Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Ive been getting a few p.m's recently asking about the reults ive had with my HKS 3037 Pro S turbo, instead of answering them i thought why not make a new thread lol.

Anyway i had the car tuned yesterday so here are the results

Mods:

Stock Internal RB25DET

Stock intake/ehxaust manifolds

HKS 3037 Pro S turbo kit, 56T A/R 0.68

HKS adjustable internal wastegate

HKS Stainless steel split dump pipe

HKS Front pipe

3" decat pipe

HKS Silent High Power stainless steel catback exhaust

HKS 3" alloy intake pipe

Apexi Power FC

Apexi Power FC Boost control kit

Apexi Power Intake Pod filter

Blitz LM Front Mount Intercooler

Nissan Z32 AFM

Nismo fuel pump

Nismo 555cc injectors

R.I.P.S oil catch tank

Exedy heavy duty clutch

Splitfire coils

Alloy radiator

NGK BCPR6ES spark plugs

The car made 270rwkw on 17psi and running on crap 95octane fuel, Tuned by Andre Simons of Speedtech Motorsport

Picture016.jpg

Picture017.jpg

Im very happy with it considering the fuel im using.

What you guys think?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209907-hks-3037-pro-s-results/
Share on other sites

top results mate :D

getting a 3076r strapped on atm. my power target is exactly what you got - 270rwkw at 17psi.

how well behaved is it on the road?

Actually its real nice on the road, 2nd tends to just grip on and the car takes off, but will spin the wheels if you try to, 1st actually grips pretty well to from what i have felt so far, i havnt really tried 1st that much yet to be honest.

Boost comes on fast and it just takes off, its dosent kick in like a switch at all, its a bit hard to explain, but even in 5th gear it still hauls!

why are you only running 95 oct fuel?

Thats all we have in my town, i could have used 98 but that would mean i would have to drive 15mins to the petrol station everytime i want to fill up which is a hassel.

98 would have been great though, if we had it here i would have used it for sure.

Edited by nizmo_freek

98 would for sure. No doubt about better fuel equaling more power if the tune is there to support it.

Dyna pack read a bit higher than out Dyno Dynamic from what most comparo's show here being 15psi/270rwkw usually is what people make here on 17psi with the same turbo etc.

Great result, boost holds nicely too, very minimal spike.

Good to hear the delivery is good, i would have expected a tad snappy with the smaller rear personally... but then that could be the tune somewhat as less ignition is flattening it off just enough for perfect traction by the sound of it.

Would make a good street car :D

Hey mate, nice results!

Could you post up pics of the turbo in your engine bay?? I have one of these on order and should be here in a week or two :D It would be great to see what it looks like

Hey mate

Heres some pics, its all i have at the moment, kinda hard to poke around in the bay with a camera trying to get decent pics, but if you need anymore p.m me and ill try ad get some.

I dont have the turbo heat sheild installed in these pics, i took if off so the tuner coul play around with the acuator a bit.

100_2088.jpg

100_2089.jpg

100_2090.jpg

DSC_1508.jpg

DSC_1514.jpg

DSC_1515.jpg

DSC_1517.jpg

DSC_1518.jpg

DSC_1519.jpg

DSC_1527.jpg

Cheers for the comments guys :P, really happy with the car.

Edited by nizmo_freek

great power figure, do u mind giving us the ball park figure of total cost. boost does hold nicely n i'm sure u great a mixture of great power along with good responce! nice streetable r33!! hame

great power figure, do u mind giving us the ball park figure of total cost. boost does hold nicely n i'm sure u great a mixture of great power along with good responce! nice streetable r33!! hame

Do you mean a price for just the turbo kit? or everything like turbo, injectors, afm, intercooler, clutch, exhaust etc etc??

both! :)

Im looking at a very similar setup and would love to know what sort of price ill come in at.

Cheers

Turbo kit was around $4000nzd, which is alot cheaper than other places are selling them for (i have seen gt-rs kits sell for over 4g), then add atleast 6g nzd for all the supporting mods, thats exhaust, cooler, fuel system, ignition, clutch, etc etc, i could have done it alot cheaper by using cheaper parts, like custom steel exhaust, cheap chinese cooler, cheap fuel pump, etc etc, but i chose to spend a bit extra and get things that fit perfect and have been proven plenty of times to work, it could be done alot cheaper if you wanted though.

:thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The 1000ccs are side feeds but they're not currently installed, had my old factory ones in for leak testing purposes, only decided on them because front facing plenums and good top feed rail kits are out of my budget at the moment, are they really that problematic? Had a set of yellow jackets that lasted me 5 years, no real issues, only replaced them chasing this misfire issue that ended up not being ignition related 😄  
    • Are those 1000cc side feeds? If so, that's part of your problem. I have 1480cc and they idle at stoich on 98RON, and all the way to E85. Also your coil packs.....
    • Update for the sake of closure   Ended up getting the intercooler piping all sorted, new plugs and yellow jacket coils, and she was idling mint until it warmed up while I was bleeding the cooling system. Found the misfire to be localised to cyl 3 by unplugging coilpacks, ran a compression test, that checked out, then decided to get a mate to check if that spark plug was firing out of the motor. Upon cranking it over, with the injectors disconnected, the car actually fired and ran on a couple cylinders and heaps of fuel came out the top of cyl 3 I'd say that injector's either spraying incorrectly or spraying far too much, which is fine as I'm planning on replacing them anyway I'm planning on making about 250kW on flex fuel, and have a set of 1000cc injectors from ozautosport, obviously overkill but I'm planning on building the motor and running more boost further down the line, do you reckon they'd be too big for a smooth idle on 98? Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated
    • I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
×
×
  • Create New...