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  • 2 weeks later...

Good tutorial, just wondering would it be possible to use a missile switch, i.e. one that is either on or off (or in this case one would be hi and one low?). The reason i ask is; A) I already have a redundant missile switch in the dash courtesy of the old owner and B) Then you would know whether your in high/low just by looking (rather then boosting to find out!) because I am going to mount the controller in the glove box.

If anyone knows how to do this if it is possible I would appreciate if they posted up instructions as I am not electronically savy enough to figure it out myself! Cheers

  • 3 months later...
  • 5 months later...
that won't work (on-off) but this similar one will (momentary on)

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...mp;SUBCATID=448

thanks heaps for that duncan, should look nuts with a missile cover on it :P

yeah bit hard to guess without a multimeter....get a battery or borrow one. where are you?

yea ill buy one when i head out tomorrow, its one of those retarded mini- batteries.. lol probably be better off just buying a new multimeter :D ill post my results tomorrow :) hopefully i don't burn the car down by then :blink:

Hey I know this is an old thread but I thought I would bump it up.

I am putting in a 12V basic ON OFF switch for my ECU so when the ECU gets 12V it is in high boost mode and when it doesn't see the 12V it is in low boost.

I am using my profec B spec II as a boost gauge only and would like it to switch between high and low along with the ECU so the warning levels for high and low change.

I know people have said you cant use an ON OFF switch to do this but I think this little circuit should work. I will go and grab a capacitor some time today in between pretending to study math and see how it goes.

Relay is just your basic 12V 4 prong relay from jaycar for $4. Not 100% sure on the size of the capacitor yet.

Sorry if you don't understand my drawing :)

post-45259-1271978026_thumb.png

ok now im confused, i used a AUX cable i had around here but it only has 2 cables (white / red) am i missing something here?

I know its an old post but I figured someone should answer it. There should be wire which is just bare that will go around the outside of the white and red wire. This acts as shielding.

I think the red one should be your 5V and the shielding should be the ground :)

Ok little bit of an update on my little circuit I drew up. I have modified the circuit so that I run a small resister in parallel with the capacitor or else it will not drain the power from the capacitor and the coil in the relay will only switch once until you wait for a long time for the power in the capacitor to drain. So I soldered a small resistor in there as the picture below shows (1st Pic).

This circuit has a little issue at the moment though. It will momentarily earth the 5V but it will only do it when I turn the switch on, it wont do it when I turn the switch off. I think I can get around this by putting in a little single pole double throw relay. So when I am not sending 12V+ to the ECU the +ve side of the CAP is connected to ground and when I send the 12V+ to the ECU the relay sends the +ve side of the CAP the 12V+ (therefore charging the cap).

This next circuit is also attached (2nd Pic). This is different to the other circuit because when the 12V+ isnt going to the ECU the +ve side of the capacitor is then earthed. So when I turn the power off, the capacitor is earthed and the discharge of energy should momentarily earth the 5V from the EBC again.

In summary it SHOULD trigger to hi boost when I send a constant 12V and then when I turn it off it should trigger low boost mode. In theory anyway. Will find out when I go pick up a SPDT relay.

EDIT: I am using a 16V 330uF capacitor

post-45259-1272206637_thumb.png

post-45259-1272207192_thumb.jpg

Edited by Lukas 33

yikes. that is a lot harder than a momentary switch!

I'm sure you know what you are doing.....but won't this all work backwards if someone presses the button on the controller as well? At least until you press it again.

yikes. that is a lot harder than a momentary switch!

I'm sure you know what you are doing.....but won't this all work backwards if someone presses the button on the controller as well? At least until you press it again.

hahaha yeh it is a little bit more complex :S I was (and still am not) sure if the vipec ECU will accept a momentarily digital input to trigger high and low boost maps or whether it had to be constant 12V+. So I just thought I would fiddle around with that over the weekend until I could contact ray or someone.

Thought I would just share what I came up with. Just in case someone is as bored/retarded as I am :thumbsup: Guess this sort of circuit could be used in some other application in the car maybe.

Yeh it will all be back to front if someone sneakily pushes the button on the boost controller :|

Also a small update:

I removed the resister from the "final" circuit as the resister was being a thieving bitch and stealing all of the power from the cap that was meant to go through the relay coil. So only use the resister if you only want the momentary switch to happen when constant 12V is supplied (Like the second circuit image I put up).

After I have contacted one of the vipec guys tomorrow and found out if the ecu will do momentary switching or not I will decide whether or not I will experiment with different size capacitors. NOTE: the 300uF works fine for the second circuit. I only want to try different capacitors for the final circuit.

Dont suppose you happen to know if the vipec takes momentary inputs by any chance?

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