Jump to content
SAU Community

Boost Control Issues

adam87

By adam87,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

adam87 Community Regular

adam87

Posted
Posted

hey

cars been on the dyno yesterday and today. all was going well until he decided to put more boost in it. he cant seem to control the boost with the ebc. he said there is just too much air running through at the same time. the most boost he can get out of it is a quick spike to 8psi when using the actuator. he reckons that with a bleed valve it would do the same thing again due to the larger capacity of the engine. it will hold a consistant 5psi.

has any one else had this issue?

is there away to overcome this?

he has tuned it plenty rich enough for me to take it to about 15psi/280hp so i can try and get my ebc to work

could i try adapting a stiffer actuator onto it or what? i think the problem is the actuator is just too soft and no matter how much control the ebc has the actuator is still going to open

the engine is an rb25 with a hypegear tr43 turbo and a gizzmo ibc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210043-boost-control-issues/
Share on other sites
adam87 Community Regular

adam87

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
sounds like a lazy actuator that is staying open, if you bypass the boost controller and just run the car off the actuator is the turbo really slow to spool up?

yeh it is. but its not to bad. i didnt get a printout of the dyno sheet cause im going back next week when its sorted.

the tuner also told me that i may need to put restrictors in my vac lines to the solenoid and after the solenoid as theres too much pressure for the ebc to deal with. he said it may fix it but wouldnt be ideal.

Edited by adam87
adam87 Community Regular

adam87

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Is the cat ok?

there is a distinct lack of cat;)

i have a 3" decat pipe. the exhaust is a 3" straight through to 4" pipe as the tip

i took the hose off the actuator and ran it like that to see if it built boost with no source for the actuator to operate and it did fine. iv moved my ebc solenoid much closer to the turbo now and will try it later today and then if it doesnt work ill try put some restrictors in the ebc lines and also try a bleed valve

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • eli995
      NPboosted manifold fitting purpose

      By eli995 · Posted

      Ok gotcha, so one post to fpr  another to bov  and I have the mishimoto boost controller and a link g4+ so I’d just have the tuner set it up properly. For the last two from plenum post throttle to  ecu/ boost controller, I know that I have a hose coming from the ecu that I was confused about so I assume that’s what connect to the boost controller from the ecu? And then the last is just from plenum to boost controller then to wastegate?
    • eli995
      NPboosted manifold fitting purpose

      By eli995 · Posted

    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it was just a quick electrical check, prime the oil and start her up Which, is not what happened. 1. Bloody seppo Aeropro battery holder. Not only was it too tall for the battery (which I'll forgive them for, I have another battery the same nominal size that is taller than Neil's one, but the bracket is a fixed height so the battery was spaced up) But the thing that really shits me is the hardware to hold it on requires a 7/32 Hex key. WTF. No-one will ever be able to remove or install the damn thing without a hex key they don't own 2. Kill switch no longer worked once the console was installed. Neil mentioned above he had to adjust the length but it no longer cleared the console once installed. Sorted. 3. Suspiciously, the brake light holders were hanging in the boot with no globes. Sure enough the stopper on the brake pedal was missing so they are always on unless the kill switch is activated. Will pick one up tomorrow (turns out 32 and 33 don't use the same stopper) 4. All that sorted, I turned on the kill switch, turned the key to ACC. Nothing. Turned it to IGN. Nothing. Checked some fuses and found the main IGN in the boot was missing which improved things once it was replaced. Now ECU and dash lights turn on with IGN but still no fuel pump. 5. Turned it to Start....ECU on, no fuel pump, no starter. Plus the voltage dropped straight to 9v.  I suspect the starter is f**ked but am going to have to work through it all and see what is happening, really looks like more than one issue. Does anyone have the R33 fuse box key with the circuit it sources from (eg BAT, ACC, IGN, SRT etc) and supplies? I can find a translated list showing Amps and circuit without supply circuit, and I can find supply circuit without Amps and target circuit.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      3rd time lucky, the AAC is now all plumbed up after getting some final fittings All set up under the plenum of maximum access
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so the weight has been bugging because it was really low. I did it again today and got a more believable answer at 1246 without driver And with a 93kg driver I'm pretty sure the car was still slightly on the quickjack last time meaning the full weight was not on the scales  
×
×
  • Create New...