can understand why race cars have boxes mandated, and why it makes sense to have a vent. But the R33 has no box and therefore no vent, or an infinite one depending how you look at it. Mounting aside, I guess I have to talk to the nice people at the NSW RTA about the requirements for a streeter.

Edited by Scooby
I made this setup a few months ago. Cheers to wrxhoon for the sealed battery, and femno for the surge tank :/

Its about 98% done

Thanks for the pic, that's exactly what I had in mind. Can I ask how you secured the plate / base to the floor and if there's anything ie reo on the other side?

Cheers

Ah Mick nice work mate! turned out beautifully!

Ive been thinking about doing the battery shift too, just need to find the time!

One other question - and sorry to hijack but its probly a good question - whats the go up front?

ie do you use some kind of rubberised fixing point for the +? so you can run your other wiring from it? like fans and amps and fuel pumps etc?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
    • I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
×
×
  • Create New...