Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There is an article in the latest HPI magazine about getting 11s in your skyline...it is claimed there that around 220rwkw or slightly more is all you need for a 11 sec pass...don't quote me on that though...but whats said in that article carries alot of truth...the rest of the car's setup is just as important...so aim for about that much power or slightly more and concentrate on other areas...and don't forget driver skill too...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209779-turbo-for-time/#findComment-3713318
Share on other sites

As stated in HPI No90 10 ways to an 11 second 1/4 time R33 GTST.

Stock coil overs, stock turbo, stock injectors, rising rate fuel pressure reg, a well tuned aftermarket EMS, fmic, 3-4" free flowing exhaust split dump, 1 bar boost, 15" Drag radial tyres inflated to 20 psi, strong single plate clutch, 1/4 tank of fuel.

Also remove any excess weight from your car like spare tyre, passenger seats, etc.

Sounds like a good recipe for 220 rwkw.

To get into the 11 second mark with these mods would also need some drag racing experience i would think. As also stated in the mag.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209779-turbo-for-time/#findComment-3714806
Share on other sites

Yeh the latest HPi has mainly how to get your skylines doing 11's! pretty good read. I was reading it all night. Geting slicks for your ride would be good to!!

Slicks..why bother, why would you go to a drag stip, run a 12, bolt your street rims back and only have a 13 second car all of the time. Although ' street ' rubber is a harder way of getting the times, atleast you can drive away from the drag strip after you've done a 12 second pass in a 12 second car. Don't always believe what you read in HPI too :domokun:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209779-turbo-for-time/#findComment-3714821
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have done smoke test and can’t see any leak on high or low side.   checked pump and fluid can flow through. Removed the high pressure from steering and did smoke test and same on low side, no leak.   puzzled. Thinking why if it was all ok it suddenly went as car was off road for a year. Don’t want to disassemble pump yet as i can see fluid / air( compressor) can flow through with no issues
    • Which manifold mate? Meanwhile......Mark is wondering how bonnet vents would look on the NC 🤣
    • Actually,  just remembered there should be info in the threads (somewhere) about swapping to a manual steering rack and deleting power steering all together. 
    • Also had a look at the Nissan JP website looks like the 400r has a slightly shorter ratio than than the regular V37 3.133 VS 2.937 which from a guy who has driven both 3.69 vs 4.11 ratios in the S15 is bugger all. Seems that the AUTO Z runs the same ratio as the 400R but can't find any info as to if its an open or LSD? More often than not the auto LSD is open
    • Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.
×
×
  • Create New...