Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Im planning on getting a hydraulic handbrake installed on my 33 which will be driven on the street weekly & drifted/circuited on the track probably every month.

Just wondering if anyone has been pulled over by police running a hydraulic handbrake... Im guessing they are illegal...

Has anyone done a setup where they have both the standard cable handbrake & hydraulic so its still legal??

Any info/advice would be nice.

I was considering a Hydro setup but if you properly tighten/adjust the cable handbrake then I have found no real need.

Eitehr way, if you run a hydro on teh street it is illegal, even if you have the stock cable handbrake still functioning. The reason is the same as why you can't have a line locker kit, no tampering of the brakes.

I believe what you MIGHT be able to do is have a 2nd set of calipers installed with a 2nd set of lines etc to the handbrake. So its completely seperate to your normal braking system, and you also still need to retain the standard cable ratchet handbrake. Reason I say this is one of our work cars has a hydrolic handbrake (defencive/performace driving school) and I highly doubt we would have a mod like that, that wasnt legal.

As above tho, best way is to check with an engineer, and the current state laws.

properly setup drum will be just as good as hydro

Quoted for truth. Ryan knows all.

Get some new cables, some Project Mu or URAS drum shoes and a dori knob, and work just as well as a Hydro, be more legal, and probably be cheaper.

Driven/skidded a similar setup in my 32, Have a hydro in my 31, and If I could use a factory style setup in the 31, I would over a hydro.

Yeah, there's a guy I know with an S14 who runs 2 handbrakes (with 2 handles in cabin). He has his stock one for street legality, and he has a hydraulic one for dori.

Don't think he's had cop hassles with it, but then he doesn't drive like a cock on the street.

Hey guys,

Im planning on getting a hydraulic handbrake installed on my 33 which will be driven on the street weekly & drifted/circuited on the track probably every month.

Just wondering if anyone has been pulled over by police running a hydraulic handbrake... Im guessing they are illegal...

Has anyone done a setup where they have both the standard cable handbrake & hydraulic so its still legal??

Any info/advice would be nice.

get this into ya! it might help ya!

http://secretdrift.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=17443

he says he has the same setup in his r33 but with the cable brake still attatched for street.

I have just the hydro in my car, its driven daily :D

And for the people who say a good cable will be the same, have you ever used a hydro?

It has a totally differant effect on how the car reacts when you pull it, its hard to explain but instead of just locking then unlocking, its so much faster to happen and it throws the car at the corner, its awsome!!

Makes doing big entrys look so much more dramatic because you instantly have more angle. They are so great! So much fun!

Edited by sherman89
And for the people who say a good cable will be the same, have you ever used a hydro?

Driven/skidded a similar setup in my 32, Have a hydro in my 31, and If I could use a factory style setup in the 31, I would over a hydro.

Still would have a fresh cable setup over a hydro. :D

Thats too hard in a 31 though.

Ok by the look of things, it seems its pretty obvious u can get good results from a cable setup, which is most probably what i will be going for now as i want as much stuff legal in my car as possible.

My second, more important question now is... even with the URAS rear drum shoe setup etc does the cable end up getting lazy after 2-3 laps on the track?? Cos my standard handbrake setup on the 33 wouldnt even lock up after 6 or 7 pulls in the dry...

I really want to hear that this URAS kit eliminates the laziness/stretch in the cable after being pulled a few times...

Edited by Dean_HR31

My 2c - I had a hydro and went back to a good cable / drum set-up with GOOD pads. (Tried the URAS but like the Projct Mu ones better) I actually find it heaps better than the hydro on a skyline.

The problem you have now (loss of lock up) isn't cable strech its the normal pads overheating. These "drift" pads are a high friction / higher temp pad. I used to have the same issues for my khana stuff but I have no pad fade at all with the Project Mu pads (I got them from greenline fyi)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey everyone, I recently bought myself a 2001 Nissan Stegea M35, and I've had a few issues that I had to fix, my car would start intermittently and I had a bad rocker cover leak, after a couple days of looking I finally found a part number that interchanges with the OEM starter as the OEM starters at $1300 and I can't afford that, this starter was only $270 and I replaced the start and still had the same issues, I posted a video asking for help online and it went very well, some guy said it was probably a bad ignition switch so I took my dash apart and turns out my ignition switch was half screwed in and was loose, once it was tightened it fired right up, I found a local place called "Boost factory" and they sold me a part of OEM Nissan rocker covers, they were $600 which was a shocker but I couldn't find them anywhere else, so I installed them and fixed my oil leak as the old rocker cover was cracked and warped, I now need to replace my boost air inlet hoses as they have some cracks.
    • I am being real ocd and do not want to make amy mistakes so appreciate all help provided. I am overly cautious so asking for opinion even if i know the answer   few questions,   1.re tensioner, should spring be greased lightly?    2.tensioner has two washers , one pressure washer and other has recessed/ seat. I am going to put the recessed one facing tensioner where edges are cut out and pressure washer on top   3. my car has custom triger kit sold few years ago by guy who initially built the engine. I moved the crank gear and it moved in and out easy, only way to remove belt is to slide the crankshaft gear forward which I did. I have seen these being very tough to move , anything to do with my woodruff key?   it has a crank sensor shown in purple which I assume reads from the 12 teeth position mounted to the crankcase gear   4. timing belt doesn’t have arrow stating front or back just a arrow which I think is direction of rotation . Do you agree?   5.i figured out why my crankcase cover was worn as there was no washer installed over the crankcase cover before the harmonic balancer was put in place. It is missing, anyone knows the part number? It looks like this https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-crankshaft-timing-gear-rear-plate-washer-nissan-s13-ca18-a31-r32-rb20-r33-r34-c33-c34-c35-rb25?currency=USD   https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4535.382Zy2 https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4537.382dSz https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4534.382q4U  
    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
×
×
  • Create New...